NOW MIGHT BE THE TIME FELLAS & GALS.......

[chief38]

To start learning to repair, maintain and replace parts on older out of production S&W models. I also think that procuring common parts such as screws, springs, hammer noses, over sized hands, cylinder stops, etc. might be prudent.

Every day that goes by it becomes more & more difficult and expensive to ship guns, harder to find really good Gun Smiths who have access to old parts, and to wait for months and months until you finally get your gun back.

There are some here who should probably never remove a single screw from a gun, but I am basically talking to the many here who do have the potential and willingness to do so - now might be the time.....

Most gun repairs are relatively simple and can be done with simple tools and descent skills as long as one has the desire to learn. Most parts are still available (at least for the time being) and especially for the Fellas on the younger side, now might be the time to procure the common wear parts and parts that seem to get lost (screws, small springs, etc.) since you will be in this for the long term. PS: I am not talking about intricate repair jobs here - just simple, relatively easy common wear, common loss and common breakage scenarios. And YES - tiny spring and screws do play "hide and seek" many times. LOL!

At this time, "how to" books and video's are still legal and available (for how long I do not speculate) - but they are relatively inexpensive now.

Again, I'm not directing this to the Fellas & Gals who can hardly screw in a light bulb, but for the many here who have the potential and have just never wanted to be bothered, now might be the time! Just saying.......

 

[rjm6120]

I agree. I have been on the lookout for miscellaneous this-and-that S&W parts, and have procured a very small stash of them, some being multiples of the same part. I've also obtained the Kuhnhausen S&W repair book off of Amazon about a year ago.
I once was pretty timid about dissecting a S&W revolver, but now I can almost do it in my sleep. My greatest enjoyment comes from rescuing old, neglected S&W revolvers and trying to breathe life back into them with just a very thorough, detailed cleaning.
Other more in-depth repairs, such as fixing timing issues, I am still green on but definitely willing to learn. Besides the satisfaction of being able to do these types of repairs, it's fun!

 

[JohnHL]

When was it ever NOT the time to learn self sufficiency, Chief?

But yes, I agree with your post.

John

 

[HorizontalMike]

When was it ever NOT the time to learn self sufficiency, Chief?
But yes, I agree with your post.
John

Precisely!

Already have that covered for my revolvers and pistols. My SportII is barely a year old, and I have not decided just what I need/want to do about replacements/repairs.
And yes, I agree with the OP.

 

[Toyman]

To me the hardest part to find is a hand slightly larger than the one currently in the gun. Used to be able to order by .001 but no more.
I purchased a .095 to keep on hand.

 

[chief38]

Yes - it's always a good time to learn self sufficiency. That said, in prior times it was not all that difficult to send a firearm out to a reputable GS and have him do his thing. It is now becoming very difficult and quite expensive to do so. Also parts are becoming more and more scarce as well as ridiculously expensive. Not saying we should be getting every part in every gun - just the common ones that break, get lost or wear out - where as yesteryear this was not as crucial to keeping an old gun going.

 

[armorer951]

Since the manufacturers have bailed in terms of support for many of our older firearms, another viable solution to the "wear and tear" problem, along with learning to repair these systems ourselves, is to return the part to original specs using micro-welding. Micro-welding allows the bearing surfaces on worn parts to be built back up to pre-fitting levels, so that the part can be restored to proper function by re-fitting.

Seems as though certain parts lend themselves to this strategy better than others.....particularly parts that are expensive, or are no longer in production, etc. Hands, extractor ratchets , the hook on the trigger (that interfaces with the cylinder stop), cylinder stop slots, and a few others.
Please look into this option before you discard your old parts. With a little effort and some hand tools, you can learn how to rehab and repair your old revolvers yourself. Once you learn one S&W revolver inside and out, most of the information applies across the board, as the models share a common operating system.

Good advice about learning proper techniques and sourcing tools is available from experienced people here on the forum, and through books and other reliable sources.

Tony South at Micro-Precision welding is a great example of a craftsman who can assist in returning unfit and worn parts to service.

TIG Welding, Micro Tig Welding, Mold Welding, Micro Laser Welding | Micro Precision Welding

 

[jbtrucker]

I reassembled my 19-2 and it works but no way will take apart my 5906. Bought extra 3rd Gen parts and Wolff spring service pack several years ago. Also have extra M&P 1.0 , 2.0 RSA, strikers and mag springs

 

[armorer951]

If you can learn re-assemble a K model S&W from scratch, you can also learn to strip and re-assemble a model 5906. The de-cock models are very difficult, the others are very doable.

 

[jack the toad]

As days/years go by, parts for old out of production guns become more scarce and more expensive, especially for factory originals. Companies like Power Custom can help but it wouldn't hurt to acquire some items if/when you find and can afford them.

 

[ContinentalOp]

I kinda learned that the hard way after breaking the hammer nose on a 3" 65-3. I couldn't find a replacement, S&W not only stopped making them but no longer kept them in inventory, and it took me a couple of tries before I found a gunsmith who had the part and could do the work.

Even though they're still in production, I did get a replacement firing pin for my 642-1, just in case.

