Older Revolver - Need Help Identifying

Joined
Nov 17, 2023
Messages
1
Reaction score
13
I inherited this revolver & could use some help identifying it. I am not a gun guru but do enjoy shooting & concealed carry. After reading the helpful tips, I'll do my best to help you help me. Barely visible on left hand side of barrel is:

44 S & W CTG

Serial on butt: 42221
Barrel length: 6"
Top Break Auto shell extractor with Fixed Sight.

The handle is a plastic, which I find odd if the gun is extremely old ( or the handle was replaced over time ) ( ? ).
Strain screw on front grip strap.
I need to clean the gun thoroughly. It looks to be in "rough" condition with the finish wear

Thank you in advance for anyone's insight into the make, model, year, ballpark value range ( if possible from pictures ) etc.
 

Attachments

  • 20231117_103007.jpg
    20231117_103007.jpg
    129.5 KB · Views: 195
  • 20231117_103035.jpg
    20231117_103035.jpg
    123.2 KB · Views: 140
  • 20231117_103113.jpg
    20231117_103113.jpg
    79 KB · Views: 153
  • 20231117_103133.jpg
    20231117_103133.jpg
    140.1 KB · Views: 179
  • 20231117_103201.jpg
    20231117_103201.jpg
    112 KB · Views: 114
Register to hide this ad
Hi There,

what you have is a 44 Double Action First Model or "New Model
Navy No. 3 Revolver." The nickel finish is still in very good
condition so be careful when cleaning it (NO steel wool!).

Cheers!
Webb
 
Welcome! The correct ID is above.

The stocks are hard rubber, or official name “gutta percha”. Likely original to the gun but fragile with age.

Agree with a gentle cleaning to start, no heavy abrasives or pressure.
 
The 'handle' is hard rubber. These can be broken easily when removing them from the frame. In addition to the 'stock' screw (stock: S&W lingo for handle or grips) there is a blind pin at the bottom center which, if the stocks are removed wrong, will break out at the bottom.

Edit: the cartridge is .44 S&W Russian and is available for cowboy action shooting.
 
Last edited:
Can not stress the dont does to much. Dont clean, just wipe off with oil.
And no wool of any kind. For that matter, no screw drivers, punches or hammers. And above all, leave the grips alone. All of us on the Forum have seen to many guns ruined by over zealous cleaning. Hope I made my point. You have a nice old gun.
 
The stocks are hard rubber, or official name “gutta percha”. Likely original to the gun but fragile with age.

I hate to be that guy, but these grips are technically a hard rubber and not gutta percha.

"Gutta percha" proper is a thermoplastic latex that's derived from the gutta percha tree. It was (and to a lesser degree, still is) used extensively for a variety of reasons, but it has a fundamental problem in that it degrades over time (Clifford Krainik's excellent book about Union Cases goes into great detail about this).

Smith & Wesson used several different thermoplastics in the 19th century; they tended to be derived from rubber. Not coincidentally, Charles Goodyear (who patented vulcanized rubber) first established his operations in Springfield. Rubber has a much longer shelf life than gutta percha, which is why the grips on this revolver have endured well over a hundred years of wear as well as they have.

The "gutta percha" cases that Model 1s were shipped in were made from a different thermoplastic (shellac) and sawdust. The sawdust made that composition pretty fragile, which is why those cases are often chipped and cracked.

Mike
 
Last edited:
NO steel wool, I agree with---100%. No wool of any kind, I don't.

Bronze Wool (0000) and oil do an excellent job of cleaning---and the oil is just for some lubrication and crud softener (if there's any crud) to make the job easier (so it doesn't matter what kind of oil)-----never mind there's nothing difficult about it to begin with.

I once had a nickel gun----completely frosty. Less than 30 minutes later I had a nickel gun that looked like new! Even I was a little shocked at that.

Ralph Tremaine
 
Last edited:
I don't dispute any of the comments about caring for these grips, but a closer examination of the photos will reveal that one panel is already severely damaged. Of course, it's advisable to do no additional harm.
 
I recently got a revolver that was engraved in the exact stlye.
The letter I got said NOT factory engraved.
Save your $

I think you meant to put this post in this thread:

Factory Engraved top break

The OPs revolver and yours are not typical of factory engraving. The demarcated boundaries are atypical of factory engraving.
 
  • Like
Reactions: iby
Re-nickel

I agree,
It’s a very nice long barrel but it has been re-nickeled at some point.

Murph
 
Ralph, work with me. A lot of newbies read these posts. If I say no wool, they will undoubtedly not listen. I figure the OP may seek a little more advice. I hate to see these old survivors ruined by amateurs.

Okay, here's a word or two (or 6 or 8) about Steel Wool: Steel Wool removes rust. Bluing is rust (Black Oxide by name). (How's that, seven words?)

Yeah, I know this is a nickel gun. What I don't know is whether nickel is tougher than steel. I'd be betting it isn't, but I'm not going to be experimenting with nickel on a gun.

A few more words about bluing: The process is known as "controlled corrosion". That, in and of itself, should tell you all you need to know---about the steel wool topic.

As to pretty much any other topic that has anything to do with guns (S&W in particular), if you hang around here very long, you're going to be exposed to a whole lot of very hip dudes who've been there and done that, and you're going to lose your amateur status pretty damn quick! Then there's a select few---those I refer to as STUDENTS. They're a cut above the "hip dudes"-----WICKED SMART!! They may not be wicked smart about any and everything (and they'll be the first to tell you that), but if/when you get into the topics where they're STUDENTS, watch out---and when they talk, any and everybody who has the brains God gave a peanut, LISTENS! And they listen in AWE! They're easy to spot---anytime you're absolutely dumbfounded by what they're saying, and you're wondering how in the world can anybody know that much, THAT'S one of the STUDENTS!!

And it's all free for nothing-----unless you turn loose of some of your cash, and make a contribution to keep this hive going and growing. I'm pretty sure there's a sign somewhere here that says DONATIONS-----or CONTRIBUTIONS---or some such. Find it. Read it. There are some benefits to being a contributor---above and beyond just being a good guy and helping to keep all this rolling along.

Ralph Tremaine

It took awhile to come to mind, and it's not about steel wool; but bluing. "Bluing is not something applied to the surface of a gun----it IS the surface of the gun." And yet another: That which is "controlled" in the process of bluing, "controlled corrosion", are the chemicals employed (the corrosive agents), the temperatures at which they're employed, and the time for which they're employed. (A county Sheriff once approached a wizard of a gunsmith of my acquaintance. The Sheriff had a commercial grade Thompson Sub Machine Gun he wanted to have refinished (the one with the cooling fins on the barrel)---and he wanted "something special". He got it! Step One was the polishing---absolute perfection. Then the "controlled corrosion": It was controlled for a very brief period of time, and the end result was much like looking into a perfect light blue ice cube. The Sheriff was a happy camper!)
 
Last edited:
Welcome to the best site for all things Smith and Wesson period ! what a great first post I can not add much to what has already been said except this. I have learned so very much from the folks on here that making a donation was a absolute bargain which reminds me i need to again. Also I might suggest joining the SWCA and Historical foundation both for less than what you might spend on a cup of Joe a day. Oh and a neat inheritance my condolences on your loss.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top