New or used 686

Like others have said, I would look for a pre-lock 686. I have never paid more than $470 out the door for a pre-lock shooter grade revolver. If the revolver was unfired and included the box etc, I might go about $550.
Look around. You will find a nice one at a reasonable price.
Good luck,
Howard
 
I'd shop sites like GunBroker for a 686-4 or older before buying either one. Unless 686 prices have escalated a lot in the three months since I stopped shopping them, I think you'll find a no-lock, non-MIM gun for less than either of those two.

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The most I paid for any of the ones in the photo above was $650 and that was for the -3 Classic Hunter on the left and the -4 PowerPort on the right, which is unfired. The other two, a 6" no-dash and a 4" -4, were both $450 but I added the correct checkered target stocks and a target hammer and trigger to the no-dash.

Larry, that gun of yours is a real beauty!

Ed
 
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jet guns has a new 686 il 357 4" ss wo rr for $673. free shipping probably no tax. i recently bought 2 guns from jet and service was excellent both times.
 
I guess it all comes down to personal preference. To me, I'll take Smith's "older iron" any day of the week. I'm not a big fan of MIM parts and I hate the lock.

Current count in my safe includes 3 686's (a no dash and 2 -1's) and a 586-1.
 
Do you know what model the used 686 is? Check the serial # it will say 686-?. That will tell the age. In general older guns are a better value, better built and much better triggers. JMO.

Just squeezed a new 686-6, and yeah the trigger is gritty. Is it still better than a Taurus or a Ruger, probably, but that would be the first thing I did to any new Smith revo.
 
You may be able to buy that 686 for $662, but once you add the FFL transfer fee you're pretty close to the in-state price. And the 686+ is a little more, which makes the $720 I paid pretty reasonable. Also, prices everywhere are up because the gun manufacturers can't keep up, but especially in states like MD that are not very gun friendly.
 
You may be able to buy that 686 for $662, but once you add the FFL transfer fee you're pretty close to the in-state price. And the 686+ is a little more, which makes the $720 I paid pretty reasonable. Also, prices everywhere are up because the gun manufacturers can't keep up, but especially in states like MD that are not very gun friendly.

WOW! You must be paying extreme transfer fees in MD.. They are only $15 - $25 dollars here. That's still $30+ dollars difference even if the $720 was the after tax price, and $100 less than what the OP found.
 
I can tell you that the average FFL I've found here is $45. The sad part is that we in MD pay more for what everyone else gets for a reasonable price.
 
My FFL charges $40, which I think is high. When I buy a gun online I gotta factor in $70 to cover shipping and FFL.
 
I ended up getting the used gun. I couldn't talk him down, but the gun looks brand new. It could really pass as NIB. All the original paperwork was included in the box. The date on the spent casing from the factory is December of 2002.

I shot 75 rounds (50 .38+p and 25 .357) with it this weekend and it was a real dream to shoot. I was managing 1.5" groups from 25 feet with no problem. I am sure with practice I can do better, but I was really happy with this for my first time with it.

I do have one question regarding cleaning it. I know that it you shoot a lot of .38 specials in a .357 revolver that build up can prevent the magnums from chambering properly. Is it safe to use a bore snake to clean them out, or should I use something else?

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To me, it is a no brainer. I would buy a used one, preferably from the 1980s. They are not difficult to find in really nice shape.
 
The bore snake is fine. I have the 686-4 4" and shoot a lot of .38's. The gap in front of the .38 cartridge and the .357 rim of the cylinder will collect residue. Keep this brushed out or your ammo won't seat properly and the cylinder won't rotate (among other problems). I use a .40 cal brass brush - but I'll warn you - it takes a lot of work to clean the cylinder.
 
My FFL charges $40, which I think is high. When I buy a gun online I gotta factor in $70 to cover shipping and FFL.

Wow, that's crazy. I have a friendly FFL that will do first transfer 25$, and up to 4 more for $10 each. I guess on the ATF transfer form, there is room for 5 articles, and that's why they limit it at 5 items per "transaction". You of course can do an additional 5 the same way, but honestly, how many of us buy more than 5 guns at a time.

There are a couple that do transfers for $50, but I obviously dont do business with them, most are between $20-$35. The reason I use the one I mentioned is because he gives a discount for more than 1.

As far as the 686 question, I would try to get a used one. Apparently the 686 and 585 of the "-4" revision are the best mechanically, and are pre-MIM and pre-lock, but with a couple nice technical revisions to the yoke/crane. I sadly only have two 686's, one 4" -1 "M" and one 6" -1 and no 586's. But that will change.
They are great shooters, I think actually I do my best shooting with my 6" 686 of any handgun I own. I hope to one day pick up a 686-4 of both 4" and 6" barrel lengths, but for now, I am not going to overpay for one. One will fall into my lap like most of the rest of my guns have.
 
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You mean people buy more than 1 at a time??? :)

People dont? ;)

I hope I never get pulled over by some wet behind the ears cop who dont know the law, he will probably think I am some militia dude based on the number of firearms I usually (legally) have "on or about" my vehicle and person
 
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