New to me Highway Patrolman...Next to the Last, Almost Final Update, Sept. 10th, 2016

les.b said:
Gunhacker:

I have been to Laurel Mountain Forge's web site, and they have a wealth of information there on stock refinishing, as well as the ability to buy their products. I was pleased to see that I was pretty much on track for finishing stocks, in their instructions they were suggesting many of the same things I was already doing.

I have ordered a small 4 oz size of the product that you suggested, as well as one of the stock finish, and will let you know how my next project works out!! I'll be happy to add these to my modest shop, and am looking forward to experimenting with them. I recommend that anyone who is interested in this sort of work go to their site and read the very detailed instructions on surface prep, application, finish technique and so forth.

Thanks again for the heads up!

Best Regards, Les
Click to expand...

Les,

You're going to enjoy using that Permalyn... I've been a hobbyist woodworker for over 40 years and have dabbled in using all sorts of finishes, and Permalyn has really turned my head, because it is not like the typical "plastic" polyurethane found on the shelf of big box stores.

A great classic book for gunstock finishing is "Gunstock Finishing and Care" by A. Donald Newell. It's long out of print but easily found on used book websites such as Alibris.com or abebooks.com for around $10 - $18 depending on condition, I learned a lot from it.
 
Old TexMex said:
Thats a sharp projct gun there Les, the big frame .38 I got into with heavy dutys, I may just have to find me a HP.
Very nice job. Great thread,
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TexMex:

Thanks... I've had a lot of fun not just with the gun, and cleaning it up and making it a project, but in learning from and interacting with the forum members. I sometimes check out the other forums, but this is the only one that I belong to. great folks here, and an awful lot of knowledge and talent, and willingness to share that knowlege with others.

I've just recently rediscovered the N frames, I only have a few, but am having a lot of fun with this one.

Best Regards, Les
 
No doubt you found a good deal. Like was said above, if you are satisfied with what you got for what you paid then you got a good deal.
Very nice gun.
 
Old TexMex said:
Purty work, WS.
Melody Maker pickups?

( sorry 'bout the drift);)
Click to expand...

No, those are Evans pickups. They are made for a Stratocaster sized opening. Jeff Healey was a big fan of them. I like them too.

I only had two of them, so that is how I made the pick guard. It turns out, that is all I needed!

PS I made the strap too!
 
Gunhacker said:
Les,

You're going to enjoy using that Permalyn... I've been a hobbyist woodworker for over 40 years and have dabbled in using all sorts of finishes, and Permalyn has really turned my head, because it is not like the typical "plastic" polyurethane found on the shelf of big box stores.

A great classic book for gunstock finishing is "Gunstock Finishing and Care" by A. Donald Newell. It's long out of print but easily found on used book websites such as Alibris.com or abebooks.com for around $10 - $18 depending on condition, I learned a lot from it.
Click to expand...

Conrad:

Well, the finish came in today, and this weekend I might just try to find a project to work on. Not sure that I want to "redo" all the effort that I put into this gun, but we'll see. Anyway, thanks again for the heads up. I'm going to look for that book soon, also, I deal with Abebooks all the time, and they are fantastic.

Best Regards, Les
 
Wow, DevilDog, what a beauty!!! And with the diamond grips as well. I'm sure that you will be very happy with it. One thing that I've noticed is how mild the recoil is, even with full power .357s, as compared with the Model 19 and 66 size frames, not to mention the little scandium J frames that I also have.

Very pleasant too shoot. Still makes a lot of noise, though!! I love mine. I'm sure that you'll love yours as well!!

Best Regards, Les
 
Les: GREAT Thread + FANTASTIC WORK !

...and I am a fan of nice wood with oil-finish, too. As can be seen above,
a bit oil even "shines up" a beautiful walnut guitar...

P.44
Always good shooting (+ playing) :)
 
P.44 said:
Les: GREAT Thread + FANTASTIC WORK !

