New Press! Dillon questions.

68Dave

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Well, new to me anyway. I did the standard single stage before swapping to the Lee Classic Turret a couple years ago. This week however I finally got a used Dillon. I didn't need extreme speed,just wanted fewer lever pulls. It's a RL550B. It came with conversion kits for 45 and 9mm. It seems to be an older model, but doesn't show any wear. I'm in the process of getting it mounted and dialed in. I've notice though my powder drop only has one link on the fail safe rod. This seems to have been changed a few years back.
Anyone still using the old style set up? Would it be ok for a little while? The low primer alarm is not working , the old battery had let go in there. What is the blue tipped primer tube for? I know the green and yellow.
Thanks for any information or advice.
David.
 
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Small primers: Yellow pickup tube tip and blue primer magazine tip

Large primers: Green pickup tube tip and red primer magazine tip
 
Welcome to the "world of blue"!!!! Hold on to your pocketbook. If you are like most of us you'll want MORE!!
 
Call Dillon for an owners manual if you don't have one.
I have had the 550 B for a few years and it's a great simple press to set up.
However I found, for me, loading goes much smoother using a RCBS hand primer for my brass. I also decap my brass and then clean eliminating the primer knock out on the press.
 
Thanks for the responses. I found red tips in the extra parts. It's was mostly set up. I'm just easing into it , cleaning and lubing , before I dive right in. Just learning the mechanics of Dillon.
I do have a manual and apparently am gonna need it. The powder funnel is hanging below the die and is being pushed up by the shell plate. I'll pull it apart tonight and try to see why.
Thanks again ,
David
 
One of the accessories I recommend is the 550 replacement parts kit. If any part breaks, it is under warranty! But if you just lose something or it breaks, the parts kit keeps you loading until UPS brings the replacement.

Second suggestion, figure out every cartridge you MAY load. Then get the shell plate and powder to match. You have the 45ACP shell plate, so if you get the 308 powder funnel, you're good to go for 308 and 30-06 and 300 Savage. Same sort of thing for the 9mm shell plate and 223, 380, 300 blackout...you get the idea! (you don't have to buy a complete cartridge change kit for each one!)

None of the accessories will be getting any less expensive, so buy 'em before the price goes up!

Third recommendation, get a Strongmount and a roller handle. I have extra primer tubes so I can load 1000 rounds before I take a break, the right height and the ease of the roller make that possible/standable!

Oh, BTW, you'll want several extra primer tubes of both sizes!

I have about 10 tool heads, what you need are a tool head for the rounds you load all the time. And at least one extra for oddball loadings.
I don't load 357mag but do load 38 special, if you do lots of either or both, have dedicated tool heads and die sets. Same goes for the powder through die (one for each tool head)

It all adds up, and I can sit here and spend your money all day!

Ivan
 
68Dave, the powder funnel is supposed to hang down. When you start filling the shell plate with the brass, the brass will push the funnel up to seal so the powder funnel will flare the brass and fill it with powder. Of coarse you will have to set the die for it to give you the correct out come.
 
I thought the funnel was too low. The empty shell plate does push up on the funnel. I was concerned that would drop a charge. After removing the powder dropper to really see it work , it seems the bar was not gonna move far enough to drop charge without a case. Still learning.

Thanks,
David.
 
You are going to love the 550 once you get it all set up, if you have any mis alignment/clocking when the shell is entering the dies you can remove the caliber conversion shell plate and underneath you will find two Allen screws that hold the base that the shell plate rides on to the ram, loosen the two Allen screws and clock the base so the shell plate sitting on top stops right where you want, there is a little play with the screws still in their holes and this play is all you will need to get the shells in perfect alignment when entering the dies..this may take a couple try's or it may be already perfect. Don't settle for having to lean shells into their die, it's an easy adjustment and once it's done they will run flawless forever, if you have to make this adjustment to get the shell plate clocked then the primer seater will probably rub on the push just adjust the primer feed bar in or out till it does not rub on the seat stroke and your done..10 min job to do both correctly and it'll be set for life. Dillon's dies are chamfered to allow a little more slop here but I have found using some of my favorite dies that these little adjustments make the press work just flawless..I've posted this elsewhere for others who may be new to Dillon 550 presses.
 
BTW, you can go and download the manual for your 550B press on the Dillon website, if you want a copy of the manual. Dillon also makes upgrade kits to upgrade to 550C specs too, if you want the latest and greatest stuff on your press.
 
That is good advice michpatroit. I watched a video, when I was getting started, from a guy in England. He had to tip every case into the die on the second station. It was the same problem I was having. It got me thinking and I loosend the jam nut and found the die had a small amount of play in the threads. I pushed the die to the outside and it solved that problem. Just something I remembered.It may come in handy later on.
 
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Mine has 2 links on the powder assembly. The motion of the powder bar is jerky, by design Dillon says, to ensure consistent powder drops.
 
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