New Model 66-8
- Thread starter howiema
- Start date
Mine is horrible. Heaviest trigger I've ever had, plus it seems to stack a bit before the second click when staging it, as it becomes noticeably harder to pull.
raylan007
Member
New vs Old
Mixing the new with the old is interesting, I just purchased a NIB M63 8 round 3" and a NIB M686 plus 3" , I just cleaned and waxed them so I had the opportunity to get up close and personal to check the fit and finish. As long as you don't expect it to feel or look like your favorite 40 year .357 or .22 L/R you won't be disappointed. As far as the I.L. I don't give it a second thought. Thanks again for the positive input on your new M66-8
........ Thanks for the input on lightening the trigger action and especially that they are easy to clean up, I was hesitant to buy one as I thought the bead blast might be difficult to maintain. I have no idea why you would worry about getting blasted for buying a new M66, mixing the old with the new is very practical IMO. I own a N/D M66 I was going to complement with possibly the new M66 as you have. My only reluctance is I see them online seldom selling. I saw one on GB just yesterday for $665, these have a MSRP of $840 I believe, so that gives me pause. After reading your thread and many others I am going to go forward and buy one.
Mixing the new with the old is interesting, I just purchased a NIB M63 8 round 3" and a NIB M686 plus 3" , I just cleaned and waxed them so I had the opportunity to get up close and personal to check the fit and finish. As long as you don't expect it to feel or look like your favorite 40 year .357 or .22 L/R you won't be disappointed. As far as the I.L. I don't give it a second thought. Thanks again for the positive input on your new M66-8
Hopper
Member
I have a NM 66 Combat, and completely agree with what you are saying above. I installed a Wilson Combat spring kit in mine (less than $20 including shipping from Midway IIRC), and went with the middle 13# trigger return spring.
It literally transformed the gun. I have yet to have a light primer strike or malfunction of any kind. My younger brother was fortunate enough to luck into a 66-5 police trade-in, and believe it or not, mine now has the better trigger of the two in both SA and DA.
Thanks Paul
Joe
Joe
Thanks for the tip! Assuming it comes back properly repaired (PLEEEEEEEZ GOD!!!), I'll have my LGS smith install a set, and maybe even a set of Big Dots, unless I decide to plunk another $300 into it and put a Burris FFIII on it. Decisions ...
Trigger and hand changes
A customer brought me a New model 66-8 after he had tried to install a new hammer spring from Wolff. Turns out Smith changed the length of the spring and Wolff did not know. In messing with the gun he removed the hand from the trigger. BAD move. The trigger has been changed in design. The hand is the only pin holding the spring in. I can not re-install this bugger and would like to see a picture of the trigger with hand and spring in place to see which way is up. If anyone has their trigger out, pleas take a picture of it. If anyone has a mind to remove the hand from the trigger,...Don't.
A customer brought me a New model 66-8 after he had tried to install a new hammer spring from Wolff. Turns out Smith changed the length of the spring and Wolff did not know. In messing with the gun he removed the hand from the trigger. BAD move. The trigger has been changed in design. The hand is the only pin holding the spring in. I can not re-install this bugger and would like to see a picture of the trigger with hand and spring in place to see which way is up. If anyone has their trigger out, pleas take a picture of it. If anyone has a mind to remove the hand from the trigger,...Don't.
BuckeyeS&W
Member
I have the Wolff main spring installed in my 66-8 no problems,it's the power rib that is standard strength. I did shim with a spent primer at mainspring screw.
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Thank you so much for this post. I just examined my 66-8 and found the same problem and used your solution---it snapped right into place. I hadn't noticed it before because the misalignment was so slight.
BDC5109
Member
Dear Paul,
thanks for posting this picture.
I am re-barreling my old school 66 and want to get rid of the flat peace at the cone at 6 o'clock.
Question about your new model: Is the gass ring now attached to the yoke and does the cilinder slide over it?
Would appreciated your reply.
best regards, Hans Peter
thanks for posting this picture.
I am re-barreling my old school 66 and want to get rid of the flat peace at the cone at 6 o'clock.
Question about your new model: Is the gass ring now attached to the yoke and does the cilinder slide over it?
