New MP15 - MOE/FDE - Scope/Cleaning before firing questions
- Thread starter pgamboa
- Start date
Why would the range ban FMJ?? It is a copper jacket not steel, more penetration on flesh than soft point or JHP but on a steel backing, rubber in front, I really do not think there is any real difference or "excessive" damage. What is there backing made of??
cyphertext
US Veteran
The backing is made of dirt. They are outdoor ranges that ban them. They are afraid that they will go through the berm, or ricochet outside of the range.
I have the level X3,bore sighter, reticle leveler, and still have found them to be off a degree or two because our eye tries to put the horizontal line above or below the line, while vertical tries to line up the vertical lines. I will look for the reference. Enjoy. Be Safe,
You are kidding right? My 50 with AP will not go through my 8FT berm!! I understand you have to play by their rules! At least you have a place to shoot. Be Safe,
Yes, clean. Preservative lubricants applied at factory are not suitable for regular use.
Mounting MBUS depends on the eye relief of your scope, height of rings, size of scope, etc. Mount a pair of Troy Micros on a 45 degree mount.
Co-witness schmowitness. Malarkey.
If you want a quick release mount for the scope, I recommend LaRue. If you want cheap, get an NCStar.
I prefer a red dot or holo on mine with a flip to side magnifier. But magnification is rarely necessary and you want to develop marksmanship with irons. Magpul is cheap and fine, but I buy Troy. The Magpul might melt on your gas block if you fire a lot, but most people dont. Magpul has some new metal sights.
My preference is to keep the weapon compact and light.
You can mount it yourself but you have to be careful. You can buy a professional reticle leveling system or just use a cheap level set from Home Depot and a known 90 degree on the wall. Part of the fun of owning weapons is learning to do stuff yourself. Just be prepared to either be very patient and careful, buy tools, and make mistakes. Worth it as far as im concerned, but money isnt a concern for me.
Mounting MBUS depends on the eye relief of your scope, height of rings, size of scope, etc. Mount a pair of Troy Micros on a 45 degree mount.
Co-witness schmowitness. Malarkey.
If you want a quick release mount for the scope, I recommend LaRue. If you want cheap, get an NCStar.
I prefer a red dot or holo on mine with a flip to side magnifier. But magnification is rarely necessary and you want to develop marksmanship with irons. Magpul is cheap and fine, but I buy Troy. The Magpul might melt on your gas block if you fire a lot, but most people dont. Magpul has some new metal sights.
My preference is to keep the weapon compact and light.
You can mount it yourself but you have to be careful. You can buy a professional reticle leveling system or just use a cheap level set from Home Depot and a known 90 degree on the wall. Part of the fun of owning weapons is learning to do stuff yourself. Just be prepared to either be very patient and careful, buy tools, and make mistakes. Worth it as far as im concerned, but money isnt a concern for me.
zorro49
Member
pgamboa, I have the P223 with Nikon rings set up on PSA rifle. Could not use rear Mbus sight so removed. I shoot at max around 100 yds with my set up and it is quite accurate at that distance, scope had good eye relief, zeroes easily, and seems to have good clarity. Hope you enjoy your set up. zorro49
new rifle, scope and BUIS
At the very least, you should run a dry or very lightly oiled patch or bore snake through the bore before you fire a new rifle. That'll get rid of any machining chips or abrasive dirt that might have been left in the bore at the factory.
As for a cleaning and re-lube throughout, that should be done before you fire a lot of rounds, but failure to do so isn't likely to do any harm if you're just panting to squeeze off a few from your new rifle. Any new rifle generally might come bone dry, or it might have who-knows-what on it, as a shipping preservative. But probably not the best long-term lube for protection from wear and best functioning. What is the best? Ask a dozen guys, get two dozen answers. Whole 'nother subject there.
Regarding installing a scope and BUIS together:
You will probably find that scope mount rings directly on the rail leave the scope too low for comfortable shooting. Many end up installing a "riser rail" between the built-in rail on the upper receiver and the scope rings (permanent or QD rings). Depending on your face shape/shooting position of choice and the eyepiece size/eye relief of your scope, an "offset" riser rail (extends the mounting rail further forward than the rail on your upper receiver) might solve both the problem of fitting the BUIS on the rail behind the scope, AND finding a full field of view in your scope.
G'luck with your setup, sounds nice.
At the very least, you should run a dry or very lightly oiled patch or bore snake through the bore before you fire a new rifle. That'll get rid of any machining chips or abrasive dirt that might have been left in the bore at the factory.
As for a cleaning and re-lube throughout, that should be done before you fire a lot of rounds, but failure to do so isn't likely to do any harm if you're just panting to squeeze off a few from your new rifle. Any new rifle generally might come bone dry, or it might have who-knows-what on it, as a shipping preservative. But probably not the best long-term lube for protection from wear and best functioning. What is the best? Ask a dozen guys, get two dozen answers. Whole 'nother subject there.