...and I am a fan of nice wood with oil-finish, too. As can be seen above,
a bit oil even "shines up" a beautiful walnut guitar...

P.44
Always good shooting (+ playing) :)
Click to expand...

P.44:

Thanks for the kudos. At the suggestion of "Gunhacker's" post above, I now have a new oil finish to try out. I haven't decided whether to redo the stocks on this project, or wait for my next project gun. I have another gun on the way which I am thinking about doing a little restoration on. I've been struggling with the ethos of the "restoration" of older guns. In general, "rebluing" an older gun is not a good thing, as it actually diminishes the value and any historical value that an arm might possess. But a little judicial use of some bronze wool and oil to remove light rust is generally considered almost a necessity, as it prevents the rust from growing, as Hondo44 points out, like a cancer.

I think that the same care and a distinction between "refinishing", and "restoring" might yield an acceptable formula for what is permissible and what is not when cleaning up an older gun. I usually remove the sideplate and internals on a newly aquired Smith and scrub out the frame and each part, and inspect them for damage or any need of repairs, then lightly lubricate and reassemble the gun. Is this bad? I don't think so, we can't be expected to leave congealed lubricant in an older firearm, as it might even damage the gun when the action is worked.

So why not restore the stocks a little. Judiciously, and gently, and with some regard for preserving the gun for a future generation, or even for ones own future enjoyment??? In the above project, I think that if I were a better photographer, or you were to see them in person, that they actually look like they have a patina, and the more I handle them, the more they look like a well worn original finish, but yet the wood has been newly sealed and protected by the oil finish.

Just some random thoughts and ramblings about the whole "project gun" philosophy.

Best Regards, Les
 
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^^^ I would only add that any rubbing of the blued finish, even with bronze wool, will remove blueing. I like to just soak any rust spots with penetrating oil. Scrub it with a tooth brush if you must, but just let it soak. It will eventually break loose.
 
Warren Sear said:
^^^ I would only add that any rubbing of the blued finish, even with bronze wool, will remove blueing. I like to just soak any rust spots with penetrating oil. Scrub it with a tooth brush if you must, but just let it soak. It will eventually break loose.
Click to expand...

How do you soak the effected areas with penetrating oil? Do you totally immerse the gun in a tub or just place a oil soaked cloth on the area in question? I have been trying to find a better way to remove the small specks of rust that seem to come with every new purchase.
 
Warren Sear said:
^^^ I would only add that any rubbing of the blued finish, even with bronze wool, will remove blueing. I like to just soak any rust spots with penetrating oil. Scrub it with a tooth brush if you must, but just let it soak. It will eventually break loose.
Click to expand...

Warren:

Thanks for the tip. I am always learning new stuff, and appreciate all of the advice that I have garnered along the way here on the forum. I've seen some of your abilities in regards to building AKs, and even guitars!! You must have a great shop to perform some of these feats in as well.

To follow up C Brad Areow's query, though, how do you soak the area? With a rag? Or as he said, in a container filled with the oil? Or perhaps just squirt it on... I've noticed that with very penetrating oil, that it pre ads out quickly, and dissipates rapidly if you just squirt some on the rusted area.

Best Regards, Les
 
That is very helpful info. Thank you very much. What type/brand etc of penetrating oil do you find gives the best results?
 
I've been experimenting with "Kroil" brand penetrating oil. I had seen someone here on the forum recommend it, perhaps it was Hondo44. It seems to be really great for a lot of little projects. If you pull the sideplate off of an old hand ejector, you will likely find that old oil has congealed, and may even be loaded up with carbon and other products of the firing of the gun. A toothbrush and some Kroil will clean up this stuff in a jiffy. But to be fair, so will Hoppes Number 9, or CLP or lots of other stuff. My GF's dad once gave me a beautiful little Chiefs Special in nickle that he had inherited. It looked like it had never been fired, and was beautifully preserved on the outside, but you could barely pull the hammer back!!

