New 340PD Quality control issue - Bought yesterday

[akular]

Hi everyone,

I just purchased a new 340PD yesterday. It cost me over 1100 USD. While cleaning the weapon after taking it home, I realized that the quality of craftmanship was sub-par compared to other firearms that I have owned in the past. Never had such issues with my Sigs.

I noticed such sloppy workmanship that the plate below the barrel wasn't even aligned when it was put together. Should I just accept this level of care taken when putting together the firearm? Or should I now spend the money to ship it back to the manufacturer to try and correct this issue? Is it worth it? I just didn't expect this from Smith and Wesson.. or is their normal level of QC? ..especially for their higher end revolvers. Please see photos for reference. What would you do in my situation?

Thx u,
Andy

 

[Lonestar57]

If it were me, I'd just tap it back center using a rawhide or plastic hammer and a brass punch. If it's loose, you'll need to send it back. But, yeah things can get overlooked on any production item, especially these days. And I know it can be very frustrating. I recently bought a brand new John Deere tractor and found loose bolts, missing parts, and misaligned parts.

 

[akular]

Honestly, I don't feel like taking a hammer to my gun the day after I bought it. I guess I just needed to vent.. appreciate the words

This will probably be my first and last S&W purchase

 

[demkofour]

…

This will probably be my first and last S&W purchase

This is certainly not an unheard of situation with new production S&W pistols and revolvers…
It’s the reason why so many of us here on the Forum dedicate our time, energy, expertise, experience and resources on older Smiths!
Sorry for your frustration.

AND welcome from New York.

 

[s&wchad]

Phone S&W and explain the problem. They'll send you a shipping label, repair the gun and return it to you on their dime.

The stainless steel part that moved off center protects the aluminum frame from erosion/flame cutting when firing. Try pushing on it with something like a screwdriver handle and see it moves. I suspect yours is loose and needs to be addressed.

 

[lawandorder]

There are vintage S&Ws and new S&Ws.

Two entirely different products.

 

[Engine49guy]

There have been quite a few posts in the last few years of misaligned barrels, burrs on the muzzle rifling etc.
I'm not sure if there even is a QC dept anymore and that kinda makes sense, on the one hand you want to catch defects before they go out, on the other hand if you close QC it saves alot of money and the consumer becomes the QC inspector, with the SW warranty you can send it back and they usually fix it free, it does cost you time and aggravation.
Bottom line is you have to have a checklist and go through any new gun with a fine tooth comb because once you buy then it becomes your problem to deal with.

On a side note, my neighbor has a 340pd which is s very cool gun but I find firing full Magnum rounds a bit stout in my model 66 snub, Shooting them in a J frame airweight must be like lighting of a firecracker in your hand.

 

[akular]

Thx u

Thanks for the input guys I appreciate it. I will call S&W on monday and plan on sending the gun in.

On a side note, if you are a business that's been in existence for over 100 years, and your competitors are all able to produce quality product through a tried and true QC methodology ..AND be able to churn a hefty profit, you would think you would have gotten your **** together by now. It doesn't take three generations to figure it out.

This is beyond frustrating, but is what it is

Andy

 

[M29since14]

For heaven’s sake, just tap the silly thing into position and see if it stays there. If it doesn’t, send the gun back for repair. It won’t cost you anything other than your time.

Small defects in S&W revolvers are NOTHING new. I’ve been buying them for over fifty years now. I’ve sent back a few and fixed/adjusted a few myself. Back in “the good old days” there used to be quite a few S&W factory-trained revolver armorers around that could help you out sometimes. Sadly, those days are pretty much over. In that respect, I’m afraid we’ve lived through the golden age of the revolver.

I guess if a minor thing like this discourages you from buying S&W products, it’s your money, your choice. Unfortunately you may see similar issues elsewhere.

 

[akular]

Thanks my friend. I'm not about to go play gunsmith with my hammer. Ill be sending this in. I also have not experienced any such glaring issues that should have been caught upon a very generic inspection. Shame on me for not doing a more thorough visual and trusting in the S&W craftmanship. Also, based on a quick search through the forums, I'm not alone in my frustration

 

[22hipower]

Thanks my friend. I'm not about to go play gunsmith with my hammer. Ill be sending this in. I also have not experienced any such glaring issues that should have been caught upon a very generic inspection. Shame on me for not doing a more thorough visual and trusting in the S&W craftmanship. Also, based on a quick search through the forums, I'm not alone in my frustration

Send it in but we can only wonder why you wouldn't just tap the part a bit to see if it will go back in to the proper position as others have suggested. There are a lot of things to like about the 340PD although I wouldn't plunk down $1100 for a new one. My go to gun when I want the very lightest available with the biggest punch for the weight. Not a lot of fun at the range but really good for its intended purpose. Welcome to the Forum.

Jeff
SWCA #1457

 

[akular]

Thx Jeff

Will send it in .. just something im not comfortable manipulating especially when S&w should cover it. I dont mind the wait.. its not a range gun for me. There are a few other blemishes that im hoping smith also cleans up.

