Hi Guys, I hope this post is in the right place since it's my first one other than the introduction. I'm trying to decide on a revolver for use while hiking, camping, and on fishing trips. Aside from a .22 revolver if you were going to pick one revolver for all around woods use what would it be? I keep going back and forth between .357 and .44 so I would like to see what you guys would suggest. I would like to hear your choice, reasoning behind the choice, model number, barrel length, and pics are always a plus. Thanks for your time and if this subject has been covered before a hundred times I apologize. I tried the search but didn't find what I was looking for.
Need Revolver Suggestions.
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BCDWYO
Member
Welcome to the forum JMK. There are so many good choices that is hard to strongly recommend a specific model number over another. First it would be a S&W! I would not recommend starting with a 44 mag if you don't have a lot of revolver experience. The lighter 44s marketed for ease of carry are a handful to shoot. I would suggest a K-frame or L-frame .357 mag - most of us find them to be a nice balance. Nothing wrong with an N-frame .357 either, but the steel ones will be a little heavier. Some of the newer alloy N-frames, such as the Model 327PC are great for hiking (see my classified ad for a pic of one!!) The 327PC has been my exclusive hiking gun for several years and I've been really happy with it for that function...not a bad shooter either!
Mule88
Member
If im not actively hunting and going to be more carry less shooting situation ive been carrying the 329 with220-250 cast at around 1000 fps. The light weight makes is hardly noticable during the day.
David Sinko
Member
Just stick with whatever you have and PRACTICE.
Dave Sinko
Dave Sinko
BobR1
Member
I tend to carry something that will shoot a 38 Special in the woods. That could be either a 38 or 357 Magnum.
For a barrel length 4" is a good all round number. Long enough to be fairly accurate, but short enough to not be a pain to carry.
Finish: Blued or Stainless not a real issue.
Sights: Fixed or Adjustable, again not a real big deal.
This would be what I call a buming around gun. This time of year I will have it loaded with 2 shotshells, and the remainder will be my 158 grain reloads. I have copperheads, cottonmouths, and some rattlers where I live. St Peter gives Bonus Points at the Pearly Gates for every poison snake you get rid of. Considering that you live next door you probably have the same snakes to deal with. Then one can run into a grow operation or a meth lab when in the woods hiking. I have ran into Pot Plants 3 times over the years. No incidents, but being armed makes you feel a little better.
GUN LIST: I would look for a 4 Inch Barrel Model 10/64, 13/65, 15/67, 19/66 581/681, or 586/686. Any of these revolvers will work fine. The First number is the Blued Version, the Second Number is the SS Version. The above listed guns have all been Police Service Revolvers at one time. All have a great track record for reliability and accuracy.
You can find other revolvers that will work well. The ones on the list are the Smith & Wesson meat & potatoes revolvers.
If one strays a little a Ruger Security Six, Speed Six, GP100, or SP101 will also work just fine. Ruger also makes a great single action revolver. I have no problems owning and recommending a Ruger, infact I own 4 of them.
Holsters: I normally carry in an open top pancake. When I go buming around in the woods, I will then go with either a holster like a Bianchi #5, or a Pancake with a Thumb Break.
I like a thumb break on a woods holster for positive retention. Lobo also makes a Flap Holster, along with a #5 and a great Pancake. Ray will build it your way for about the same price as a mass produced commercial holster. He also makes a Speed Strip Carrier
Lobo Gun Leather - Home
Spare ammo: Buming around ammo carries nicely in a Speed Strip. Tuff Products sells all sizes. They have them for a 38/357 with round counts of 5, 6, 7, and 8 rounds. I will carry Top Off shotshells, and more solids in either a pocket or a belt pouch made to carry the speed strips when in the woods.
The reason for a 38 Special or 357 Magnum preference would be that a 38 Shotshell is the smallest that works well for snakes. I like my snakes DRT (Dead Right Their) and not getting away more unhappy that they were before we met. I have no confidence in 22 shotshells for snakes. The 38 Special has been getting the job done for 100 years on most things that need a good shooting.
That is about all the wisdom I have for this morning.
