Opinion on frankensteining a 629

MMA10mm

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2001
Messages
513
Reaction score
61
Location
Illinois
I have a 629-1 that suffers from most of the problems the earlier 44s get: end-shake, cylinder unlocking and rotating backwards, etc. Because of that, I bought a used-but-nice 629-4 as my primary shooter a couple years ago. Trouble is, I've always liked the 5" heavy bbl with ejector rod shroud but no underlug. I've found a 6" bbl which can be cut down to 5" and installed.

Do you guys think it would "ruin" the 629-4 or make it significantly more susceptible to accelerated wear with this lighter bbl on it?

Also, could someone "pin" this bbl, as was done on the no-dash 629s?

If this is succesful, I have a couple more ideas for this revolver, like a custom Keith-style front sight, and a narrowed, rounded, & smoothed trigger.
 
Register to hide this ad
The unlocking-backward rotating cylinder problem was corrected by changing the lockwork. On the 629, this happened on the Model 629-2E and 629-3 changes.

If the cylinder was properly fitted at the factory during the initial build, it will take a lot of shooting, or handloads exceeding SAMMI pressures and/or bullets heavier than 250 grains, to develop excessive endshake again. I doubt that barrel weight will be much of a factor.

I think a 5 inch, standard barrel profile M-629 would be outstanding. Doc44 has one made that way by the factory; such guns are really scarce. It looks great. I have a M-629-1 with a recessed cylinder but non-pinned barrel that is equipped with an 8-3/8 inch barrel. I bought it with the express purpose of having it cut to 5 inches. Any gunsmith capable of doing a good barrel bob/recrown/front sight fitting could drill the frame and barrel for a pin easily.
 
Last edited:
At the risk of having a conflict of interest, no, there should not be a problem with accelerated wear, since the dash four has the endurance package with the longer stop notches, etc. Jim Stroh at Alpha Precision has a picture of a 5 " custom 629 on his website and has done several of those conversions. A good place to look.

Also I would recommend getting your dash one rebuilt at S&W. They are pretty prompt on their service and they can fix your problems.

The .312" smooth combat trigger is a good start for the rounded trigger you want.
 
this sounds almost exactly like the revolver i posted in the wish list section. a 629 no lug. i think it is a very handsome look and 5" is the magic number. check it out, it's basically the same gun.
 
If you go back in the wish list section to the first or second page, you'll find a thread about a "real classic" 44 Magnum, or something similar. It was one of the first threads in the Wish List section, and it had actually started in one of the old forums before the reorganization here. We thought a 5-screw frame with all the endurance upgrades, plus forged parts, old lockwork (with hammer-mounted firing pin), 5" bbl. of tradition heavy-barrel profile (not the slender Mountain Gun, but not the full-underlug), pinned barrel and recessed cylinder chambers, and coke-bottle grips would be the perfect "classic." Old looking, but modern resilient engineering. This is the cheapest/easiest way for me to get there. Start with a -4 and retro-fit the other parts.

Which brings up another issue - Would retro-fitting a recessed 629 cylinder (which only came on the "no-dash" and a few -1s) be possible simply by lengthening the bolt cut notches (and of course fitting the hand), or were there other changes to the cylinder in the endurance package?

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

As far as sending my -1 back to the factory, I don't want to. There was a recall on the cylinder and the trigger is something that I don't think S&W would let back out the door again. (In single-action mode, the trigger is so light and crisp that the trigger return spring actually overpowers the pressure needed to be applied to get the trigger to release, so the sensation is the trigger coming forward when it fires... I've never measured it, but it's got to be under 2 lbs.) Besides, I've watched the vids by Midway and it doesn't look like too hard of a job - unscrewing the ejector rod looks like the hardest part. Solving the end-shake is just a matter of getting the right thickness of shim in place...
 
"Which brings up another issue - Would retro-fitting a recessed 629 cylinder (which only came on the "no-dash" and a few -1s) be possible simply by lengthening the bolt cut notches (and of course fitting the hand), or were there other changes to the cylinder in the endurance package?"

