Need some help and advise

[Buffalohunter60]

I want to remove the front sight so I can mount a longer scope with no interference. I removed the flash supressor and punched out the pins and removed the front sight. Now nothing is holding the forearm and I am not sure how to remove it. I pulled back on the ring next to the reciever but still did not get the forearm off. I dont like to force things not knowing what I am doing and how to properly remove it. I want to replace it with a free floating forearm and install a sling on it. I know many of you have done this before...any advise will be appreciated. Thanks Also not sure what is the function of the small tube is that is pressed into the front sight?

 

[JBUS]

Try YouTube. There's ton of videos out there showing how to remove to FSP and replacing the old forend with a free float tube.

You will need a low profile gas block that will fit underneath whichever tube forend you are putting on there.

 

[Buffalohunter60]

I kind of thought thats what it does....so how do I get around removing the front sight....and still retain the tube that is pressed into the front sight (or pinned) ?

 

[Buffalohunter60]

Thanks...I will give that a try.

 

[oneyeopn]

ok to get the gas tube out you have to drive the little pin out of your front sight/gas block. also save the pin in case the new gas block doesnt come with one. As far as the hand guard it comes apart and is easier to remove one piece at a time. Pull the delta ring back and unsnap, there are little locating pins, it doesnt really snap together but it will feel like it and just pull one side at a time. if you have the retaining cap from behind the front sight off it should be easier. also the gas tube sticks straight into the upper and there is nothing holding it in place on the upper it just slides through a hole. When you put it back in place make sure it is centered and level. You can check by putting your charging handle and BCG in place and make sure it seats and comes back easily.

 

[Buffalohunter60]

Hi Grover, I got the hand guard off like you say. I guess I need to order the low profile gas block and a free float hand guard...any recommendations on what product to use? Now I see how this thing works it makes it a lot easier and I can see how the gas gets from the barrel back through the tube. Gives me something to do LOL

 

[oneyeopn]

John...free float handguards there are so many out there that you really want to look at what you are wanting out of them. There are some that require you to purchase the AR wrench and vise blocks and there are some that use the Larue system of bolting through the barrel nut. Both of mine required changing the barrel nut but from what I have seen the ones that bolt through the barrel nut are really good. I am partial to Nordic because they are slimmer and have attachment points for sling swivels and rails although I do not have a rail on it. there are some really nice ones out there and some of the other people in the forum can help you with the decision once you decide what you want out of it. I would recommend the Yankee Hill Micro Gas block but there are also a bunch of different gas blocks but to go underneath a handguard you will want one without a rail. Also with the Yankee Hill Micro you can put whatever length of handguard on that you want. Nordic and JP (from the same websight)
Hand Guards
I think are nice, I am running the NC1 rifle length on my Sport. Some of those JP Ent. V-Tac handguards look pretty nice also. If I had it to do again I would probably go with the Nordic XL, 15.5" long for $99.00.

 

[JBUS]

VTAC or DD or LaRue.

I went with a Centurion Arms carbine cutout

 

[Buffalohunter60]

Hi all, I got ansey and jumped on the MC and went to Rileys gun shop in Manchester...got a Danial Defence free float (12") it comes with the wrench and barrel nut.....also got the low profile gas block....anyway....by the time I left there I had spent $339.00 but that should do it and now I will be able to mount the Nitrex scope...and see what I can do with it....I hope to tackle that tomorrow morning. I will send pics when It is assembled...then sight it in a have some fun!! On the way home stopped by my buddies house and his son got a deer today (1st day of muzzel loading) so I helped cut it up and got back home 11PM and it was a cool ride at 39 degrees.

 

[Buffalohunter60]

Another question.....I got a spanner wrench with the DF handgard but have no wrench to remove the barrel nut. Do you use a special wrench or use a punch and hammer to remove it if I do not plan on using it again?

 

[oneyeopn]

it is under a bit of torque and in order to tighten it properly you need to be able to put it into a vise. You can remove it with a punch and hammer but it is going to be a pain until you get it moving. If you dont have vise blocks for an AR upper, I would recommend leaving the BCG and charging handle in the upper. putting it sideways with the ejection port pointing up and using a block of wood between the flattop and the vise jaw and the bottom and the vise jaw, being careful to not clamp it too hard or on the takedown pin blocks so that you dont deform your upper. it can be done but be careful. My vise blocks one pins to the bottom side through the takedown pin blocks and the other attaches to the vise jaw with magnets and sets flat against the top. Also take your BCG and charging handle out before you fully remove the barrel nut.

 

[oneyeopn]

When you go to put it together you must make sure that the hole for the gas tube is aligned and clear and the barrel nut must be tight. once you tighten it, if the hole is not aligned do not loosen to align, carefully tighten a little more to make sure it is aligned. You can stick a pin punch, screwdriver or drill bit the same size as the gas tube through the hole to check.