Bob
For a barrel length 4" is a good all round number. Long enough to be fairly accurate, but short enough to not be a pain to carry.
Finish: Blued or Stainless not a real issue.
Sights: Fixed or Adjustable, again not a real big deal.
This would be what I call a buming around gun. This time of year I will have it loaded with 2 shotshells, and the remainder will be my 158 grain reloads. I have copperheads, cottonmouths, and some rattlers where I live. St Peter gives Bonus Points at the Pearly Gates for every poison snake you get rid of. Considering that you live next door you probably have the same snakes to deal with. Then one can run into a grow operation or a meth lab when in the woods hiking. I have ran into Pot Plants 3 times over the years. No incidents, but being armed makes you feel a little better.
GUN LIST: I would look for a 4 Inch Barrel Model 10/64, 13/65, 15/67, 19/66 581/681, or 586/686. Any of these revolvers will work fine. The First number is the Blued Version, the Second Number is the SS Version. The above listed guns have all been Police Service Revolvers at one time. All have a great track record for reliability and accuracy.
You can find other revolvers that will work well. The ones on the list are the Smith & Wesson meat & potatoes revolvers.
If one strays a little a Ruger Security Six, Speed Six, GP100, or SP101 will also work just fine. Ruger also makes a great single action revolver. I have no problems owning and recommending a Ruger, infact I own 4 of them.
Holsters: I normally carry in an open top pancake. When I go buming around in the woods, I will then go with either a holster like a Bianchi #5, or a Pancake with a Thumb Break.
I like a thumb break on a woods holster for positive retention. Lobo also makes a Flap Holster, along with a #5 and a great Pancake. Ray will build it your way for about the same price as a mass produced commercial holster. He also makes a Speed Strip Carrier
Lobo Gun Leather - Home
Spare ammo: Buming around ammo carries nicely in a Speed Strip. Tuff Products sells all sizes. They have them for a 38/357 with round counts of 5, 6, 7, and 8 rounds. I will carry Top Off shotshells, and more solids in either a pocket or a belt pouch made to carry the speed strips when in the woods.
The reason for a 38 Special or 357 Magnum preference would be that a 38 Shotshell is the smallest that works well for snakes. I like my snakes DRT (Dead Right Their) and not getting away more unhappy that they were before we met. I have no confidence in 22 shotshells for snakes. The 38 Special has been getting the job done for 100 years on most things that need a good shooting.
That is about all the wisdom I have for this morning.
Bob
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Clean Break
Member
Stainless steel makes sense if you live where it rains and it can be a while between wipe-downs. I'm not sure why you are so quick to dismiss a .22 lr. I chose one as my first handgun and it has served me well as a hiking, camping and trail companion for almost thirty years. It also taught me about trigger control and allowed me to practice a lot because the rounds were so much cheaper than others (.22s = $18/500 rds.; .38 spl = $18/50 rds.; .44 mag. = $36/50 rds.). I think everyone should own a good .22. There is something very confidence inspiring when you can make a spent shotgun shell dance as far as you can throw it.
The heavier and bulkier a handgun, the less likely you'll want to carry it very much; they make better tailgate/range guns. I evolved from a 7.5" .44 down to a 4" and love it.
.22 WMR cost as much as .38s and are inferior, but they flash and bang more than .22 lrs. A good .38 is hard to beat. Clean Break.
The heavier and bulkier a handgun, the less likely you'll want to carry it very much; they make better tailgate/range guns. I evolved from a 7.5" .44 down to a 4" and love it.
.22 WMR cost as much as .38s and are inferior, but they flash and bang more than .22 lrs. A good .38 is hard to beat. Clean Break.
M3Stuart
Member
Welcome to the forum!
If you are starting out in revolvers, I would suggest going to a local shooting range and renting everything on the shelf and shooting a couple cylinders out of each one. - or at least out of each type, caliber, etc.
IMHO; The snubs take a lot of practice to be good. I'd stick to a 4" starting out. I would also recommend a steel revolver over an alloy one.