I'm not much help here, but when the counterbore of the chambers was eliminated, the cylinder was shortened at the rear, the same amount as the depth of the counterbore, a small bit more than the thickness of the cartridge rims. So, you would have to modify the cylinder stop lug, or let the cylinder flop around when open.
 
The factory has about 20 5" heavy barrels without the full lug. They will install one for about $200. I believe they are all chrome moly barrels for a 29 and not stainless but you might want to check. These barrels are left over from a production about 20 years ago. I recently had a 29-4 rebarreled with one of these.
 
Buff,
YES, that's what mine will look like, except, his is an original "no-dash" with a square-butt frame, whereas mine is a "-4" and will have the roundbutt frame, but for the most part, that's VERY close to what I'm headed for. The other outwardly-noticable difference will be a rounded, narrowed, and smoothed trigger on mine.

That brings up another interesting question: My "-4" has the case-hardened hammer and trigger (whereas Doc's no-dash original has the flash-chromed parts). What is the thought of the group -- should I pay for flash-chroming on my hammer and trigger, or leave it case-hardened (with the mirror-bright polished front surface on the trigger)?



I guess no one has thrown a yellow-flag on my project, but part of the point of my original question was also what you guys think about me modifying a perfectly-good revolver to a non-original configuration?

I know some say, "it's your pistol -- make yourself happy," while others shake their head watching a perfectly good revolver being modified.

I read in Taffin's Book of the 44, that he has modified a few revolvers, and some of them he regrets (because they later turned out to be rare), while he also seems to have a regular habit of getting his pistols 'smithed to enhance them (but not necessarily changing the configuration like I'm doing)... Thoughts?
 
I'd vote with the "make yourself Happy" theme here. While 10-20 years can certainly change the collectability of guns - who knows if we'll even be here in then. You're not exactly talking about commiting a major sin here with these guns and you'll still be ending up with something desirable, so "DO IT." It'll probably take a year or so to get stuff done and after it's finished you'll have to find another "dream gun" to keep you occupied - but I hear you dream about FA's a bit too...

Just my 2 cents worth.

Ward
 
My thoughts:

"My "-4" has the case-hardened hammer and trigger (whereas Doc's no-dash original has the flash-chromed parts). What is the thought of the group -- should I pay for flash-chroming on my hammer and trigger, or leave it case-hardened (with the mirror-bright polished front surface on the trigger)?"

S&W did the flash chroming on the earlier stainless guns mostly for appearances sake. I believe they discontinued it for economic reasons and considerations of simplicity - it cut in half the number and variety of parts they had to manufacture and stock. I recognize that the flash chroming added some measure of rust resistance to the parts, which was the major reason for stainless steel handguns in the first place, but we don't see the case hardened hammers and triggers rusting much without the flash chroming.

I see no downside (other than cost) to having your parts done, too, if that is what you want.

-----

"I guess no one has thrown a yellow-flag on my project, but part of the point of my original question was also what you guys think about me modifying a perfectly-good revolver to a non-original configuration?

"I know some say, "it's your pistol -- make yourself happy," while others shake their head watching a perfectly good revolver being modified."

-----

Some say any modification reduces or eliminates any "collector value." In the case of revolvers like yours, that were manufactured in pretty large numbers and in the fairly recent past, I don't think there is any collector value to worry about, and there won't be until long after you and I are gone, if our descendents are allowed to even have handguns then.

These are tools, not religious icons. If it makes you happy to have one exactly the way you want it, and it isn't unsafe, and you can afford the expense, I can see no reason not to.

I tend to not perform modifications on my guns that can't be reversed, but there are times when I have a specific thing in mind, and either such an item has never been manufactured, or they were made in such small numbers (like Doc44's 5 incher) that it is incredibly unlikely I will ever have one, that having at it with cutting and grinding tools (and some skill, of course, or a good gunsmith) is completely reasonable.

After all, you are not proposing to draw a mustache on the Mona Lisa here. And I don't see how what you propose will make your revolver any less "perfectly good" than it is now.

To illustrate my point of view (and it is only my point of view), I have always been an admirer of the .45 Colt cartridge. I have a few S&W's originally so chambered. I really enjoy them. A few years back, AMERICAN HANDGUNNER magazine featured a 4 inch .38-44 Heavy Duty that Hamilton Bowen had converted to .45 Colt. S&W had originally manufactured a whopping total of twelve Heavy Dutys in .45 Colt, so the odds of me ever finding one at the swap meet or buying one from some well-heeled collector were non-existant.