And that was one of the reasons I started carrying a 1911. While I've done some parts changes on my Berettas (92FS and PX4 Compact), I haven't ventured into detail-stripping either one. On the other hand, I can detail strip and re-assemble my 1911s without difficulty (well, except for the Gold Cup sear depressor... ). There's just something about carrying a gun I know to that level of familiarity. I haven't replaced any parts requiring fitting, but I think it's something I could with guidance and patience, as well as the right tools. Lately been thinking about installing a drop-in beavertail and an extended thumb safety, maybe swapping out the rear sight.

 

[Browns fan]

What would be wise for me to start looking for as far as parts i'm into 686s 681s and 28s thanks

 

[chief38]

What would be wise for me to start looking for as far as parts i'm into 686s 681s and 28s thanks

This would apply to the Revolvers that get shot on a regular basis. If your Revolvers have a Firing Pin that is attached to the Hammer then I'd look for a spare Nose & Nose Rivet. I'd also look for a standard & oversized Hand & Spring, a few different weight Rebound Springs, Side Plate Screws, Strain Screw, Cylinder Stop and Spring, and an extra Screw for the Grips. Depending on your financial situation, the next level of parts I'd keep on hand are replacement Hammers, Triggers, and maybe an Ejector Rod - although most times a bent one can easily be straightened out. These should cover many of the commonly lost, worn or improvement parts replacements. Remember, sometimes a small screw, spring or part simply gets lost - and while you may eventually find it, you want the ability to get said gun back in working order.

The great thing about procuring these parts is that even if you never need or replace one, they will only get more valuable and will probably be a better investment than money in the Bank - LOL!

 

[smithra_66]

EVERYONE should learn to do repairs or maintenance on their guns (just like their cars, or anything else).

EVERYONE should reload their own ammo.

We live in a world where outsourcing is easy...until it's not. Bring whatever you can IN-HOUSE!

 

[white cloud]

This is very wise advice.

You might be well served to have "spare parts kits" for the other firearms you use as well as some basic gunsmith tools. I would not overlook magazines either. Good gunsmiths around here are typically old and getting ready to retire. I don't expect this situation to improve.

 

[Ron IL]

Us older guys grew up in a time when you did all of your own work. Now days the stuff is too complicated for the average home guy with all of the electronics that run everything. And the young people don't learn anything about repair. It is just toss it and buy a new one or take it to someone to work on. When I get a gun I plant to keep forever I buy extra springs and parts for it and put them in the box the gun came in. Really handy when you are messing with a gun and a spring goes boing and gone. I've seen people on the forums actually taking a gun to a gunsmith to clean it. I clean mine after every trip. Sometimes 5 days a week. That would get expensive paying someone to clean it. I guess some people stuck in a small apartment in a city don't have that option. The cleaning and reloading is just part of the fun of shooting to me.

 

[ContinentalOp]

This is very wise advice.

You might be well served to have "spare parts kits" for the other firearms you use as well as some basic gunsmith tools. I would not overlook magazines either. Good gunsmiths around here are typically old and getting ready to retire. I don't expect this situation to improve.

I pretty much consider magazines as consumables, so I try to make sure I have plenty. I have 10 mags for my 92, 6 mags for my PX4, and 3 mags that I've tested for reliability with my 1911s (I have others, but have not used them with JHP). I try to have carry mags and training mags; training mags get all the abuse.

I've got some basic tools. Gunsmith screwdriver set, armorer's block, roll-pin punches, small hammer, etc. As money becomes available, I'll try to expand that, and add some small parts and springs as back-ups.

 

[Baltimoreed11754]

The 'rule of threes' applies to firearms too.

 

[BigBill]

I purchased every how to dvd on the 1911a1's I feel if I own them I better know how to repair them. I purchased just about every 1911 tool from brownells. I have a well used norinco 1911a1 I want to build. I watched all the DVDs over and over. I purchased a new USGI surplus barrel, national match barrel bushing, FLGR Kit, adjustable trigger and went to work.

Being a x auto/Jeep/truck mechanic, class a machine builder, lead engineering tech, I feel up to the challenge.

First I fitted the nm barrel bushing to the slide, next the barrel to the bushing, note, nothing is square in the world. I fitted the barrel for 100% lock up but it needs to hinge down on the link to load the round from the mag then go up into full battery at a 100% lockup. With no barrel spring in either direction. Assemble the slide and check for the depthness of the barrel lug engagement to the slide lug slots. If there within spec and you can't push down on the chamber of the barrel in full battery it's ok. Otherwise you may need a longer link. Tune the extractor. I added the disconnector ramp on the bottom of the slide this removes that bump as the slide cycles. Adjust the trigger for less creep.

Test fire, she shoots clusters and cloverleafs at 25 yds 1 1/2" groups at 25 yds. I didn't touch the frame rails.

My point is you can do this. Lott's of information online plus DVDs you can learn from. We never stop learning.

After building my norinco I remembered I had a '90 SA series 90 1911a1 sitting in the safe over a decade because it stove piped 1 rd per mag. I had other guns to shoot. I looked at it and the extractor was unsprung. It didn't hold the fired case. Fixed it within minutes.

I'm moving on to revolvers now.

 

[BigBill]

Im working on shimming my s&w revolvers. To center the hammer and trigger, so there's no unwanted side forces that can cause friction and wear when it rubs against the frame. Lube all the moving parts with moly.