I purchased it for the light weight concealed carry ease. Wont be shooting magnums out of it.. probably standard 130 grain 38 specials.

Thx u for the warm welcome everyone.. not trying to be a pest so forgive the OCD. I like to treat my weapons like my cars.. in the best way possible. I wouldn't be wrenching on a new porsche..just like I wont be wrenching on my new gun. Ill let the manufacturer solve it

Thx again !
Andy

 

[TheTinMan]

Andy - can you go back to the seller and ask for a replacement? Perhaps they have an in-house gunsmith who could tap that plate with a hammer to see if they can locate it properly. I’d do that before going to S&W.

The sad fact is that most manufacturers have cut costs by reducing quality control. I am convinced that firearms manufacturers in particular have figured out that a significant percentage of their products will never be fired and many buyers do not even know how to do a cursory inspection. In that market, why bother making sure every gun is 100%? Kimber’s “you have to fire 500 rounds to break it in” is total BS but they sell a LOT of 1911s. When I bought a KelTec PF-9 many years ago, the salesman told me that a few were lemons but KelTec would take care of it. Sure enough mine was a jam-o-matic. Gun store sent it back and KelTec returned it in 10 days. According to the sheet enclosed they kept the serialized frame and replaced pretty much everything else. That was expensive for KelTec especially with a $300 gun, but if they only had to do it for 1 in 10 jam-o-matics the cost numbers probably worked out.

 

[akular]

Thx u

I appreciate your thoughts, and everyone's advice. I just hold myself to a higher standard perhaps when Im purchasing a new item. I have yet to purchase the ammunition for the firearm, and have yet to fire it. Here is how it was presented to me as brand new. I have attached a series of other photos that perhaps Im just being overly anal about, but feel should be addressed.

1 . Titanium barrel already has a blemishes and has a clear ring around it. I understand that this is inevitable, but Id like to be the one making the marks on the gun. When new, Id expect new. I wouldnt buy a new car with scratches all over it...same goes for my firearm. I know the gun is test fired at S&W, but would love to get educated if this ring around the barrel is acceptable when purchasing new

2. There is some sort of "glue" that for the life of me I cannot take off of the sights on the gun. I have tried everything but stabbing it with a modeling knife to try and take it off.

3. The original issue of the plate that has already been discussed.

Am I expecting far too much here? Never had these issues with my other firearms. Ive also watched a ton of youtube videos for people that own titanium cylinders, and have carefully preventing weathering on them .

Again, please forgive my lack of education on this, or the fact that I may just be asking for too much here. If thats the case, I apologize

Thx u
Andy

 

[demkofour]

Andy,
What you refer to as the Titanium “barrel” is of course the Titanium “cylinder” and the ring is the expected drag line.
That’s totally normal on a Smith & Wesson revolver, and expected with normal dry and live firing. It shows more on matte finished cylinders than on smoother polished or blued cylinders, but eventually shows.
As far as the smegma on the front sight post- anyones guess. It should not be there in my opinion on a $1000+ investment.
Have the Mothership address your concerns- you are the consumer/customer and the last I looked, in the retail business “the customer is always right…”

 

[akular]

Thx u JD. You are correct.. the titanium cylinder. I will be sending it in monday. I appreciate everyone's input!

Andy

 

[Old cop]

Got my 340PD about 10 yrs ago and have been very happy w/it, but maybe I was just lucky.

 

[Charlie Foxtrot]

I’m glad you are sending the revolver back to S&W. The gun has a warranty, and you could void the warranty if you attempt any repairs. I agree with you that the gun should have come from the factory without any defect. You should make a thorough inspection of the revolver and list each and every concern in your cover letter that is sent with the revolver to the factory.

Here’s a link to S&W’s warranty:
Website

As an aside, I took a look at the 340PD after they had been out for about one year. Dry fired to check function and trigger in the store. Pulled the trigger slowly, and it got stuck about 7/8ths to the rear. I handed the gun back to the salesman, and he got another one from the back. The second gun was still in the box when he brought it out. I tried the trigger, and again, it stuck about 7/8ths of the way to the rear. Needless to say, I didn’t purchase one.

 

[joebuck]

It's a tool and a damn good one. You spent a bunch of money for it so get it like you want it. Personally, I would just tap the flame shield with a nylon or brass hammer or punch and call it a day and shoot the hell out of it. It's the best citizen available concealed carry weapon ever. 11.5 oz and can shoot full power .357. If it works forget the cosmetics. It's not for show. Nobody cares if you have a pretty pocket gun. Never brush the front of the Ti cylinder with anything but a toothbrush and non-ammonia cleaner like Hoppe's Elite. Enjoy.

 

[scruffy]

I had the same issue with the blast shield on a 360PD. Tapped it in place and it would loosen and move left again after range practice. I took a small screwdriver blade and applying very slight pressure, pressed the two outside bottom corners downward a few thousandths and it never shifted again. If you look at the pictures it's self explanatory.

I sold after a while as I never shot .357 magnum out it after firing a few with them. A 642/637 will do the same job with .38+P adding a fraction of an ounce more weight at a fraction of the price.