Okay, I'm confused - J Frame vs. K Frame, etc.

accessbob

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I'm confused (which is not surprising) :confused: and can't seem to figure this out.

What are the characteristics which define a J-Frame, K-Frame, etc. I'm lost in all of the Frames that are available and how one identifies them. I want to learn. I've tried some searches and looking at pictures of the different ones that have been identified but I just don't have a clear vision of the characteristics of each one.
 
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Mash here. This may help you or confuse you a little.

Smith & Wesson model changes
Sorry, I think that just made me more confused. It shows what models are what frame but it doesn't explain what the frame differences are (at least that I could see). In other words, I think what I'm looking for is the visual characteristics which make up each "frame" as I've read posts where people show something and someone else immediately states, "that's a nice K-Frame." Maybe I'm reading too much into it but I would think that there are some visual characteristics to help identify. But then again, maybe it is just the knowledge of the models and which frame each uses.
 
Size. They are all different frame sizes. I just happened to have this picture available, from the bottom, is an "I" (just a tad smaller than a "J" Frame. In the middle a "K" frame, the most common mid. sized frame, and at top is a "N" frame, (prior to the newer 500 magnum the largest size frame).
IMG_1726.jpg


Hope that helps.
 
Maybe it will help to look at this historically. When the hand ejector era came to the company, S&W made guns in .22. 32, .38 and .44 calibers. There were specific frame sizes designed to handle each gun -- M, I, K and N respectively. Eventually the tiny M frame was retired, and the company produced .22 revolvers on the same frame as their .32 offerings (and eventually, after 1930, on the mid-sized K frame as well). Sometimes, when there seemed to be demand for a compact gun in a larger caliber, the shift went the other direction. The .38 Regulation Police, for example, found a way to shoe-horn the .38 S&W round into the space available in an I frame revolver.

After WWII the I-frame underwent some minor modifications and dimension changes, after which it became the J frame. But The K and N frames, leaving aside minor engineering modifications, have been pretty much the same size since their introduction.

Basically the distinction between frames will amount to the distinction between small, medium and large. In the last few decades the huge X frame has been introduced at the top end, and the 'tweener L frame (between K and N) was introduced primarily to handle the .357 Magnum that was sometimes just too much cartridge for the standard K frame models.

ADDENDUM: Well I see while I was writing that some better illustrations of frame differences popped up.
 
It has to do with the size of the frame. S&W uses a lettering system to identify the size of their revolver frames; J is a small size frame, K is a medium size frame, L is a medium plus size, N is a large size frame, and X is the largest size frame. There have been others, but this is what the current ones are.

As S&W was developing these frames, the size of the frame was generally related to the power/caliber of the cartridge the frame was designed for and/or the number of chambers in the intended cylinder. For example: The J frame was developed for five shot standard .38 Special or smaller cartridges, while the N frame was developed for six shot .45 caliber or smaller. This is not a “hard and fast” rule though. For example the .357 magnum was first used in the N frame because there was a concern that the higher operating pressures of the .357 Magnum might damage the K frame of the time; but with the development of better metallurgy for the steel used in firearms, by the late 1950s K frames were developed that could withstand .357 Magnum pressures.

For those of us fairly (or greatly) familiar with S&W revolvers, all we have to do is see the frame and we know what frame size it is because we can mentally recall how all the frame sizes compare.

Hope this helps.
 
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Trigger guards, ejector shrouds (if the gun in question has one) are all visual characteristics to look at. An ejector shroud on a model 19 is gonna look smaller (without a gun to compare it to) than one on a model 28, for example. Also, the trigger guard on a J frame has a slightly different contour than does a K or N or L. I do believe it is also slightly different between K and N frames, as well. I could be mistaken of course, I only recently contracted this whole s&w disease.
 
Thanks to everyone for the posts. I haven't had time to sit and try to digest the information yet but I will do so hopefully at least sometime this weekend. I do appreciate everyone here and am looking forward to increasing my gun knowledge.
 
In women's physique terms--

I was a J frame in high school before before I got married. After kids, I became an N frame. Since dieting and hitting the gym, I'm now an L frame. I know I'll never be a J again, but working on getting to a K. And never on your life will I be an X frame.

Thought I'd add to the confusion :D
 
In women's physique terms--

I was a J frame in high school before before I got married. After kids, I became an N frame. Since dieting and hitting the gym, I'm now an L frame. I know I'll never be a J again, but working on getting to a K. And never on your life will I be an X frame.

Thought I'd add to the confusion :D

Now that is funny!!!!!

The best way to know the difference in frame size is to have one of each side by side to compare them. They all look the same in a pic unless you're a sick S&W addict! LOL

John
 
Now that is funny!!!!!

The best way to know the difference in frame size is to have one of each side by side to compare them. They all look the same in a pic unless you're a sick S&W addict! LOL

John

In all seriousness, a point of reference or something to help gauge size always helps. I have a difficult time estimating measurements, as all my life I've been lied to about the length of 8 inches.
 
In all seriousness, a point of reference or something to help gauge size always helps. I have a difficult time estimating measurements, as all my life I've been lied to about the length of 8 inches.

OK, you are cracking me up!!

John
 
Once you get your head wrapped around the frame sizes, it'll be time to move on to the model numbers. Post grad studies include dash number engineering changes, different grips, and pinned, recessed, different hammers, triggers, short action, long action, etc.
 
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