When I removed the sideplate, someone had evidently used some type of oil that congealed very badly, and you could hardly get the parts to move. The gun may in fact have never been fired. I squirted some Hoppes in, and just let it soak over night, then scrubbed with a toothbrush, and gradually worked all of the parts out of the frame, and scrubbed them up individually. They looked brand new, no rust or corrosion. Lightly lubed, reassembled, and it was just like new.

But in its previous state, it could have been loaded, and given a false sense of security to someone, because there is no way it would have even fired!!

Best Regards, Les
 
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Les

Great buy on the 28! I'm even more impressed with your disassembly and assemply skills! Maybe someday I'll attempt!

Mark...............
 
MDB1056 said:
Les

Great buy on the 28! I'm even more impressed with your disassembly and assemply skills! Maybe someday I'll attempt!

Mark...............
Click to expand...

Mark:

Just a few cautions on disassembling the hand ejectors, if you have not done so. Properly fitting screwdrivers are a must, or you risk buggering up the sideplate and other screws. There are some threads and stickys here on the forum that can help you, I'll see if I can locate them and come back here and post links. There are acceptable ways to remove the sideplate to minimize the possibility of damaging it. Also, one must exercise care in removing and reassembling the internal parts to avoid damage. It's handy to have some spare sideplate screws to use if you are going to be assembling and reassembling the sideplate, to minimize wear on the original screws. Nothing, in my opinion is more unappealing than buggered up screws on a nice revolver! Also, properly fitting screwdrivers minimize the risk of slipping and scratching the finish of one of your cherished Smiths!

I seem to remember having a conversation with Hondo44 regarding the best screwdrivers to use in working on Smiths, and how to customize them to fit specific screws. I'll look for that thread as well.

Best Regards, Les
 
Mark:

I have been looking through some of the old threads as I promised, and I am going to quote here from "Big Cholla", who posts frequently on the forum regarding gunsmithing subjects. This is from a thread titled simply "screwdrivers", if you are interested. I personally am fond of the "Grace" brand screwdrivers, and they have a good reputation, and are nice to use, and of course can be custom ground to fit any given screw... But here is what Big Cholla has to say on the subject:

Big Cholla said:
I did my first professional gunsmithing job (I got paid) 61 years ago on a Browning O/U trap shotgun that had a broken ejector spring. The local 'Nationally Ranked Champion' trap shooter had a big meet the next day in Las Vegas. He called my Dad and asked who he knew who could do the replacement. My Dad recommend me. The man came over with the shotgun, a replacement spring and the exploded view of that shotgun. I ground two screwdrivers to the proper size and went to work. The trap shooter had never seen anyone regrind and reshape a screwdriver. He was amazed. He told my Dad that he knew 'gunsmiths' operating at trap meets that couldn't do that. My Dad said, "I taught him how". With that brag I have to say that Wheeler Engineering's Big Kit does 98% of anything I have ever needed on quality guns. Oh, I did break one Wheeler tip one time. I just set it back and the first time I needed a smaller tip for a special job, I reground and reshaped that tip. I have and have used Brownell's fixed blade driver set, the Chapman's, the DeWalt, the Craftsman, the Stanley and the Miller Falls sets. I have recently bought the mini-Wheeler set to specifically take to the Rifle and Pistol Range in my tool kit. All suit the purpose for general handy-man projects, but the Wheeler Kits are what I reach for when working on quality guns.

One small bon mot; The Wheeler allen wrench tips seem to be slightly undersized for some (not all) allenhead socket screws used on scope rings and mounts. That's ok, because I have others that do fit tightly. ........
Click to expand...

I'll keep looking for some specific guidance for removing sideplates and poking around inside of a handejector. They are all pretty much the same inside, so once you learn the basics, there is not much difference between the N, L, K, J, and I frames.

Again, please find out all you can before taking your gun apart...

Best Regards, Les
 
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