Observations of new 686MG

[BoulderTroll]

Now that I finally have my new 686MG home, I can compare it much better to my new Model 10. With them side by side, I have noticed some fairly significant differences in the actions:

The Model 10 has a very heavy DA and SA pull, but it is crisp, and already feels a tiny bit lighter and much smoother than when I bought it. The 686MG, by contrast has a VERY light DA trigger and almost non-existent SA pull, but it has way more clicking sounds going on either during a slow double-action pull or single-action cocking. And when I manually cock the 686, if I rest my finger on the trigger (or place my thumb on the back of the hammer, pushing forward), there is a very distinct click, and slight movement.

Another difference is that the little machined notches (not sure the name) on the star that some folks have complained about being machined very rough, with jagged edges, are rough on the 686. On the Model 10 they are absolutely gorgeous and pristine. All in all, I'm happy with both guns, and I'm not overly concerned, especially since I haven't shot either of them yet. I'll report back once I've had them out to the range.

 

[SixgunFife]

Congrats on the 686MG and looking forward to future reports on it. That gun definitely got my attention when it was announced.

 

[Yendor357]

Very light is not a standard unit of measure. Buy a trigger pull gauge and give us some real numbers.

A few weeks ago, I bought a very slightly used M69 that has a 2 pound, 15 ounce SA pull. It had the slight click that you describe. I shot the 69 some. Dry fired it a lot. Try as I might, I can’t get it to click anymore. The click is gone. It just needed to be broken in.

DA on the 69 is about 9 pounds, really smooth. I can’t shoot DA worth a hoot.

 

[BoulderTroll]

Very light is not a standard unit of measure. Buy a trigger pull gauge and give us some real numbers.

A few weeks ago, I bought a very slightly used M69 that has a 2 pound, 15 ounce SA pull. It had the slight click that you describe. I shot the 69 some. Dry fired it a lot. Try as I might, I can’t get it to click anymore. The click is gone. It just needed to be broken in.

DA on the 69 is about 9 pounds, really smooth. I can’t shoot DA worth a hoot.

Nah, I'm too cheap to get a trigger pull gauge.

But funny you should say that about the click being gone...mine is now as well. I've dry-fired it about 100 times, and I also did the suggestion an armorer mentioned in another thread of putting slight forward pressure on the hammer while dry-firing single-action, to "marry" the parts, and now I can no longer get that click to appear either. I think you're right, it just needed to settle in a bit.

And for what it's worth, I'm horrible at DA as well. I once competed in PPC, but that was using a highly tuned gun, and I'm very much out of practice.

 

[bigggbbruce]

Now that I finally have my new 686MG home, I can compare it much better to my new Model 10. With them side by side, I have noticed some fairly significant differences in the actions:

Another difference is that the little machined notches (not sure the name) on the star that some folks have complained about being machined very rough, with jagged edges, are rough on the 686. On the Model 10 they are absolutely gorgeous and pristine.

I am one that mentions how the extractor is finished or lack of on the Stainless guns. Carbon steel guns as you noted are pristine.

I've had SS guns with absolutely gritty nasty double action pull (you can feel it SA), carefully clean those remaining burrs, Goes to a nice smooth pull.

 

[PHS327]

Nah, I'm too cheap to get a trigger pull gauge.

But funny you should say that about the click being gone...mine is now as well. I've dry-fired it about 100 times, and I also did the suggestion an armorer mentioned in another thread of putting slight forward pressure on the hammer while dry-firing single-action, to "marry" the parts, and now I can no longer get that click to appear either. I think you're right, it just needed to settle in a bit.

And for what it's worth, I'm horrible at DA as well. I once competed in PPC, but that was using a highly tuned gun, and I'm very much out of practice.

Put the UNLOADED gun in a padded vise with the barrel facing up. Tie a string to a bucket handle and loop it through the trigger guard resting on the trigger and then back to the bucket handle and tie so that the bucket is suspended in air below the gun with all it's weight on the trigger. Put stuff in the bucket until the the gun dry fires. Remove bucket and string with the stuff still in it and weigh it. That's your trigger gauge.

 

[bigggbbruce]

Put the UNLOADED gun in a padded vise with the barrel facing up. Tie a string to a bucket handle and loop it through the trigger guard resting on the trigger and then back to the bucket handle and tie so that the bucket is suspended in air below the gun with all it's weight on the trigger. Put stuff in the bucket until the the gun dry fires. Remove bucket and string with the stuff still in it and weigh it. That's your trigger gauge.

I like the McGiver approach

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

Put the UNLOADED gun in a padded vise with the barrel facing up. Tie a string to a bucket handle and loop it through the trigger guard resting on the trigger and then back to the bucket handle and tie so that the bucket is suspended in air below the gun with all it's weight on the trigger. Put stuff in the bucket until the the gun dry fires. Remove bucket and string with the stuff still in it and weigh it. That's your trigger gauge.

I don't really want to know that bad.............