New 625 JM problem

[PaulF1911]

Just bought a new 625 JM. I took it to the range for the first time today. After about 400 rounds the gun malfunctioned.

I could not close the cylender after I reloaded. So I took the moon clip out and tried another. Even thought they both looked fine. When I put the new moon clip in, I checked for proper seating and attempted to close the cylender using a little more force. The cylender closed but it locked up the gun. I could not pull the hammer back in single action or pull the trigger in double action. I also tried locking and unlocking the internal lock. Nothing worked.

At this point I could not even open the cylender back up without really using a lot of force. The cylender release spring is now working backward. In other words the spring pushes backward not toward the cylender .

With this limited information, does anyone have any thoughts on what might have happened?

 

[Stainz]

It could be something as simple as either a loosened ejector rod or crud under the ejector star. If it's the former - and the closed cylinder is still loaded - be very careful! Sometimes there is no other choice. Lay the revolver on a rag with it's muzzle pointed in a safe direction, ie, not towards anything with a heartbeat - but something that would stop a round, should it actually discharge. Try to turn the left-hand threaded knurled end of the ejector rod in by turning the ejector rod counterclockwise when viewed from the muzzle. Try your thumbnail first - if that won't work, carefully use the flat edge of a small flat screwdriver to engage the knurling. You want to move the knurling from the left side of the frame from bottom to top. Often a few degrees will make the difference. If it moves - and you can easily open the cylinder and remove the live rounds. Replace the rounds with at least three empty cases in a moonclip and carefully load same into the cylinder. If the ejector rod, and recall that it is a LH thread, ie, tightens CCW from the front(muzzle) end, is loose - count yourself lucky and tighten that rod carefully. Some slipjoint pliers over the knurled end of the rod, wrapped in some cloth wipes, should help snug it up. Spin the cylinder while watching the rod's end for any wobble - which would mean a bent rod and would necessitate a replacement.

If that doesn't help - check under the ejector star for any crud. Even a cotton swipe's thread - or copper wire brush bristle - wrapped around the rod/star juncture, can lock it up. Clean carefully. Good luck!

Stainz

PS Choice three - send it to S&W!

 

[Stainz]

I have never had this particular problem with factory made clad/jacketed ammo - but my early homebrews - and some small factory reloaded lead projectiles have, at times, not permitted the loaded moonclip to 'drop in', ie, they have stuck not fully seated. With my homebrews, shaved lead often remained - a final 'factory' re-resizer station was installed in my reloading press - problem fixed.

If you drop a .45 ACP round in a modern 25/325/625/Governor cylinder, it should all but sink into the chamber (It'll disappear into the Governor's chambers!). Without re-resizing, a loading bulge can halt said fall. Check your ammo's fit in your cylinder - after removal from your revolver. Or... try a caliber specific gage for go/no go - on all of your ammo. You may be shocked!

Stainz

 

[BlueOvalBandit]

I had a reloading snafu show its ugly head in a classifier. 1 round in the 6 had a bulge I didn't catch and when it didn't drop in I tried to force the cylinder closed. Big mistake, it didn't close and the moonclip wouldn't eject. I had to smack the ejector rod so had I put a good gouge in my hand and bled all over the place.

Moral if it doesn't fit don't force it, investigate, especially with reloads and after 400 rounds I would expect under the ejector star to be dirty.

 

[PaulF1911]

It could be something as simple as either a loosened ejector rod or crud under the ejector star. If it's the former - and the closed cylinder is still loaded - be very careful! Sometimes there is no other choice. Lay the revolver on a rag with it's muzzle pointed in a safe direction, ie, not towards anything with a heartbeat - but something that would stop a round, should it actually discharge. Try to turn the left-hand threaded knurled end of the ejector rod in by turning the ejector rod counterclockwise when viewed from the muzzle. Try your thumbnail first - if that won't work, carefully use the flat edge of a small flat screwdriver to engage the knurling. You want to move the knurling from the left side of the frame from bottom to top. Often a few degrees will make the difference. If it moves - and you can easily open the cylinder and remove the live rounds. Replace the rounds with at least three empty cases in a moonclip and carefully load same into the cylinder. If the ejector rod, and recall that it is a LH thread, ie, tightens CCW from the front(muzzle) end, is loose - count yourself lucky and tighten that rod carefully. Some slipjoint pliers over the knurled end of the rod, wrapped in some cloth wipes, should help snug it up. Spin the cylinder while watching the rod's end for any wobble - which would mean a bent rod and would necessitate a replacement.

