New 360, 357 & bobbing hammer questions...

Eagle1*

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guys, I was checking out my local FFL yesterday and they had the new 360, 357 magnum. They had $526.00 on it and they offered it up for $485.00 plus tax. Needless to say I went for it as the gun has the stainless cylinder and the trigger was pretty good for a smith factory trigger compared to most.

Now, my next question is if I bob the hammer, will it do anything to the reliability of the gun and if I do go ahead and do it myself, how far back is a good place to cut? I have attached pics with some tape to where I think I am going to go for. So what say you folks, do it myself and does the place I have marked seem like a good spot to cut and reshape? Thanks S...


btw, I will have new hogues coming for my 442 tomorrow
 

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pics of hammer for you guys...
 

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How are you going to cut and reshape it, sir? I have the .38 version of this & im saving my SBUX money for a .357 like yours ... Less expensive entry into the scandium world ... :(
 
I am going to dremel it off then shape it with a file then coat it with some cobolt blue. A little time consuming but should not be an issue. If it gets too messed up, I can always buy a new hammer for it at a reasonable cost. To me the replacement cost is worth me trying it myself.

Also, I know the description on the S&W website says scandium but it is not larked as so anywhere on my frame. Plus it weights 14.9 oz empty so I am not so sure it is unless the all stainless non fluted cylinder is making up some of the extra weight to it. Either way I bought it because I can change the sight to an XS and the stainless cylinder, plus if I ever get the b**** to shoot some 357 in it, I can..
 
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In general, J frames have pretty strong coil mainsprings so the loss of the hammer spur mass shouldn’t affect ignition.
 
I bobbed a 360 a few years ago and it remained reliable. It’s on semi permanent loan to my stepfather but I was pleased with the bob. I highly recommend removing the hammer from the revolver before cutting if you hadn’t planned. Cut it with a wheel leaving plenty of metal and then get closer to the final product with a sanding barrel on the dremel before the polishing disk.
 
In general, J frames have pretty strong coil mainsprings so the loss of the hammer spur mass shouldn’t affect ignition.

Also, the energy of the "falling" hammer is determined by the spring constant. If the mainspring is not altered, the energy will not change by reducing the mass of the hammer. The energy will be in the form of higher velocity of the hammer, and less mass.

Best,
Rick
 
Smiths no problem I had Karl Sokol from CMS did one for me many years ago it was a 637 back in 2003. Sold it long time ago to a friend he has many rounds threw it No P. I think Karl removed the SA notch I can't rem but that has nothing to do with reliability. I think he was worried I would cock the gun then can not lower hammer safely if I did not shoot it he was covering his you no what good luck.
 
While I get the concept of the 442/642, as I own one.........and I also get the concept of the 638 as my wife owns one, I fail to see why you would want to bob the hammer on your 360 example.

It is already a rather minimally exposed hammer and one such that would be easy to draw from a pocket with your thumb on the hammer to prevent it from snagging.

That being said I am a firm believer in it being your property to do with as you please, but the trigger just doesn't look to be all that obtrusive to me on your example.

That is a good price for a .357 capable lightweight example. I paid $400 for my 442, and about the same for the wife's 638 several years ago. It seems the pricing on the .38spl Airweights have been coming down a bit from what I have seen at the last few gun shows around here......to the tune of $350 or so.

I too would have probably gave a .357 strength Airweight serious consideration at such a good price. Not that I would be shooting much full house .357 ammo from it, but maybe some 9mm'ish power loads from time to time...…..and especially for carry.

Dale
 
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tenntex, I wanted this gun for its compactness minus the hammer. Meaning I jog with a very small fanny pack and my 442 fits in it but I have a hard time zipping it in that humped back area. Hence the lower cut model I bought. If I get rid of the hammer, it will fit right in there for me and that is what I wanted and needed. The 357 capability is a plus too. That is why I want to get rid of the hammer, plus it will get caught on my clothes at some point and I will want it gone.
 
tenntex, I wanted this gun for its compactness minus the hammer. Meaning I jog with a very small fanny pack and my 442 fits in it but I have a hard time zipping it in that humped back area. Hence the lower cut model I bought. If I get rid of the hammer, it will fit right in there for me and that is what I wanted and needed. The 357 capability is a plus too. That is why I want to get rid of the hammer, plus it will get caught on my clothes at some point and I will want it gone.

Okie dokie, roger that. Be sure to let us know how things go with it.

Dale
 
I used a cut off tool fir the initial cut followed by a file then cold blue on my 360j. It’s trouble free.
 

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Diyj, did you remove trigger or do that with it in place? By the looks of the cut, it appears you did it still in the gun..
 
Well i did it. Removed the hammer and dremeled it off then used some flitz polish and cloth disc and smoothed it out. I could have done it longer but i was pressed for time. Put it back in and used the supper blue on it. Turned out good for me cause i'm gonna use the gun. Thanks for the help guys.
 

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My 360 has a bobbed hammer and I've no problems with ignition.
Now get yourself an XS standard dot front sight on it and it will be great.
I should probably spring for higher dollar grips on mine but the PGS hideouts are about as small as it gets and they don't stick to the pocket or clothing.
 
In general, J frames have pretty strong coil mainsprings so the loss of the hammer spur mass shouldn’t affect ignition.

Less mass will increase velocity and may actually improve ignition capability.

Adios,

Pizza Bob
 
Diyj, did you remove trigger or do that with it in place? By the looks of the cut, it appears you did it still in the gun..

I removed it form the gun. I didn't want to screw up and cut a grove in my frame with the cut off tool! I didn't want to removed too much metal and weaken the hammer excessively, but wanted it to where it wouldn't snag on my pockets.
 
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I bobbed my 37. Just held it to a bench grinder. Took my time until I got it where I wanted it. If I grasp it with my thumb and index finger I can cock it. It’s not easy but I can. Never had a problem firing any ammo.
 

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