+1 on BobR's list above. You just can't go wrong with any he listed. I started with a 686 and ended up with these. They are all steel and either .22, .38 or .357. I've shot .44's but do not prefer them. I also prefer my revolvers to weigh less than 40oz, so I don't have any N frames. My favorites are the K's; 10/64/66. For woods carry I use the 2.5" 66, 4" 64, 4" 686, and either the 3" or 4" 10's you see below. They all work fine for that purpose. But then I'm not a very big guy and, personally, I think the .357 with 180gr hunting loads is adequate for anything.
If you are starting out in revolvers, I would suggest going to a local shooting range and renting everything on the shelf and shooting a couple cylinders out of each one. - or at least out of each type, caliber, etc.
IMHO; The snubs take a lot of practice to be good. I'd stick to a 4" starting out. I would also recommend a steel revolver over an alloy one.
+1 on BobR's list above. You just can't go wrong with any he listed. I started with a 686 and ended up with these. They are all steel and either .22, .38 or .357. I've shot .44's but do not prefer them. I also prefer my revolvers to weigh less than 40oz, so I don't have any N frames. My favorites are the K's; 10/64/66. For woods carry I use the 2.5" 66, 4" 64, 4" 686, and either the 3" or 4" 10's you see below. They all work fine for that purpose. But then I'm not a very big guy and, personally, I think the .357 with 180gr hunting loads is adequate for anything.
elm_creek_smith
US Veteran
Unless you are going into "b'ar country," you can't beat a 4"-6" stainless .357 Magnum for "woods" carry. You can load it with .38's for small game, .38 +P's for most defensive purposes if Magnums have too much recoil, or .357's for serious defense and medium game. K-frames carry easier than just about anything, but L-frames handle the hot 125 grain Magnum defensive ammo better and recoil less with every type of ammo.
For "b'ar country," it's tough to beat a 4 inch .44 Magnum with "b'ar loads," (300 grain JSP or LWFN).
With all that said, I usually carry a 4" S&W Model 10-5 loaded with Speer 135 grain .38 Special +P "Short Barrel" ammo when I walk in the woods.
ECS
For "b'ar country," it's tough to beat a 4 inch .44 Magnum with "b'ar loads," (300 grain JSP or LWFN).
With all that said, I usually carry a 4" S&W Model 10-5 loaded with Speer 135 grain .38 Special +P "Short Barrel" ammo when I walk in the woods.
ECS
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Hey Guys, Thanks for the replies. I'm familiar with revolvers and own a few, however I cut my teeth so to speak on the 1911 and Glocks. I'm just now starting to really get into revolvers and I currently have a model 19 in 4", 66 in 2 1/2", a Python in 6", 442, Colt D.S., and a model 360 is my constant companion off duty. I prefer a revolver for woods work for a lot of the reasons BobR listed. I suppose the 19 or 66 would work perfectly for what I'm looking for but I want to add another revolver to the stable. What do you think, would a 686 in 4" fill this role perfectly? Is the 44mag too much gun? I don't have a L or N frame in the stable so I may go that route.
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Also thought I'd mention what I may encounter in the mountains around here. Aside from the occasional meth head or cooker and marijuana crops there are the Rattlers (some of which are BIG!), Copperheads, Big Cats, and the Black Bears which are the biggest animal I should encounter. The Bears around here are usually good just to run the other way with a few loud claps of the hand but you never know, and I don't want to be lunch for one of them! Lol.
geoff40
Member
4 or 6" .357 Magnum. The Model 19 you already own is about perfect.
Invictus357
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If I was going camping, hiking, fishing...
hmmm
A shoulder holstered S&W 629 with a 4 inch barrel would be my first choice. Never know what's out there.
My second would be a 4" S&W 686 or Ruger GP100. A little lighter to carry than a 629, not much though.
My 3rd would be a pocket rocket like a J frame or Ruger LCR. For the times I want to go light.
hmmm
A shoulder holstered S&W 629 with a 4 inch barrel would be my first choice. Never know what's out there.
My second would be a 4" S&W 686 or Ruger GP100. A little lighter to carry than a 629, not much though.
My 3rd would be a pocket rocket like a J frame or Ruger LCR. For the times I want to go light.
