New M&P15OR

[Foxtrot]

I picked up a new M&P15OR yesterday. Slapped some Troy Battle Sights on it, grabbed a couple boxes of ammo, took it to the range.

We do 50 yard/200 meter zero on our weapons.

Results of 50 yard zero: On left without adjustment and BUIS had just been mounted. On right is after adjustment of BUIS for zero. Bipod used, prone, 5.56 62 grain NATO XM855, 8 rounds total (five left, three right), two cups of coffee .

I scanned in the paper target used for the zero so its a little hard to tell because its so dark but look at the first five rounds on the left, this is before any adjustment was made to the Troy sights (they come out of the package already at mechanical zero). This is the 15th set of Troy battle sights (we use them exclusively) i've put on an OR and they are always the same out of the package, a few clicks up and right from zero on the 50 yard. I've just done a blind adjustment on a few of them without firing a shot and been zero'd, thats how predictable its been for these Troy's. These sights were from our parts stock, ones we have in our parts stock now were ordered in a 100 set bulk buy a while back, it must have been a good day at the Troy plant the day these were made.

Going to mount the rest of the package later today (the EOTech and laser), and then i'll try it out at actual 200 meter distance. I'm pretty sure I already know how its going to come out, done this drill many times, with all POI within around 2 to 3 inches of center mass with just the BUIS, with the EOTech a little tighter, and with a 3X magnifier behind the EOTech and maybe a little holding or refinement of zero i'll get the same grouping I did at 50 yard zero. Then we will refine the zero, then for the laser do a 'laser line/line of bore' laser zero and be within 3 to 4 inches out to 300 meters with the laser.

 

[JohnnyTactical305]

Congrats on your OR, got one myself.

 

[Foxtrot]

I actually picked this one up for work to replace a Colt. I personally have three of the M&P 15 OR's though.

 

[BillyJack2012]

Nice groups! I'm working on tightening mine up now. I was shooting short distance and blowing through ammo. Shooting for accuracy is going to save me a lot of money.

 

[StlBluesFan72]

I tried a set of the micros, and I couldnt see through my optic ... lol. It is on a cantilever mount, and through the sights I was looking at the bottom of the eyepiece. My LGS took them back, and said they were basically designed for rifles with piston systems that have higher than normal top rails ??? I guess an optic in a low mount would be fine.

 

[StlBluesFan72]

Aimpoint on a GG&G QD cantilever mount. The micros are very short when deployed, they might work fine with an optic in a low mount. I had to buy the regular Troy Battle sights.

 

[StlBluesFan72]

GG&G Aimpoint Accucam QD Cantilever mount that is my exact setup on the OR.

 

[storeyteller]

Sounds like a pretty dadgum sweet set up! Condradulations!

 

[Foxtrot]

Foxtrot, which troys were they? I just ordered the micro m4 folding front and folding di optic rear set to mount on my OR edition, I ordered them from Botach without thinking to check reviews, and afterwards I checked and now I am nervous but I only paid $157 for the set, let's just hope they are legit and not knockoffs and get here before Christmas
Troy Micro M4 Front & DOA Rear Folding Sights Set

The target was shot with these:

Front Sight: Troy BattleSight Front M4 Folding

Rear Sight: Troy BattleSight Rear Folding

Answered similar questions here also > http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...guard-iron-sights-question.html#post136700640

If Botach said they were real Troy sights then they are Troy sights.

Troy Micro Sets - Back-Up Iron Sights » Folding » Micro Sets

Micro is not for everyone, some people get them and decide they don't like them for one reason or another. The sight line on the OR with the micro sights is a lot closer to the barrel and takes some getting used to especially if you are used to normal height sights. For co-witness through other optics you need to take that into account and optics should meet the same sight line height as the micro sights which means a change in mount for the other optics might be needed.

 

[Foxtrot]

lorenz;

Just curious if you got the sights yet, mounted them, and how they are working out for you.

 

[Foxtrot]

Yes I got the micros, sent them back, got regular ones and went to the range, I was getting 10 shot groups within 2" at 25 yards and 10 shot groups within 4" at 50 yards. I think it is ok for a first time ar15 owner with little rifle experience and I didn't even try to zero the troys because I don't really know how LOL. I can tell that I need an optic for anything past 50 yards, I was thinking a redfield revenge or revolution

The micros, like I said before, some like them some don't.