I bought a very nice post-WWII long action H.D. from a member here (not cheap to me, but I am of modest means) and sent it off to Bowen. The work was also not cheap. I have more money tied up in that gun than any other handgun I own.

Some might be upset, because transitional H.D.'s aren't really plentiful, but in all reality, it was a used gun, there was no box or papers with it and while demand may have kept the prices for such guns up there, it isn't something your stereotypical, snooty, high-browe collector would have owned, because there are unfired, perfect specimens of same in their original boxes they would rather have.

So the upshot is that I now have an absolutely gorgeous (my judgement) fixed sight .45 Colt N frame that is everything I always wanted. I get the warm fuzzies every time I see it. So what if the world has one less nice N frame .38 shooter in it? Nations won't fail, dams won't break, locust infestations won't happen and ships won't sink because of it. One middle aged shooter in Utah is happy about it, Ham Bowen is happy for having done it, and the world goes on.

I plan on sending my -629 off to Bowen soon. Then, as finances allow, I am going to have a 6-1/2 inch Model 624 shortened to 5 inches, then probably a 6 inch Model 66-1, on old duty pistol of mine, also shortened to 5 inches. It will be intersting and worthwhile it to me, which is what hobbies are all about.
 
So many 629's were made. I say go for it. It is not like you are converting a 1-200 or even a 1-5000 type gun. Probably over 50,000 629's were made (just a guess). I say make what you want. I almost want to find a 629 3 inch barrel to have installed on my -4 classic in 6 inch.
 
Frankenstein for sure. Here are pictures of a 629-4 CLAssic ,
that I cut to 4 in. and had a millett front sight dovetailed in.

The ONLY thing modified here was the barrel. I can change it back
any time with a new barrel.
It shoots and handles great. I posted a range report in the
original thread.

Some people might think I'm crazy cutting a perfectly good 629 ,
but ,,my intent was to create something Smith and Wesson never did
A 4 inch full lug 629...............

Allens002.jpg




Allens003.jpg



629-48-18-09004.jpg




629-48-18-09003.jpg



629-48-18-09002.jpg




629-48-18-09001.jpg


This final photo is with the acid etched markings polished off ,and a 15 yard d.a. target from the range that day.

This revolver is not for sale.
It's the handiest 44 magnum I've ever had.

629-48-19-09003.jpg


Regards ,,Allen Frame
 
Thanks for all the support guys! Makes me feel much better.

One nice thing about my conversion is that the pistol came with a 5" bbl (w/ underlug), and the "new" barrel will also be 5". I originally thought of keeping the original barrel just in case the next owner wanted to convert it back to original configuration, but with the pinned barrel and modified cylinder stop lug, I think it's going to stay just the way I modify it...

I've already struck a very good deal with a fellow member here for a 6" Hvy Bbl w/ ejector rod shroud (no underlug). Still looking for a recessed cylinder...

Anyone ever notice on the roll-stamped bbls., that "Smith & Wesson" is perfectly centered for when the bbl. is cut down to 5"?? It's like they're just trying to tempt me into cutting them all down to 5"..... :)
 
Allen Frame:

Yes, that is exactly what I mean. I really like that. You want something S&W hasn't made, sometimes you can make it yourself. Fine job.

I always found it odd that the 4 inch .44 Magnum, the hardest kicking N frame of common barrel length, was never made with the full underlug barrel, while the .45 Colt and ACP guns, which don't need the extra weight of that lug to shoot comfortably, got it and you can't get the standard barrel profile!
 
The factory has about 20 5" heavy barrels without the full lug. They will install one for about $200. I believe they are all chrome moly barrels for a 29 and not stainless but you might want to check. These barrels are left over from a production about 20 years ago. I recently had a 29-4 rebarreled with one of these.


I heard that several years ago, but when I called, the CS rep said they did not have any. I have a older 4" I would like to rebarrel to a 5". Who should I contact?

Sorry for the thread drift. :D
 

Latest posts

Back
Top