older I/J frame

[darkside]

have older I frame or J frame (pre mod 34 ? ) need to know
how to remove firing pin spent some to bucks to get extractor
parts replaced (our gunsmith charged me way to much)
now does't fire firing pin does'nt strike rounds hard enough
to fire round eparts has parts but I do not how to remove
firing pin and parts therein

thanks Jim

 

[Green Frog]

have older I frame or J frame (pre mod 34 ? ) need to know
how to remove firing pin spent some to bucks to get extractor
parts replaced (our gunsmith charged me way to much)
now does't fire firing pin does'nt strike rounds hard enough
to fire round eparts has parts but I do not how to remove
firing pin and parts therein

thanks Jim

What was going on with the gun before you had to "get extractor parts replaced" by your gunsmith? If you aren't sure which model and variation you have, trying to start changing parts will at best lead to frustration as there can be small differences in otherwise similar parts, and some of these parts need hand fitting even with the correct part!

First you should definitively identify the model, then if you don't know what to do yourself, find a gunsmith you can trust to do what is needed and perhaps undo whatever was done by the previous gunsmith. I would have changed a bunch of parts on any I- or J-frame that was having action/misfire problems before I even thought about changing an extractor or firing pin unless said parts were obviously damaged, but you're there and I'm here.

Froggie

PS Where are you? Perhaps some of our members can help you out or recommend a good gunsmith who understands S&W revolvers.

 

[DCWilson]

First, I agree with Froggie.

Second, if you want to charge ahead anyway, look at the Model 34 diagram on the Numrich web site for the way parts 36, 37, 38 and 39 go together. All I-, J- and K-frame S&W .22s had frame-mounted firing pins. There is a small pin at the top rear of the frame right in front of the hammer and under the rear sight that must be driven out. That retains the firing pin assembly and allows removal of the separate parts. I have never done this, so I don't know if there are tricks or special circumstances you need to be aware of. If you decide to try this yourself, it makes sense to disassemble inside a shoebox to try to restrain small pieces; also keep a large magnet handy to drag the carpet in case a small piece hits the floor despite your best intentions.

If this gun was at all neglected, there may be a problem with grime or rust inside the firing pin assembly. Drizzle a little solvent in from both the rear and front, then a little light oil after the solvent has had a chance to do whatever it is going to. Often guns with possible action problems need a good cleaning more than they need replacement parts.

 

[H Richard]

If this gun fired reliably before, it should work now. If the gunsmith replaced the extractor, find out if you can get back the original extractor. If the new one is a few thousandths thinner, it could possibly move the rim that much further from the firing pin. If there was minimal firing pin contact previously, it may have moved just beyond the needed reach.

 

[Hondo44]

Jim,
#1 you hav an I frame if it is not stamped with a model #. Give us a serial number to pin it down further. When you say the extractor was replaced, do you mean the rod or the 'star' in the cylinder with the ratchet teeth?

I would not mess with the firing pin at this point!

 

[darkside]

thanks for the reply guys
please see my thread (darkside) 3-10-2010 recieved this weapon
with parts missing replaced front end parts fired a few times
but starting missfiring open cylinder pullback latch cock and
fire weapon have finger over firing pin hole cannot feel pin when hammer drops

 

[darkside]

did not replaced "star" all parts have orginal serial#
thanks again
Jim

 

[deansdream]

I am new and can't navigate website after trying and trying. I have no clue as to the difference between and I/J. I have a 5 shot .38spl 1 7/8" bbl. no mdl # five digit serial on yoke body and frame w/ odd cyl release thumb piece. can anyone refer me to a mdl/date. thanks

 

[Hondo44]

did not replaced "star" all parts have orginal serial#
thanks again
Jim[/QUnOTE]

Jim,
Pull the trigger until the hammer snaps but don't release the trigger. While still holding the trigger all the way back, look in the gap behind the cylinder; if you can not see the firing pin sticking thru the breechface, you do indeed have a firing pin problem.
Now open the cylinder. Hold cylinder latch all the way to the rear with your left thumb. Now cock the hammer and snap it again and hold the trigger to the rear. Release the cyl latch and look in the firing pin hole with a flashlight. You can tell by the shape of the hole if you have a round or rectangular firing pin tip. Do you see a smooth or a jagged tip? Is there a smooth indentation on your fired case heads or jagged dent?

If both are smooth you may just have rust and/or gunk in the firing pin pocket. Flood it with gun cleaner spray like Breakfree Powder Blaster or WD-40 and see if it fires reliably. If jagged, you need a new firing pin as you suspected. There's a round firing pin tip and a rectangular one. Be sure to get the right one. If you have pin punches, you can drive out the two pins to replace it. You may have two rounded tip pins that stick out or one round and one flush. You'll need a cupped tip punch for the rounded and flat tip for a flush pin; both pin punches need to be slightly smaller then the pin holes.
Or take it back to the gunsmith.

 

[Hondo44]

I am new and can't navigate website after trying and trying. I have no clue as to the difference between and I/J. I have a 5 shot .38spl 1 7/8" bbl. no mdl # five digit serial on yoke body and frame w/ odd cyl release thumb piece. can anyone refer me to a mdl/date. thanks

Welcome to the forum!

Your gun was made between 1953 and 1966 based on your description. With more info I can pin it down more like the serial # (or front half at least) and how many screws in the sideplate including the one under the grip panel.

All 38 Special 5 shot guns are 'J' frames in the period of your gun. Early ones between 1950 and c. 1953 have an 'I' frame size trigger guard and grip frame called "Baby Js", a collector term. After '53 they have a normal J frame look with larger trigger guards and longer grips but have the odd cyl thumbpiece you refer to known as a "flat latch", another unofficial term.

Only the 22s, 32s & 38 S&W cartridges were made on the 'I' frame.


Thanks to BlackAgnes here are a few pix to help illustrate the differences between "I" and "J" frame revolvers from this thread:
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-hand-ejectors-1896-1961/184543-neat-little-22-kit-gun-2.html

This is a comparison of a modern Model 63 Kit Gun "J-Frame" (top), and a Kit Gun Model of 1953 "I-Frame" (bottom). Note the differences in frame length in front of the trigger guard and the cylinder length.

This shows the difference between a pre-war true I-Frame Kit Gun (top) and a Model of 1953 I-Frame (bottom). The earlier gun has a leaf mainspring.

These pictures compare, (top) a "Transitional" I frame Kit Gun made postwar with pre-war features, such as a leaf mainspring, no barrel rib, and pre-war sights with an I frame Model of 1953" below it. This "Transitional" gun was actually shipped a year after the Model of 1953 pictured!

Here are a pair of Kit Guns both Model of 1953 I frames, top is a three-screw and the other is a four-screw--they are otherwise identical except for barrel length. There was a choice of round or square grip frames.