If that doesn't help - check under the ejector star for any crud. Even a cotton swipe's thread - or copper wire brush bristle - wrapped around the rod/star juncture, can lock it up. Clean carefully. Good luck!

Stainz

PS Choice three - send it to S&W!

Stainz,

You've got to be kidding me!!! I read your reply and thought.....
"there is no way this could be and ejector rod problem" "maybe Stainz just doesn't understand what I mean or perhaps I did not explain myself very well"

That being said...... Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!! You were 100% right on both the problem and the fix! The ejector rod was loose! Also thanks for telling me it was a left handed thread! You have saved me a lot of aggrevation, time, and energy!!

You, and people like you, make this forum an outstanding source of information!!!! Thanks again Stainz!!!

 

[TSQUARED]

A lesson learned!
The cylinder closes without virtually any force. If force is required STOP!!!

 

[OK Hog Shooter]

A lesson learned!
The cylinder closes without virtually any force. If force is required STOP!!!

FWIW... I had a similar issue on a K-22. The ejector rod had indeed worked loose. It took some forum research on other revolvers to find the culprit. When I read the OP that was the first thing that came to mind. Who says you can't teach an old hog a new trick!

 

[deanodog]

I had some problems with reloads seating properly in my 45ACP revolvers until I started using a Lee factory crimp die and I have had no more problems....Just sayin...

 

[PaulF1911]

A lesson learned!
The cylinder closes without virtually any force. If force is required STOP!!!

So very true! I should have known better! I do now!
BTW..... All 400 rounds were factory Federals. I'm lucky I did not damage the gun by forcing the cylender in, or out for that matter.

I'm somewhat embarrassed that it was such a simple problem!

 

[627 city hunter]

I thought what stainz said would be correct. Had the same thing happen on my 627 pro a few months back. I was totally befuddled; however the gun was not loaded.

As maintenance free as revolvers seem, everything must be correctly tightened for the "clock to tell time." Make sense?

 

[kennyb]

i would add...brownells sells a tool to safely tighten the ejector rod

 

[mikeydio]

To add to what kennyb said about using the right tool from Brownells - do not get too heavy handed when tightening the ejector rod. If you crank it too tight you can induce runout into the ejector rod, which will in turn cause your cylinder to bind when rotated. I have a fixture with a dial indicator to detect and correct ejector rod runout. But if it is too bad, you are better off replacing it with a new one. I have seen NIB factory S&Ws come with runout induced from the factory, so it is not always the end user.

Mike

 

[Stainz]

Glad it helped! Remember the area under the ejector star. I snug the rods to finger tight and check it frequently. Always use some spent cases to provide an even bearing surface to twist against.

I must restate that 'under the ejector star' caution - especially with the moonclipped cartridges. Murphy's Laws are exacting - and unforgiving. If you get a loose cotton swipe thread - or brass brush bristle - it will find it's way under that star. Symptoms start with odd ftf's - even with Federal primers. It gets worse... recall that Murphy was an optimist!

Stainz

 

[NavyFrank]

Smith & Wesson revolver problems

Stainz right. Good catch. I have found that most revolver problems go back to loose ejector rods or backed out main spring strain screws. Recent 627 Pro purchase had the same problem.

 

[PaulF1911]

Thanks to everyone for all the very helpful replies!
I'll be going to Brownells to check out that tool!
Thanks again!!!