New Member, New Gun, New ?
- Thread starter gnip
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Ken NC
Member
Not sure what info you'd like. Supica and Nahas, "Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson" at page 396, states: 1907-1940: 5th 220000-261495.
So, yours seems to be about in the middle of the date range for the 5th engineering change.
I have a "4th change": had it checked out by a gunsmith and cleared to shoot. So I have, a little. The grips on mine already had scalloped-shaped chips out of the bottom (seems common) so I haven't worried about getting aftermarket grips to protect the originals.
So, yours seems to be about in the middle of the date range for the 5th engineering change.
I have a "4th change": had it checked out by a gunsmith and cleared to shoot. So I have, a little. The grips on mine already had scalloped-shaped chips out of the bottom (seems common) so I haven't worried about getting aftermarket grips to protect the originals.
Ken, thank you for the dates...
This gun was given to me by my dad; he had recently aquired it at an estate auction. Mine has a rough side, like it was laying in a tool box for many years.
Are these worth restoring as shooters, or are they better left as conversation pieces? Am I better off selling it as a parts gun? If one was to re-finish it, would chrome or nickle plate be a better choice? Does anyone sell a spring kit to re-build the action?
This gun was given to me by my dad; he had recently aquired it at an estate auction. Mine has a rough side, like it was laying in a tool box for many years.
Are these worth restoring as shooters, or are they better left as conversation pieces? Am I better off selling it as a parts gun? If one was to re-finish it, would chrome or nickle plate be a better choice? Does anyone sell a spring kit to re-build the action?
The value of the gun would never support the restoration of it. Once a gun is "refinished", the value is about 1/2 of what it would have been if original, comparable condition. A refinish would cost from $250 to $500 depending on who did it and just how pitted or rusted it is now. If the current finish is nickle plated, but a lot missing, you can polish it with various compounds, Flitz being one, and the bare metal will sort of blend into the old nickle finish. Have it inspected by a gunsmith and find out if it is safe to shoot, and use it, or as you suggested, keep as a conversation piece. Spring's and other parts are difficult to find, and only some used parts dealers may have any.
Ken NC
Member
Good advice from H Richard. You might get still more input with a different title to your thread, like "how to mechanical check a safety hammerless" and/or "refinish or not?" (that last one always seems to get a lot of input!) Folks here would surely love to see pictures, but short of that would like to know things like: top latch tight? Any screws buggered? Blue or nickel? Condition of case coloring on trigger? Anyway, hope this helps. Really sounds like a very nice gift from your dad!
Everything locks up real tight,
the pull on the trigger is crisp,
(firing pin does not come forward when action is open,
don't know enough about this,
safety feature or bad spring?)
ejector functions
(ejects then returns on its own)
screws appear un-molested,
Bluing on triger guard is still decent
grips look nice,
(only one small spot worn smooth)
Yes, I have to get some pics loaded.
the pull on the trigger is crisp,
(firing pin does not come forward when action is open,
don't know enough about this,
safety feature or bad spring?)
ejector functions
(ejects then returns on its own)
screws appear un-molested,
Bluing on triger guard is still decent
grips look nice,
(only one small spot worn smooth)
Yes, I have to get some pics loaded.
(firing pin does not come forward when action is open,
don't know enough about this,
safety feature or bad spring?)
The firing pin is spring loaded. Open the gun, put your finger (lightly) over the firing pin hole and pull the trigger. If your response is "Ouch!" the firing pin is working as it should. You can also slip a folded piece of paper between the rear of the cylinder and the firing pin and pull the trigger to see if the firing pin makes an impression, but the "Ouch!" method is quicker.
If this does not cause the desired effect the firing pin is broken, but easily replaced. Simply drive out the small pin holding the firing pin bushing and pull the trigger several times to drive the firing pin bushing out of the recoil shield. There are two parts behind it: the firing pin and a spring. Replace what is broken.
don't know enough about this,
safety feature or bad spring?)
The firing pin is spring loaded. Open the gun, put your finger (lightly) over the firing pin hole and pull the trigger. If your response is "Ouch!" the firing pin is working as it should. You can also slip a folded piece of paper between the rear of the cylinder and the firing pin and pull the trigger to see if the firing pin makes an impression, but the "Ouch!" method is quicker.
If this does not cause the desired effect the firing pin is broken, but easily replaced. Simply drive out the small pin holding the firing pin bushing and pull the trigger several times to drive the firing pin bushing out of the recoil shield. There are two parts behind it: the firing pin and a spring. Replace what is broken.
Driftwood Johnson
Member
Nevermind.