Would appreciated your reply.
best regards, Hans Peter
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See my post #25 above - The gas ring has been replaced by the redesigned interface (which is part of the crane/yoke) between the crane/yoke and cylinder. The cylinder is a separate unit and has no gas ring. See larger picture in post #25 - the crane is contoured to fit under the barre shank, not the other way around as on the 19/66.. My guess is that if your M66 could be retrofitted, you would need both the new crane and cylinder and I'm not sure it would be a drop in fit or even close. I just don't know.
Paul
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BDC5109
Member
Dear Paul,
Thanks for the swift reply.
I think I know/see what S&W did with the gasring, what you nicely cal the interface.
With a bit of luck I can fix a solution/principle like that on my old 66.
You're totally right that a new cylinder and yoke will not be a simple drop in.
Maybe I get to my drawingboard tomorrow and post some sketches.
Best regards,
Hans Peter
Thanks for the swift reply.
I think I know/see what S&W did with the gasring, what you nicely cal the interface.
With a bit of luck I can fix a solution/principle like that on my old 66.
You're totally right that a new cylinder and yoke will not be a simple drop in.
Maybe I get to my drawingboard tomorrow and post some sketches.
Best regards,
Hans Peter
"My only wish is that is was a square butt."
Why? It's a lot easier to make a round butt into a square one with different grips, than doing the reverse.
Nice gun, I like my new blued version (model 19) quite a bit also.
Why? It's a lot easier to make a round butt into a square one with different grips, than doing the reverse.
Nice gun, I like my new blued version (model 19) quite a bit also.
Here are some pictures of the cylinder and crane/yoke removed from the frame.
Hope these help.
Paul
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My first S&W revolver, Model 66, 2.75 inch barrel. I found the action heavy compared to my sons 686, but with over 3000 dry fire cycles and plenty of lubrication...the action is now about 50% of what is was (measured by trigger finger...not by scale). I now have over 800 rounds through it equal amounts of 38 & 357. I have carried a Sig for over 18 years now.....however I am loving this new revolver. It is now my carry gun when I am not working. Do I feel under gunned going to a wheel gun ? Not at all. On the contrary my combat magnum has prompted better marksmanship skills.
One change I have made to my revolver is adding a HI VIZ fiber optic Trijicon illuminated sight to it. The sight is designed for the S&W DX sight exchange system.....but with a little filing by hand the sight can easily be fitted into the pinned slot on the Model 66.
One change I have made to my revolver is adding a HI VIZ fiber optic Trijicon illuminated sight to it. The sight is designed for the S&W DX sight exchange system.....but with a little filing by hand the sight can easily be fitted into the pinned slot on the Model 66.
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BDC5109
Member
Thanks for the new pictures, yes they certainly help!
It is clear to see that there is a recess in the front of the cylinder in which the small flange of the crane fits in. Very nice gas ring 2.0. From a engineers point of view these small but significant updates are nice to see. Makes me smile. Nice example of getting (thinking) out-of-the-box, a 50 year old box.
To me the challenge to modify my old school like this. Pulling out the gas ring, make the recess a bit larger and mount a flange on the crane.
Would be great to make the gun better than it already is.
I also have a 627 PC, custom 6", full barrel underlug, but no guaranty for beating the 66. I am shooting a 19/66 since decades and they fit great, shoot great. Nice that S&W fixed the problem of the cracking cone. Not that I am such a 357 enthusiast, but it makes the gun complete.
Would like to see a new model live, but it takes a while before the new models get overseas. They can't swim as good as they shoot ;-)
It is clear to see that there is a recess in the front of the cylinder in which the small flange of the crane fits in. Very nice gas ring 2.0. From a engineers point of view these small but significant updates are nice to see. Makes me smile. Nice example of getting (thinking) out-of-the-box, a 50 year old box.
To me the challenge to modify my old school like this. Pulling out the gas ring, make the recess a bit larger and mount a flange on the crane.
Would be great to make the gun better than it already is.
I also have a 627 PC, custom 6", full barrel underlug, but no guaranty for beating the 66. I am shooting a 19/66 since decades and they fit great, shoot great. Nice that S&W fixed the problem of the cracking cone. Not that I am such a 357 enthusiast, but it makes the gun complete.
Would like to see a new model live, but it takes a while before the new models get overseas. They can't swim as good as they shoot ;-)