 

[Buffalohunter60]

Grover, you have been a wealth of information...it went slick as a button and I was careful baout squeezing the upper....the wood worked great. Now to reassemble it. I did not realize the barrel was not threader into the reciever...I thought the "retaining nut" was a lock nut so I was trying to hold the barrel and loosen the nut...which does not work...now I can see how it is designed and it makes sence to me now. You are been a great help my friend. thanks again.
The new nut has a spanner wrench and a torque figure to torque ti to and I do have a torque wrench...it should be duck soup now LOL.

 

[Buffalohunter60]

Ready to step out back and sight it in....put the Nitrex 6-20 on it and see if I can do any better with this scope. thanks everyone for the help...its appreciated...between all the u-tube and Grover, I got it done.
John

 

[oneyeopn]

John...absolutely sweet, I like it!!! and you will like the bigger scope, I forgot how accurate I could be until I put the 8-32 back on mine.

 

[Buffalohunter60]

Hi Grover, i got it sighted in at 115 yds but my groups are about the same. Its pretty windy out and the sun was in the wrong position in the afternoon...early morning is best for my range for wind and sun. I am goin g to try it again tomorrow...put 40 rounds through it today but I am not happy with my groups yet.....I am going to NZ for 6 months dec 11th....maybe I should send this out to you before I go and see what you can do with it.......you could play with it for 6 months anyway. I did not use a sling today but thought I had a decent rest. I notic ed the barrel to reciever fit has a little play in it...I do not know the allowable tolerances and weather that would make any difference once the retaining nut is torqued? What I like about the scope is...I do not need my spotting scope to see the bullet holes. Is your scope pretty sensitive to eye position at 32 power?

 

[oneyeopn]

John my scope has a good solid eye relief that stays the same no matter what power I have it on. the big question is what ammo are you using. There also should be no play between the barrel and the upper receiver, if there is play then you need to remove your handguard and tighten the barrel nut up some more. Some rifles have a little play between the uppers and lowers but that should not effect accuracy. Did you sight it in @ 50 yards at high power. The way I do it is to start sighting at the lowest power @ 50 yards. when you get it as tight a group as you can then crank it up to the highest power. At this point you should be able to adjust to finalize your sighting in. Once you move out to 100 or so you should be shooting apprx 1.2+/-" high again depending upon the ballistics of your ammo. You may also have to adjust the occular lens for your vision. I do have to adjust the occular lenses (closest to the eye) to get my eye relief set in. another thing is to pull the rifle up to the shooting position and move your face toward the scope or away from the scope till you get the proper eye relief and then see if you need to reposition the scope for the way you shoot. If you need PM me and we will walk through some of this.
p.s. my scope sits further back than yours does.

 

[Maddmax]

There also should be no play between the barrel and the upper receiver, if there is play then you need to remove your handguard and tighten the barrel nut up some more. Some rifles have a little play between the uppers and lowers but that should not effect accuracy. .

Not to but in. Does that barrel & nut have a compression washer (I think that's the name),like the 15-22's and needs to be replaced everytime you remove it ?

 

[Buffalohunter60]

No, it does not have a compression washer. The barrel is a slip fit into the reciever with an allingment pin and the retaining nut secures it.
Grover, on sigthing in...I put it at 115 yards and then I shoot each corner of the target and see if I hit paper (third shot hit) then I can adjust from there and its pretty quick. I am going to go out this morning and shoot another target and see what happens. The muffs are a bit of a pain as I get better position without them but I absolutely need them to preserve what little hearing I have left LOL. I will leave it on 20 power...its cold out today. I used a drill to align the gas tube in the gas block and pushed it out with the roll pin, that worked well to align it. I have all the number drills so its easy to get one that fits with no slop.I have the barrel good and tight and no play there...the only play was before I tightened the nut but it was not bad....could have been a little closer fit but I do not think that is having any affect on the accuracy. I am probably the weak link but I will keep at it and maybe try some other rifles and see how I am doing.
John

 

[Buffalohunter60]

This was the first target this morning from a cold barrel. First round was low at 6 oclock then the next four were ok. I had a good rest, no wind and overcast sky...perfect conditions. Scope was crystal clear and I was steady and looked good each time the rounds went off. I will post the next target.

This was all over the place and I know I was shooting much better than this...the rest was rock steady and good sight picture when the rounds went off. I also notices it was throwing the brass all over the place....some stright out perpendicular to the rifle position and some about a 45 degree angle behind me. Not sure what to do. The ammo is Federal 5.56 55 gr. and I know it will shoot better than this. It seems like it starts opening the groups as soon as it starts to warm up. I wonder if I heated it up and then torqued it to 50 ft/lbs if that would cure the problem? The instructions said to torque the retainer nut to 50 ft/lbs and I did.....but I am wondering if a warm barrel is causing any change at all and not sure about the tolerance in the barrel to reciever fit. I know I can shoot better than the second target and you know when your on or off when the round goes off. It has me stumped right now but there has to be a reason its doing this.