Zero is simple. Get a standard 25 meter/300 meter zero target for the M-4, you can find them all over the internet, if you can't find one then PM me and i'll send one to you. Make sure sights are set to mechanical zero - Troy sights come at mechanical zero from the factory so they should be OK for that. Mechanical zero is easy to do if its needed, just rotate the front sight post up or down as necessary to have the bottom portion even with the hole its in on the sight, for the rear rotate left or right as necessary until its centered (The Troys have a center mark and hash's on the rear sights to guage adjustment). For the Troys you should not need to adjust that much. My troy sights are always just a few clicks to zero on all the flip ups i've put on for a 50 yard/200 meter zero.

To zero the Troy sights, basically simplified (do from prone, benched, etc... the most stable postion available to you);

1. At 25 meters from target aim at center mass on target black silhouette with correct sight picture using the large hole aperture of the rear sight. Fire three rounds, with the tightest grouping you can. Remember the fundamantals - proper grip and breathing control, squeeze the trigger, cheek weld and head position, sight alignment, sight picture. Rear sight should be slightly blurry, front sight post should be clear and sharp, target should be slightly out of focus, front sight post centered in rear aperture vertically and horizontally with top of front post on target at center mass of target black silhouette. Head/cheek is in the proper postion when the dominate eye (your "aiming" eye) seems to focus automatically at the center of the rear sight aperture (the human eye does this naturally, seeks the center of a circle when aligned with a circle.). Stock position is for the proper non-strained head and eye alignment position and cheek weld. Practically; Start with stock fully extended but if you find yourself sort of straining your head forward a little at fully extended then move it up a notch. Adjust stock as necessary for proper head and eye alignment with good cheek weld without straining forward or backward with the head. You may want to check your fundamentals first; No sight adjustments should be made until you can put two three shot groups (six consecutive shots) inside a 4 centimeter circle on the target paper at 25 meters.

2. Look at target, get center of group and from that group center count down or up and left or right, the number of squares from the group center to the center mass of the target black silhouette.

3. Adjust the front sight down or up as needed the number of clicks that = the number of squares you counted down or up on the target ---- adjust the rear sight left or right as needed the number clicks that = the number of squares you counted left or right on the target.

4. Repeat as necessary until you have a good tight group with its center at the center mass of the target black silhouette. The group, if done properly from a stable postion with proper technique should be about the size of a nickle or better - "or better" is prefered. The "better" shot group should have all three rounds of a three round group well within a 2 centimeter circle. A three round group within a 4 centimeter circle is the minimum standard for the platform. If you can't put a three round group within a 4 centimeter circle then you need to work on your fundamentals.

5. Flip the rear sight aperture so that the small hole is up and sight again as in step 1 but using the small hole in the rear sight aperture this time, repeat steps 1 - 4 to check. Depending on your vision and hold thats specific to you, you may or may not need maybe one more click. Some people zero with the small hole aperture for the whole thing.

6. Refine as necessary.

Thats basically how to zero, for more details there are videos and information all over the internet. From there you can change to other types of zero like a 50 yard/200 meter zero (which is really good for the M&P 15 OR), or a 100 yard zero, etc.... if you wish when you gain more experience but this will get you started with something easy that shows the relation of the sight adjustment for click adjustment and the target for zero. You probably did this in military basic training, or in military annual qualification, maybe prior to a deployment also, its no different and the zero methodology is the same.

To adjust the sights. you simply press down the pin and rotate adjustment wheel the necessary direction. You can use a bullet tip to press the pin if you don't have an adjustment tool, but a nail of proper size with point filed flat works just as well. We have a nail hanging at each firing position on our range in case someone doesn't want to use a bullet tip and doesn't have a tool with them, I keep one in the range bag just in case.

Scopes, plenty of discussion in the forum about those as of late, you might see something you like in one of those discussions also before you settle on the Redfield.

 

[Foxtrot]

@lorenz0369

Not too bad Looks like your getting the hang of it.

I see what looks like distinct seperate nice three shot groups.

How does the troy iron sights zero look?

Are you a left handed shooter?

I'd offer the suggestion, if you think it applicapable, that you work slightly on your trigger and breath control, maybe on your hold a tiny bit, and use the first finger pad (where your finger prints are) on the trigger so you squeeze more directly back through the entire trigger pull. Maybe a little refinement of scope zero also.

A little practice and in no time you will be the dreaded scourge of targets everywhere