New to me 28-2 cylinder slop and slight end shake. Any obvious fixes that you see in

[PresidentNixon]

Please see the video link below of my problem. For some reason you have to manually copy my link below as it isn't directly linking to where I posted it on Reddit-S&W Subredit Page.

Reddit - Dive into anything

Manual Copy & Paste Link
Reddit - Dive into anything

The cylinder wobbles to the left and right when the hammer is cocked back and when the hammer is forward?

Possible wear on the slots of the cylinder where the cylinder stop goes into?

Additionally, there’s a slight end shake as well moving front to back on the cylinder (I know I can fix that with cylinder shims).

Fixes for cylinder slop/wobble?

New cylinder? (possible wear where the indentations are for the cylinder stop seats in)

New cylinder stop/cylinder hand/cylinder stop stud?

 

[stansdds]

It's a S&W revolver, not a Colt, so the lock work and cylinder lock up are completely different. Colts, when the trigger is fully to the rear, lock the cylinder firmly into the frame. While some S&W revolvers do have exceptionally tight lock up, most do not. It is acceptable to have a little cylinder rotational play when the cylinder is closed and the trigger is pulled. If cylinder slop is excessive, an oversized stop can be fitted.


As for the fore and aft cylinder movement with the cylinder closed, that is end-shake and a little is required for smooth functioning. Ideal end-shake is 0.001", but S&W definitely considers up to 0.004" as acceptable.

 

[StrawHat]

Before you “fix” it, how does it shoot?

Kevin

 

[Tom S.]

Top link worked fine for me. As StrawHat said, before doing anything, try shooting it first and see how it does. If there is a problem, there is an excellent book by Jerry Kuhnhausen that provides all the info you need on proper repair.

 

[Greyman50]

I always pull the trigger while holding the hammer which I was taught the method to check lockup. Excessive end play in cylinder when Closed can lead to light hammer strikes and failure to ignite primer. Brownells and other have shims in .001”-.003” to remove excessive end play, easy to install. Nice looking 28, and yes, how does it shoot? Pics of target….

 

[alwslate]

Looking at the videos it looks to me like your side to side, rotational play is excessive. None of my S & Ws have that much and if any did I would fix it. I don't see much in the way of end shake though. Get the Kuhnhausen manual and fix it yourself.

 

[steelslaver]

If you can find a wider stop that fits through it slot it would help. But, it also looks like the back side of each stop notch is a bit peened. If you can feel a bit of raised metal there some light tapping with a small smooth face hammer will displace it back into the notch and tighten it up, Same goes for the edges of the cylinder stop slot

Model 28 and 27 have really heavy cylinders. When they are used in fast DA or are quickly cocked, as they turn to the next chamber the back side of the stop notch slams into the stop, and that can and will slowly displace the metal in the spots I mentioned., But, it isn't gone nor worn away. Just displaced. You can move it back.

PS, I agree with the shoot it before anything else. No need to fix what works well. There is a forcing cone for good reason.

I have an early 5 screw Highway patrolman. It has clearly fired a lot of rounds. The recoil shield has a case head mark in every spot one rides on it. Shoots great though. Trigger is like warm butter.