If you keep going in between 357 and 44 just do 10mm or 41 mag
+1 what Bob said. There are great deals right now on 10s and 64s.
For example, this is my $210 ex-Ohio prison gun:
There are very few places that I would feel under-gunned carrying it (big bear country excepted, naturally!)
I go to the woods a lot. If the Black Bear is your biggest game go with a good .44 magnum 4" (I prefer the 5 or 6 inch). It's wayyyyyy better to have too much gun then not enough. Remember if you need to use it on a (charging) bear you may get one shot so make it count. The 629's are six shooters you can carry extra rounds but in a Bear/Cougar situation you won't have time to reload. You may never need it, but it's better to have it and not need it then need it and not have it. I use a chest holster, makes it real easy to get too, it's not in the way and carries real well. BTW when I'm in Brown/Grizzly Bear area while fishing.....I carry the SW500 magnum 6.5" with hot 440gr. hard cast bullets. If I shoot I wanna shoot once!!! Well hopefully.
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If we had the opportunity, most of us would buy one of each caliber, in several barrel lengths. One thing on which most would agree, however, is that 4" is about right for manageability. Anything longer belongs in a shoulder holster or western or duty type with a drop. If you hunt, some jurisdictions require a 6" barrel, which is another consideration.
West of the Missouri, or in bear country of any color, a .44 Mag is probably the best choice for camping and hiking (or a 45-70 scout carbine). A 4" Mountain Gun weighs about 40 oz, which is heavy enough to manage recoil without lasting pain and light enough for all-day carry in a good pancake holster. It's a bit much for CCW, but OK with .44 special loaded to .45 ACP ballistics. Factory ammo is expensive, but you can reload for the same cost as reloading .45 ACP, and you don't have to sweep up the brass.
That said, I really like .357 magnum, and have a 4" and 3" 686 in that caliber, which weigh about 4 oz less than the corresponding .44 Mag. I don't feel the need for "light" or .38 SPL loads for self defense. I can handle any full load in that caliber with ease, and I don't have to ream carbon out of the cylinders after a session to make the longer cartridges fit again.
West of the Missouri, or in bear country of any color, a .44 Mag is probably the best choice for camping and hiking (or a 45-70 scout carbine). A 4" Mountain Gun weighs about 40 oz, which is heavy enough to manage recoil without lasting pain and light enough for all-day carry in a good pancake holster. It's a bit much for CCW, but OK with .44 special loaded to .45 ACP ballistics. Factory ammo is expensive, but you can reload for the same cost as reloading .45 ACP, and you don't have to sweep up the brass.
That said, I really like .357 magnum, and have a 4" and 3" 686 in that caliber, which weigh about 4 oz less than the corresponding .44 Mag. I don't feel the need for "light" or .38 SPL loads for self defense. I can handle any full load in that caliber with ease, and I don't have to ream carbon out of the cylinders after a session to make the longer cartridges fit again.
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Meeteetse
Member
I may have tried them all over the last 45+ years and my conclusion is this; a heavy loaded .44 or .45 in bear country and a .357 in fish country. Either will do the job on two legged critters or snakes with the correct load. Try a few if you can and pick the one you shoot the best and carry the most without leaving it at home. I prefer 4" guns of any caliber, and by the way, I usually have a small frame .22 stashed away in my pack somewhere. It is still the best for rabbits and such for filling the dinner pot.
Clean Break
Member
Like Samuel L. Jackson says in "Pulp Fiction" "... that's all you had to say!"
You already have the .38 spl//.357 covered in a few guns, so yeah, get a 4" .44 mag. 629. They are a joy to shoot and practice a lot with in .44 spl and that round is a BIG increase in power over a .38. The longer .44 magnum is a whole 'nuther world-o-fun! Black bears and cougars attack and kill far more people than grizzlies. The inertia, frontal area, penetration and total kinetic energy of a .44 magnum is considerable. A 4" 629 is very packable at 41 oz. I like my Bianchi #111 Cyclone holster because it fits close and is designed to be worn either cross-draw or strong side. When I am carrying a long gun I like to go crossdraw so that the shotgun or rifle stock doesn't get marred up by the revolver's hammer. Clean Break
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