New guy, 686 price question (PICS) Update: Got the gun!!! Updated PICS

[JAVO]

Hey guys, new guy here, been around the boards lurking for a while but not "officially" hehehe Looking forward to learn and pass along what i know.

So, when it comes to autoloaders i know my stuff, but wheelguns are simply uncharted terrain for me. I've always wanted a Smithy revolver but since im not fluent on them, i never jump on a new one.

Fast forward to last week, i got offered a 6" 686 Stainless revolver (no idea if it's a no dash or dash model) for $325 plus transfers fees ( about 20 bucks down here in Puerto Rico).

Naturaly my first reaction was to jump on it, but.... me being all new at this decided to ask first. I have already asked this on another board and the feedback was "go for it" but still wanted to hear it from the guys that do this every day.

I have till tomorrow to make the call since i was the first "bite" on the local e-board where it was posted. The price it's around $350 when you factor in the fees. Plus a 3-hour round trip, but i enjoy driving thru the island so thats no biggie

Pics of the actual gun, everything on the pics in included.

Let it rip guys, i will appreciate straight shooting from you guys.

Thanks

J

------------------------------------------------------------------------- Update GOT IT!!!

We'll guys, this thing is just awesome. Im actually kinda pissed at the fact that i had not gotten a Smithy Wheel gun before. I have no idea if the trigger have seen some work but the single action pull is just off the hook.
Then again i come from service guns, some 1911 (nothing extremely fancy) and high end polymers so it may feel better than it acctually is. Either way, i find it to be just awesome.

The model is a 686-1 with a (M) stamped on top. So i guess it has been to S&W for the repair, the year of manufacture still eludes me.

The hammer action feels like butter, that may be from the fact that the gun has a Wolf Spring kit on it, I dont know, but it feels good, and the Double Action feels better than my SRT equipped Sig 226. One thing i did was not tightening the Cylinder rod down (IDK if thats the correct name) and then closing the cylinder. This kinda left me with a stuck cylinder and i had to depress the "lock" with a dowell and realese the thing. Funny cuz i always manage to partially screw the "new weapon system" high jamming something or locking something down the first friking 10 mins of "hands on" hehehehe Rookie mistake

The bore looks awesome, as a matter of fact i looks kinda "over cleaned" to my standards. You know i have no safe queens and i do a lot of IPSC shooting and F-TR gunning so i mean, it's not that sparkling clean bores are something strange for me but...you know

The grips, well im leaving the factory woods for a while. I thinking of Nills in the near future. The Hogue are ummm on the to sell bin, whoever wants em, give me a PM.

Since this will be a "fun/range gun" im thinking of slapping a Red Dot on top of it. Any ideas as to where i might have some luck regarding mounts and RDS's for her?Also, is it possible to convert here to a 7-shot?

All in all i havent shot the thing yet, plan to so on tuesday so no Range report yet. Bottomline, for $325 plus $20 to cover transfer fees this is one of the best deals iv'e gotten in a while!!

Thanks for all the members who took their time and gave me some input, i will surely be coming back for both more info as well as give back to this community.

Thanks Guys!!

J
Pics of the unit

Question: Is this normal hammer wear?

Rear sight

Front sight question: In case i drop the Red Dot idea, where i might be able to find decent replacements for the front. Night sights, fiber optic?

Trigger. It looks like they polished it, i dont know.

Woods. These are staying

Let your opinions fly guys!!!

Thanks a lot!!
J

 

[bassoneer]

I've had three 686's and know just enough to be dangerous. Looks like that one is a -3 or earlier (I can't tell the earliest ones apart). Probably a square butt frame with square butt grips. Also looks like it has been highly polished (which I like and have done to two of mine). I have not seen one go for that low of a price. Even the one I purchased in the 80's...I think I paid $357 new (I remember that because it was a 357). So, if I were looking for a solid .357 handgun, made by a prominent manufacturer, that I could shoot any type of .357 round with...that is an awesome price. Do you know how to check for end shake and fit-up? Again, I'm no expert, but there are a few simple things to check with the cylinder and barrel before you jump...that would be the only concern...it is selling for a low price because of something that is broken. I doubt that's the case, but you should look it over closely. If all is good, then go for it. Best wishes, B

 

[JAVO]

