Notch in double action pull / gunsmith term

dcnblues

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After finding out that S&W re-issued the same 586 I had in the 80's, I want to buy one. But one thing I want is the trigger job a gunsmith did to my original blue with 6" barrel: the double action pull was interrupted by a 'notch' in the pull, or something that let you feel and rest the spring against the place where a single action pull would be 'triggered.' It was a wonderful accuracy enhancer (especially for timed shooting like falling plate), and I've only just figured out this doesn't seem to have anything to do with either 'trigger stops' or 'internal stop rods.' So what, if any, would be the gunsmith term or language for such a modification?

*also, will it void my warranty? I'm guessing yes, but don't care.
 
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There is a way to get this effect by using a "mushy" trigger stop. Made from like a pencil eraser. The first stage is stopped by touching the eraser. The second stage, that trips the sear, is the "mush" -- the extra little movement that comes when the eraser is compressed slightly.

The eraser can be super glued to either the back of the trigger or to the frame behind the trigger. It sounds rinky-dink, but it works, it's easily reversible, and you don't need the services of a gunsmith to try it.
 
In my opinion, you don't need a gunsmith to get the results you are looking for.

Normally this practice is called double action staging, for some it's facilitated by putting your trigger finger farther onto the trigger, up to the hinge point between the first and second joints which allows more leverage and control...... then practice, practice, practice....

It's not hard to get to that point just before let-off, I've not found a S&W revolver, new or old that doesn't have it. Of course, it's easier if the trigger is standard width, either serrated or smooth. If you are trying to "stage" a target trigger, then that's a different story.

Target triggers don't normally lend themselves to double action shooting or staging.... unless you are gifted with huge hands with long fingers.
 
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Both of my new 686 Plus revolvers have excellent triggers, both in SA, and DA mode. I can hear, and feel the cylinder latch drop in, and I can stop, and stage it right there. Another short, smooth pull, and bang!

Maybe something to do with being a 7-shot?

My wife shoots the 4" in DA mode, and shoots better than me in SA. :o
 
I got an email back from Grant Cunningham that sounds right (see quote below). I don't understand why 'revolver shooters adopted the straight-through trigger pull' myself, but my guess would be that those who preferred lighter trigger pulls simply moved over to semi-autos in the 80's, and the revolver community ended up being comprised of those who don't mind or even prefer heavier and longer pulls. And the tuning technique I was lucky enough to stumble across circa 1984 was something of a guarded secret, and has since been largely forgotten.

It's been decades since I handled that 586, and my memory is that you can indeed accomplish that 'staged' pull on a stock gun, but it's delicate and easy to pull past it, especially if shooting under a time limit. The action tune I had done enhanced it to the point where it was effortless and reliable to hold it at that 'staged' part of the pull, and that's what made me love the gun. For all intents and purposes really, it converted it to a single action pistol. Certainly not as fast as a competitive double-action shooter, or a semi-auto, but I simply don't have any need or desire to shoot faster than about one round per second. My interest is being more accurate than the next guy, at long handgun range, easily and relatively quickly. Thanks for the help, it's much appreciated.

It's hard to say exactly what he did without having the gun in hand, but it's possible to time a S&W in such a way that the cylinder locks up and the hand bypasses the ratchet (star) at just the right point to provide a bit of a plateau in the trigger feel. There are other things that can be done with the lockwork to enhance the effect.

It was a fairly common tuning style in the 1950s through perhaps the '70s, but as revolver shooters adopted the straight-through trigger pull it mostly disappeared.
 
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There is a way to get this effect by using a "mushy" trigger stop. Made from like a pencil eraser. The first stage is stopped by touching the eraser. The second stage, that trips the sear, is the "mush" -- the extra little movement that comes when the eraser is compressed slightly.

The eraser can be super glued to either the back of the trigger or to the frame behind the trigger. It sounds rinky-dink, but it works, it's easily reversible, and you don't need the services of a gunsmith to try it.
I'm no expert, just an aging gun nut who has seen a few things, including a few PPC guns, even one or two posted in just the last few days. Not only does the Kernel's suggestion have a lot of advantages and no drawbacks that I can see, it was actually what was done by many of the BEST gunsmiths.

I would recommend giving it a try.
 
I have a PPC gun made on a model 14-4 action that is set up this way. It seems to lock up in DA earlier than most smiths and the little extra umph fires the gun. Fun to shoot DA.

Charlie
 
I only own 2 PC revolvers a 627-5 and a 629 V Comp and both have a very easily felt trigger staging spot. I also have a 686-6 + with the same trigger feel. All had this characteristic from the factory. I also have a couple of other 629s that I can stage but the effect is not nearly as pronounced.
The rest of the pack, mostly N frames from mid-70s to IL MIM models have no trigger staging at all. I use the 627 in competition, Steel Challenge and ICORE. I find it an advantage, if I have the adrenaline under control and am able to use the technique. LOL.
 
Yes I can feel the cylinder stop and hand stop on my 627-5 from the Factory

Sent from my SM-S975L using Tapatalk
 
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