Regarding installing a scope and BUIS together:
You will probably find that scope mount rings directly on the rail leave the scope too low for comfortable shooting. Many end up installing a "riser rail" between the built-in rail on the upper receiver and the scope rings (permanent or QD rings). Depending on your face shape/shooting position of choice and the eyepiece size/eye relief of your scope, an "offset" riser rail (extends the mounting rail further forward than the rail on your upper receiver) might solve both the problem of fitting the BUIS on the rail behind the scope, AND finding a full field of view in your scope.
G'luck with your setup, sounds nice.
Yes clean the heck out of it. Most rifles ship with a compound that is meant to keep the gun from rusting. They don't know how long it will sit on the shelf or whatever. They want the customer to get a rifle that is not rusting etc.
You should pull out the BCG, tear it apart and clean that gunk off of it. Clean the barrel as well. Lube it up good, really good, almost dripping. When the rifle is new it can take a few rounds to break it in. Where the bolt head meats the barrel is where its going to do the most rubbing. It can be tight when its new. Lube....lube....lube. After about 200 rounds it should be broken in.
As far as the scope vs red dot...etc. Most people will experiment until they figure things out. In my opinion you need to figure our the purpose of the rifle then build to that. I would not, even with good Larue QD mounts, swap out a red dot and a scope. I have a separate upper with a scope on it. I have a dedicated upper with a red dot (Eotech) and a dedicated upper with a 3x9 Nikon scope on it.
Personally anything up to 200 yards I use my red dot. Its much more versitale to me. I hit 8 inch steel plates at 200 in a supported position. I would only want a scope for precision at that range, or for longer ranges.
I would highly suggest learning iron sights first. Get them dialed in. My preference is a 50/200 meter with my irons/red dot, 100 meter zero with my scope. I only really use the scope for hunting and lately I just use the Eotech.
You should pull out the BCG, tear it apart and clean that gunk off of it. Clean the barrel as well. Lube it up good, really good, almost dripping. When the rifle is new it can take a few rounds to break it in. Where the bolt head meats the barrel is where its going to do the most rubbing. It can be tight when its new. Lube....lube....lube. After about 200 rounds it should be broken in.
As far as the scope vs red dot...etc. Most people will experiment until they figure things out. In my opinion you need to figure our the purpose of the rifle then build to that. I would not, even with good Larue QD mounts, swap out a red dot and a scope. I have a separate upper with a scope on it. I have a dedicated upper with a red dot (Eotech) and a dedicated upper with a 3x9 Nikon scope on it.
Personally anything up to 200 yards I use my red dot. Its much more versitale to me. I hit 8 inch steel plates at 200 in a supported position. I would only want a scope for precision at that range, or for longer ranges.
I would highly suggest learning iron sights first. Get them dialed in. My preference is a 50/200 meter with my irons/red dot, 100 meter zero with my scope. I only really use the scope for hunting and lately I just use the Eotech.
Thanks for all the comments, suggestions and advice everyone! I surely appreciate it.
Here is a shot of a new Bushnell 3-12x40 scope with the same Nikon P-223 Rings. Has anyone mounted their scope this way? It looks kind of odd to me with the rings inverted rather than the same direction.
This scope has a longer tube base than the Nikon P-223 scope and combine that with rail space only leaves me with this configuration.
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Here is a shot of a new Bushnell 3-12x40 scope with the same Nikon P-223 Rings. Has anyone mounted their scope this way? It looks kind of odd to me with the rings inverted rather than the same direction.
This scope has a longer tube base than the Nikon P-223 scope and combine that with rail space only leaves me with this configuration.
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Carrot
Member
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I don't like the way that looks. I think you'll find keeping zero difficult. A bump will rock the scope rather than let it flex a little parallel to the barrel.
Is there any chance you can find a non cantilevered rear ring that has the same height as the nikon ring?
I have the Bushnell 3-9,and those rings fit that scope just fine in the normal orientation.
Is there any chance you can find a non cantilevered rear ring that has the same height as the nikon ring?
I have the Bushnell 3-9,and those rings fit that scope just fine in the normal orientation.
Well...So much for some range time tonight with the rifle. Rifle bay was closed for remodeling 
. Ended up plinking with 15-22, SR22 and XDM 9mm. Son wasn't entirely sad as we blew through 500rds of .22 and about 200rds of 9mm. More importantly, father/son bonding. Will look for another range later this week.
. Ended up plinking with 15-22, SR22 and XDM 9mm. Son wasn't entirely sad as we blew through 500rds of .22 and about 200rds of 9mm. More importantly, father/son bonding. Will look for another range later this week.Similar threads
