New Revolver.... .41 Model 58..

[scout II]

Anyone know a good place for parts for N frame? I read though on the S&W part listing the spring and pin I am looking at is identical among the K, L and N frames so I hope it will be easier to find than grips.

I like Numrich Gun Parts Corp for parts.
Smith & Wesson Model 58 Parts | Gun Parts Corp.

 

[pbureau66]

I like Numrich Gun Parts Corp for parts.
Smith & Wesson Model 58 Parts | Gun Parts Corp.

yes! but they don't have the spring I need it seems.

 

[Vtgw938]

Ebay is a good source of S&W parts. You could also check Brownells. Ebay is great as others are often out of stock. Prices are reasonable as well.

 

[Muley Gil]

yes! but they don't have the spring I need it seems.

Send me a private message with your name & address and I'll mail you a rebound spring, free of charge.

 

[nutsforsmiths]

Jack First has S&W parts. Might want to check their site

 

[pbureau66]

Send me a private message with your name & address and I'll mail you a rebound spring, free of charge.

I truly appreciate the canarderie in this forum on the willingness to help, but at the reading of your message I had found and purchase a new one but thank you non the less.

I also found a set of PACHMAYR Rubber Grip that I think will do nicely for it.

now to wait for the mail to resume to receive these...

 

[stansdds]

Rubber grips certainly make control of the recoil with the magnum cartridges a lot easier. With rubber grips, remove them frequently to clean under them and keep the revolver's frame coated with oil or wax. Wood stocks will wick moisture away from the metal, but rubber has no water wicking capability and will hold moisture against the frame.

 

[glenwolde]

so, I asked the family (this is an inherited gun) about the history of the revolver, and as I was told the box in which the gun was in, was found in a Texas attic, in a box that was filled with clothes. boxes which were brought down from attic about 20 years after they had been forgotten up there. so yes, the "storage" was not proper at all and if you know how much humidity Houston has year-round. the pitting isn't terribly surprising.

The grips where nowhere to be found at all. I cannot answer what happens, again no one else in the family seems to know why no grips.

regarding the different colouring of the trigger, no one knows, except the pull on this trigger compared to the model 586 I also have is like half the pull required to fire the gun, so there may be something there I dont have the "pull tester" to give you a number, but the reset on the trigger is also about half of the very long 357 Magnum, so your likely correct it isn't factory as far as I can tell, but again I am not a S&W expert what so ever. and even less on revolvers.

I looked at previous image and notice alot of "yellow" showing I want to provide a better image and its all silver except those two items your correct (previous one seems to look like poor plating colour changes on the handle. which it isn't, it must be lighting at the time.

anyways, thank you very much, I'll be bringing it to my local gunsmith and see if it has been registered in his system, no one seems to know if it was or not. maybe he will have other insights about the trigger/hammer situation.

I'm not sure what you mean by: "I'll be bringing it to my local gunsmith and see if it has been registered in his system, no one seems to know if it was or not."

There's no gun registration system in Texas. Or do you mean to see if he's worked on it before himself?

I'm a .41 fan, and I also live in Houston. One needs to be a little careful taking S&W revolvers to "gunsmiths" these days. There are many that have very little experience with them. I'd be interested in knowing who you plan on taking it too. I have a couple I've used but I'm always looking to expand my list.

I'd restore that one for sure. I'll second the "Cowboy loads". If you aren't experienced with full power Magnum revolvers stick with the Cowboy stuff. I reload my own ammunition for it but my loads are equivalent to the Cowboy ones. As you can see the ammo is expensive.

 

[pbureau66]

I'm not sure what you mean by: "I'll be bringing it to my local gunsmith and see if it has been registered in his system, no one seems to know if it was or not."

There's no gun registration system in Texas. Or do you mean to see if he's worked on it before himself?

I'd be interested in knowing who you plan on taking it too. I have a couple I've used but I'm always looking to expand my list.

re: registration, I guess I meant to check if the gun had been reported stolen or something. last thing I need is a hot gun. After long conversations, no one seems to know really where the gun came to arrive in this 90-year-old man attic. maybe a brother-in-law, maybe a daughter maybe something else. and no one to recall.

I Figured not all gunsmiths would be able to handle older revolvers that is why I was going to go to my gun club (Athena Gun Club) they deal with a lot of older revolvers and military weapons, and I was going to get either get them to have a look at it or suggest a gunsmith. if not, I can always go talk to Cater country in Spring.

I think there may be something binding in the extractor, I have tried to figure out what it is, but I am at a loss. I ordered springs for the assembly and see from there.

 

[Hair Trigger]

I would clean it well, but would not even consider refinishing it. As a collectible, it's worth more with its damaged original finish than it would be with a non-factory refinish and I don't think S&W does nickel refinishes any more. Refinishing doesn't make it shoot better, and if it's not a collectible, then what is the point of refinishing for value? In the grand scheme of things, M58's were low production guns; only 20,287 or so total made between 1964-1977 and my guess would be maybe 1/4 of those are nickel. That makes yours relatively rare, so enjoy it like it is for what it is.

 

[okto]

Hey, thats my gun! I just bought this from pbureau a couple days ago and started tearing into it today.

I might actually believe the “never shot” story; the barrel and the charge holes are all mirrors and I can’t discern ay gas cutting at all on the top strap.

However, the reason the extractor is binding is that at some point whoever owned it before P dropped it on its nose and bent the yoke very badly. Oddly, though it bent the yoke pivot about a degree, it seems also to have bent the cylinder arbor the same amount, so the gun still cycles fine, minus a BC gap of “probably” and a very early bolt drop that is likely unrelated.

I’d like to restore rather than replace as much as possible, as the parts all have matching factory and serial numbers, and matching that nickel on a replacement yoke is going to be impossible. I’m a machinist by trade, with access to all the relevant cutting and metrology tools, and this will be, oh, the fifth revolver whose action I’ve repaired, timed, and tuned, so 8 look forward to the challenge of getting this old girl running right again.
I think I’ll start a new thread for the repair and restoration, but I wanted to chime in here for those interested in this gun to follow its journey.