Need info to cast bullets

dhom

Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2011
Messages
86
Reaction score
28
A friend of mine has a Lee melting pot that doesn't have temps on it , only numbers. My question is what number should it be set on and what combo of lead, tin, and antimony do you use to get 15 to 18 BHN? Neither of us have ever casted bullets before.:eek:
 
Register to hide this ad
1 Buy and read the ABC's of Reloading (now in 9th ed.)

2 Buy and read the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook (now in 4th ed.)

3 Buy a lead melting pot thermometer such as this:
RCBS Lead Bullet Casting Thermometer - MidwayUSA

4 There are no set numbers to casting. It involves as much trial and error as reloading. I still feel like there is a certain amount of black magic, luck, voodoo, or pure chance involved as well.


EDIT - As a last second thought... I try to put either of my Lee melting pots on 6 or 7. However, some of my molds will only cast good bullets with some pretty hot lead so I go up to 8 -close to 9 sometimes. My new Mp-Mold will only cast good looking bullets when it is set close to 9. My Lee aluminum molds work fine when at 6 to 7. I don't own any iron molds. That is just an example of why I say there are no set numbers. You will find it is easier as you go along. Buy a Lee lead hardness test kit, use the thumb nail test, or buy the pencils for testing. Either way will still involve plenty of trial and error. What until you start trying to figure out what bullet lube to use...
5 Have fun!
 
Last edited:
casting

x2 on above advise.
i have always used straight wheel weights without any problem.
as far as the pot temp. i turn the pot all the way up to melt, the lead, and flux and clean the metal, and when melted and fluxed i start casting and do not turn the pot down untill the bullets start comming out a little frosty.
 
I run my Lee pot at between 3 1/2 and 5 depending on the alloy and the mold that I'm using. But they are not all calibrated the same so those settings probably won't work for you. A thermometer is a good idea but you can work without one. You want to run just hot enough that your bullets are getting complete fill out with sharp corners and no wrinkles. Lightly frosted is good but if it starts looking too frosted your mold is too hot. Straight wheel weight alloy is around 12-13 bhn and works well for a lot of handgun bullets. If you water quench the WW bullets they'll get much harder- to around 18 bhn. Lyman #2 alloy is about 15 bhn it is 90% lead/5% tin/ 5% antimony.

There are some great resources online in addition to the books mentioned:

Cast bullet reference on lead alloy's, min / max pressure, lube, shrinkage,

From Ingot to Target: A Cast Bullet Guide For Handgunners, Table of Contents - Fryxell/Applegate

Cast Boolits - Dedicated To The World Of Cast Bullets!
 
I set mine on seven and it turns out wonderful bullets once the mould is warmed up enough. My BHN runs about 12 with most of my alloys. Your Mileage WILL most likely vary.
 
I run mine around the "7" setting.

For what it's worth, canning wax (parafin) works great as a fluxer. Just cut about a pea sized piece of the wax off, throw it in the pot and it will start to smoke then flame a little. After the flame, just skim the crud off the surface and commence molding.
 
I have two different Lee pots, one gets good and hot around 4, the other around 6-7. Your best bet is to get a good casting thermometer like the RCBS and figure out what you are going to melt. Wheel weights melt best at 700-750 degrees. Never rely on just those numbers because not all pots are the same.
 
I run mine on 10. I'm using a 6 cavity mold and I am adding fresh lead to the pot pretty frequently. As I get tired and slow down a bit, I may back off to 7-8. I'm using aluminum molds and they like to run hot. A little frosting on the bullet hurts nothing.

Straight clip on wheel weight metal, with maybe a pinch of linotype added, will get plenty hard for most uses if you water drop it. I cast like this for semi-autos that need a hard bullet for their shallow rifiling.
 
Last edited:
I run mine on 10. I'm using a 6 cavity mold and I am adding fresh lead to the pot pretty frequently. As I get tired and slow down a bit, I may back off to 7-8. I'm using aluminum molds and they like to run hot. A little frosting on the bullet hurts nothing.

If you tumble lube, I still like to think it helps hold lube... No idea if that's true or not but it sure sounds good. ;)
 
I've been casting for 50 years and believe VooDoo and magic are a major component in the process. I continually adjust my procedures to meet the mold. I start hot and adjust down as the mold heats. If the mold begins to have bullets stick, I keep a wet towel nearby to rest the mold and cool it. Finesse in gently responding to the particular mold, alloy, etc. come with practice. You will not learn it all in the first 50 years. Many thousands of bullets have dropped from my molds with wheelweight lead and a bit of tin, as needed.
 
as far as the pot temp. i turn the pot all the way up to melt, the lead, and flux and clean the metal, and when melted and fluxed i start casting and do not turn the pot down untill the bullets start comming out a little frosty.

That's the best advise. Many people attempt to cast bullets at lower temps than they should. The very best bullets are just below frosting temp. Which of course varies depending on the temperature of where you are casting.
 
Thanks guys, I really appreciate your responses.

Buy you a thermometer & cast at 700 degrees, +or- 25 degrees. 92% lead, 6% antimony, & 2% tin aircooled will give you the desired hardness.
 
With a full pot my 20 lb Lee set between 8 and 9 gives me around 725 F. With an 1/3 full pot the same setting gives me 865 F. A thermometer gives you uniformity which is a good thing for cast bullets.
 
Back
Top