I've had three 686's and know just enough to be dangerous. Looks like that one is a -3 or earlier (I can't tell the earliest ones apart). Probably a square butt frame with square butt grips. Also looks like it has been highly polished (which I like and have done to two of mine). I have not seen one go for that low of a price. Even the one I purchased in the 80's...I think I paid $357 new (I remember that because it was a 357). So, if I were looking for a solid .357 handgun, made by a prominent manufacturer, that I could shoot any type of .357 round with...that is an awesome price. Do you know how to check for end shake and fit-up? Again, I'm no expert, but there are a few simple things to check with the cylinder and barrel before you jump...that would be the only concern...it is selling for a low price because of something that is broken. I doubt that's the case, but you should look it over closely. If all is good, then go for it. Best wishes, B

Hey bassoneer, thanks for the fast reply. No, i do not know how to check for end shake and fit-up. To tell you the truth i have no idea what those are.

This is a very honest man that i know from a few years back, he is a IPSC competitor and a humble person. He is selling cuz he straight up needs some dough. Thats the reason for the price. Still 350 is 350 in this economy and i wanted to make sure im buying a solid piece. I have no safe queens

Also, how the hell were you able to know the "dash" number 0.o

J

 

[Gasman1972]

That looks like a $500-$600 gun to me.

Make sure it's unloaded, pull the hammer back. You should hear a click early, then another just before the hammer is all the way back. Once you hear the second click the cylinder should not move any more and should be lined up with the barrel.

Then let the hammer back down but do not let off the trigger once it is. Then wiggle the cylinder side to side and try to push it front to back. You'd like for it to be solid front to back and not sloppy side to side.

 

[tbury]

The model number including "dash" will be stamped in the frame where the yoke opens under the barrel forcing cone. The yoke is the part that the cylinder rotates on. Endshake is the amount of front to back movement for the cylinder when it is in position (normal closed firing position). If the seller is a straight up guy he can show you how to check.

 

[JAVO]

The model number including "dash" will be stamped in the frame where the yoke opens under the barrel forcing cone. The yoke is the part that the cylinder rotates on. Endshake is the amount of front to back movement for the cylinder when it is in position (normal closed firing position). If the seller is a straight up guy he can show you how to check.

He is a straight up guy, it's just that he might not know how to check either if you know what i mean.

Are those the only "hotspots" to check or is there somewhere else where i might need to keep an eye out for?

Thanks

J

 

[eaglebeaver]

Open the cylinder and look for the "686-*" stamped on the frame. Also where I live that is a great price for a 686.

 

[JAVO]

That looks like a $500-$600 gun to me.

Make sure it's unloaded, pull the hammer back. You should hear a click early, then another just before the hammer is all the way back. Once you hear the second click the cylinder should not move any more and should be lined up with the barrel.

Then let the hammer back down but do not let off the trigger once it is. Then wiggle the cylinder side to side and try to push it front to back. You'd like for it to be solid front to back and not sloppy side to side.

Thanks, i'll make sure to hit these!!

J

 

[JAVO]

Open the cylinder and look for the "686-*" stamped on the frame. Also where I live that is a great price for a 686.

Yeah, this im gonna do the second im handed the weapon.

J

 

[bassoneer]

Also, how the hell were you able to know the "dash" number 0.o

J

JAVO,

I looked at a few things on the gun...there was no internal lock, so it is a -5 or earlier. There is a little difference on the frame, right behind the cylinder between the -5 and the -4, so I knew it was a -4 or earlier. The trigger and hammer on the -4 is a dark grey and brown mottled looking material and the -3's and earlier had a shinier trigger and hammer, so I knew it was a -3 or earlier. There is a book I've been wanting...it's the standard catalog of Smith and Wesson (not sure the exact title) and it describes the changes to each gun, each model. It would give a more complete description. Good luck, B

 

[JAVO]

JAVO,

I looked at a few things on the gun...there was no internal lock, so it is a -5 or earlier. There is a little difference on the frame, right behind the cylinder between the -5 and the -4, so I knew it was a -4 or earlier. The trigger and hammer on the -4 is a dark grey and brown mottled looking material and the -3's and earlier had a shinier trigger and hammer, so I knew it was a -3 or earlier. There is a book I've been wanting...it's the standard catalog of Smith and Wesson (not sure the exact title) and it describes the changes to each gun, each model. It would give a more complete description. Good luck, B

Got it!!

Thanks for the input.

