nitre blue on early S&W
- Thread starter iby
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The serial number of the cylinder, U484, doesn’t match that of the butt, 19775, and presumably other components. I’m guessing a very good reblue done at the time the cylinder was replaced, in order to make all components match.
Ian
If the serial # matched the assembly # that WOULD be cause for concern. Check your fine American
mmaher94087
Member
I'm skeptical. I do not believe this is original finish. The nitre blue screws are part of this. The striations to the metal under the blue on the barrel is enough to make me wary. Why does the muzzle look so corroded and why is there no photo of the bore or through the cylinder? I'd like to hold this one in hand.
I'll add that the toe of the left stock appears repaired and I think the front sight is blue over pits.
I'll add that the toe of the left stock appears repaired and I think the front sight is blue over pits.
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Rework
iby,
I agree with Mike,
Also, the Nitre or "fire bluing" on the screws is easy to restore or replicate. The process is simple. Resurface, clean, apply bluing, insert into blue flame until the "Fire bluing" turns the screw head this fabulous blue, pull out of the flame, then dip into oil while hot. That's exactly how they turn out. I've done it many times on restorations of nickel guns. The only trick is when to pull out of the flame and when to dip into oil for the best result.
The photos depict a bluing applied "over rust" all over the frame and barrel. That's exactly what it looks like. Rust is rust. It doesn't ever match the bluing. You can heat it, oil it, wipe it, sing to it, but it never turns blue. Only if you apply hot bluing over the rust will it turn blue like that.
There are different forms of restoration depending on the original condition of the gun to begin with. This gun in my opinion had spots of rust and only patches of original finish. So the person simply cleaned and lightly polished the surface and then applied a hot bluing leaving patches of rust still on the gun that worsened with time and started flaking off. That's exactly what you are seeing with this antique. It looks very nice but it's a restoration.
Murph
iby,
I agree with Mike,
Also, the Nitre or "fire bluing" on the screws is easy to restore or replicate. The process is simple. Resurface, clean, apply bluing, insert into blue flame until the "Fire bluing" turns the screw head this fabulous blue, pull out of the flame, then dip into oil while hot. That's exactly how they turn out. I've done it many times on restorations of nickel guns. The only trick is when to pull out of the flame and when to dip into oil for the best result.
The photos depict a bluing applied "over rust" all over the frame and barrel. That's exactly what it looks like. Rust is rust. It doesn't ever match the bluing. You can heat it, oil it, wipe it, sing to it, but it never turns blue. Only if you apply hot bluing over the rust will it turn blue like that.
There are different forms of restoration depending on the original condition of the gun to begin with. This gun in my opinion had spots of rust and only patches of original finish. So the person simply cleaned and lightly polished the surface and then applied a hot bluing leaving patches of rust still on the gun that worsened with time and started flaking off. That's exactly what you are seeing with this antique. It looks very nice but it's a restoration.
Murph
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Nitre Blue
Murph
As you(by your "LIKE") and MRCVS think this gun's serial# and assembly # should match, I will discount your expert opinions.
The pictures are taken with some filter or lighting that precludes accurate assessment of the finish. I should not have posted these crummy pics but wanted to see the reaction... Just what I expected
MMAHER
You are correct... Must be held in your hand
Murph
As you(by your "LIKE") and MRCVS think this gun's serial# and assembly # should match, I will discount your expert opinions.
The pictures are taken with some filter or lighting that precludes accurate assessment of the finish. I should not have posted these crummy pics but wanted to see the reaction... Just what I expected
MMAHER
You are correct... Must be held in your hand
Mikebiker
Member
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I have looked at this gun at least three times before deciding to post my opinion. I see the following. The screw hole on both sides of the barrel where the ejector rod is secured is dished. There are file marks on the left side of the trigger guard. Quite a few places show polishing marks running at a slight angle to part, Under the barrel, front grip strap, and the left side of the frame to name a few. The color in the pictures is off too far to judge the color of the rust spots as I have never seen rust that color before. You can't blue that type of rust. The gun has not been hot blued. The lines are very crisp and straight which is a good thing. The grips look a bit too bright but once again the color is off. One or two of the screws look polished before the blueing was done. As stated it needs to be examined in hand and for the person examining the gun to have a good working knowledge of what a near new condition gun of this model should actually look like.
Yes, you are correct! This model, unlike most later models, contains an assembly number on the cylinder and not a serial number. I stated that thinking this may why it was reblued, but it doesn’t matter WHY it was reblued, just that it was. Many areas with rust, pitting, etc with bluing within, which is clear evidence of a reblue, as others already stated.
I think you nailed it!
re-blue
iby,
My like' is in reference to the re-blue. I don't need to have this gun in hand. It's been re-worked. Again, it's a nice gun. Looks very nice. Great educational piece to evaluate and understand re-works more clearly. Also, how they can easily be incorrectly seen as original by many.
Murph
iby,
My like' is in reference to the re-blue. I don't need to have this gun in hand. It's been re-worked. Again, it's a nice gun. Looks very nice. Great educational piece to evaluate and understand re-works more clearly. Also, how they can easily be incorrectly seen as original by many.
Murph
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nitre blue
In my OP I was looking for opinions about the nitre blue accents on early S&W's. The thread took a negative turn (surprising) and I didn't get much feed back of a positive nature.
I found this recently completed auction and I'm interested to know if these nitre blue accents are legitimate (They are IMO)
Smith & Wesson No. 3 Second Model American Revolver Cut For Shoulder Stock
In my OP I was looking for opinions about the nitre blue accents on early S&W's. The thread took a negative turn (surprising) and I didn't get much feed back of a positive nature.
I found this recently completed auction and I'm interested to know if these nitre blue accents are legitimate (They are IMO)
Smith & Wesson No. 3 Second Model American Revolver Cut For Shoulder Stock
look and ye shall find
I guess I am answering my own question
Another one
Can they all be fake?
Excellent Smith & Wesson No. 3 Second Model American Revolver
I guess I am answering my own question
Another one
Can they all be fake?
Excellent Smith & Wesson No. 3 Second Model American Revolver
That is one beautiful revolver!
I’m thinking the photographs provided by the seller were not of sufficient quality to distinguish that areas of minor pitting were just that and not bluing within pitting following a reblue.
I hope I am correct in stating bravo on a nice purchase of an original First Model Russian.
I’m thinking the photographs provided by the seller were not of sufficient quality to distinguish that areas of minor pitting were just that and not bluing within pitting following a reblue.
I hope I am correct in stating bravo on a nice purchase of an original First Model Russian.