J

 

[alfsauve]

That's a terrible deal. In order to protect you from this tragedy, just give me the name and address of your friend and I'll send the $350 and have him ship it up here. It's a sacrifice I'm willing to make.

In all seriousness, there can't be that much, other than say a barrel or cylinder that can't be fixed/replaced for a few bucks.

Don't wait around. Go get the thing now. What are you waiting on?

 

[cptdco]

That's a very low price for that gun. As Bassoneer stated, could be a no-dash through a dash 3. But all are great guns and a fine platform for the .357 cartride so it doesn't matter. Looks like the previous owner installed a Wolfe spring kit. Take a look at the mainspring in the plastic bag and if it doesn't have a raised rib down the length of it, that's the original from the factory. And yes, someone's spent some time polishing the gun and it looks like they did a good job. Did I mention that $350 is a real bargin? I've got a whole bunch of 686s and I'd still jump to buy that one at that price. Good luck with it.

 

[JAVO]

That's a very low price for that gun. As Bassoneer stated, could be a no-dash through a dash 3. But all are great guns and a fine platform for the .357 cartride so it doesn't matter. Looks like the previous owner installed a Wolfe spring kit. Take a look at the mainspring in the plastic bag and if it doesn't have a raised rib down the length of it, that's the original from the factory. And yes, someone's spent some time polishing the gun and it looks like they did a good job. Did I mention that $350 is a real bargin? I've got a whole bunch of 686s and I'd still jump to buy that one at that price. Good luck with it.

Yeah, i think even if the thing needs some work it's a no brainer to jump on it. I'll drive down tomorrow to pick it up and, if time permits it, send some rounds down the pipe to see how she handles.

I'll be sure to post pics of the Range Report!!!

Thanks for all the input guys, much appreciated!!

J

 

[Bulld4wg]

Seems to low to be true. Hopefully it's not stolen somewhere down the line.

 

[JAVO]

Seems to low to be true. Hopefully it's not stolen somewhere down the line.

One thing i do before each used gun purchase, is tracking the transfers done to the weapon to it's origin. He claims he bought it new at a licensed S&W dealer. He says he can produce the original docs.

In any case, down here we have a "Electronic gun registry" (another excuse for a legalized invasion of privacy) so, if it;s clear with the E-reg. chances are it's clean.

We'll see, but yeah, it's a steal!!

J

 

[JAVO]

New pics and update on the First/Original Post!!

Thanks

J

 

[bassoneer]

Nice gun. If you're like me, you'll shoot a few hot .357 magnums, and then have fun shooting .38's for years. I like having the capacity for the big rounds, but usually have more fun with the .38's. Nice finish on the gun too...I like them polished. I can't offer any advice on the red dot sights or the replacement sights, but it looks good to me just as it is. Have fun! B

 

[JAVO]

Nice gun. If you're like me, you'll shoot a few hot .357 magnums, and then have fun shooting .38's for years. I like having the capacity for the big rounds, but usually have more fun with the .38's. Nice finish on the gun too...I like them polished. I can't offer any advice on the red dot sights or the replacement sights, but it looks good to me just as it is. Have fun! B

I might need to pick up a "scrappy" .38 to do just that. Down here in PR we need to have the gun for the caliber of ammo we are buying, so a beat to hell .38 is on my "to buy" list just so i can get .38 ammo for this one.

I must say, this thing rocks and i haven't even shot it yet. The pull is awesome both DA and SA and it points so friggin naturally it's not even funny.

The Red dot, well im just playing with the idea, may drop it, i kinda like the gun as is too.

The brother to the guy that sold this to me, has another just like this one 686-1 and it's selling with quite a boat load of stuff (Moonclips, speedloaders, comp rig, carry right, wolf spring kit among some things) for $400 man.

Im so frigging hooked on this thing i might just buy a second one just because they are awesome!!

Thanks for the input!!

J

 

[sourdough44]

Nice gun, great price. I have an early 90's vintage 686, very lightly used. Just FYI, last summer or so I took the side plate of my 686(& a few other S&Ws). It was clean inside but rather dry. Depending on how mechanically inclined you are you may consider removing the side plate for inspection & a light lube job. When I get a somewhat older gun with an unknown history I like to give it a good once over. I surely wouldn't want to talk you into something your not comfortable with & mess things up, just an idea.

There are instructions for side plate removal on the web in various places, U-tube & others.