Opinions on 625 version to pursue?

Oh yeah, about the moon clips. I've been using Rimz plastic moonclips and they've been reliable. As a plus, I can load and unload without a tool!
 
Oh yeah, about the moon clips. I've been using Rimz plastic moonclips and they've been reliable. As a plus, I can load and unload without a tool!
Thanks! When I finally get my hands on one of these revolvers, I'll make sure to purchase some of these moon clips.
 
If you're new to revolvers, particularly S&W revolvers, and thinking of shopping for a used one, your first purchase should be Jerry Kuhnhausen's classic THE S&W REVOLVER-A SHOP MANUAL, 5TH EDITION. It's about $35.00 new from Brownell's, and it can easily save you ten times that by keeping you from buying something with issues you don't want to deal with. Everyone who owns a S&W revolver should have this and read it cover to cover before ever taking out a sideplate screw.

That said, personally I prefer the older vintage guns. A Fifties-vintage Model 28, for instance, is typically smoother than a Seventies-vintage Model 27, and nearly as well finished on the outside. Just RTFM so you know what to watch out for when you're shopping.
 
I have a 5" -4 and a 3" -3 and love them both. No problems with either, though the MIM parts in the -4 originally gave me pause. Turned out to be needless worry. I load for my 1911s and liked the option of a revolver with moon clips, but I find myself mostly shooting .45 Auto Rim after stumbling on to a large supply of Starline brass. Not to say there are any problems with moons, as I shoot plenty of them also...just another option (and don't even need different dies!) Good luck with your decision!
Jim
 
I have a 5" -4 and a 3" -3 and love them both. No problems with either, though the MIM parts in the -4 originally gave me pause. Turned out to be needless worry. I load for my 1911s and liked the option of a revolver with moon clips, but I find myself mostly shooting .45 Auto Rim after stumbling on to a large supply of Starline brass. Not to say there are any problems with moons, as I shoot plenty of them also...just another option (and don't even need different dies!) Good luck with your decision!
Jim

Thanks for the response. Any opinion on whether you prefer the 3" or 5" for just fun range usage? I'm in talks with a couple different people and also scrounging auction sights and trying to pin down which version I really want. I know the older version 3" ones are more valuable so I definitely factor that into the equation, but I'm curious as to which I'd like more just from a fun, accuracy, balance/feel aspect of it. The 5" should be more accurate just due to the longer sight radius, but is the difference very noticeable? Does the shorter barrel make it balance better and decrease muzzle flip, making it easier to shoot quickly? I'm not looking for competition shooting, but hitting where I'm aiming would be nice too.
 
Last edited:
Steve,
I prefer the 5" for range and fun use, mostly for the reasons you cited. Seems to hold steadier and not so "whippy" with stout loads. Can't tell a lot of difference in accuracy, but then I consider them suited for different purposes. Have shot bowling pins fairly consistently at 50 yards with the 5" but never tried with 3". 3" is usually loaded with Corbon +P (in moon clips) for a hunting sidearm or trips where a sidearm is needed for overnight stays in a motel room. The 3" versions seem to tend to be more expensive in the used market, too. There was also a 4" version early on, too, but I think you will be pretty happy with whatever you decide and it will not be the last!
Jim
 
Love the 625 talk. I bought a -6 5" on GB, has less than 200 rounds through it. Hopefully I'll have it this week!
 
Either the 625-2 or the 625-3 are excellent versions in 3, 4, or 5 inch barrels. My personal favorite is the 625-2 in 3 inch barrel. These are still pretty easy to find in excellent condition and you will not pay much more than you pay for a dash 8, which I consider to be inferior in many respects.

So if you want the best 625 out there, take the time to find a quality dash 2, 3, or even 4.
But if you, like so many people, just have to have something new, then go for the 625-8.
 
Based on what I see on auction sites, the prices for good condition -2's are about equal or possibly slightly more than the new PC versions. Given equal price, would you go with the new PC?

Comes down to what you want to do with it. I went with the -2 because I could score higher with it in Bullseye. I don't shoot BE anymore so I'm happier with the JM Special. My BE guns were strictly utilitarian (except for my custom 38). Like a Ginsu steak knife, they got the job done very well but were not something I was emotionally attached to. The revolvers I have now are different.
Keith
 
Either the 625-2 or the 625-3 are excellent versions in 3, 4, or 5 inch barrels. My personal favorite is the 625-2 in 3 inch barrel. These are still pretty easy to find in excellent condition and you will not pay much more than you pay for a dash 8, which I consider to be inferior in many respects.

So if you want the best 625 out there, take the time to find a quality dash 2, 3, or even 4.
But if you, like so many people, just have to have something new, then go for the 625-8.

Comes down to what you want to do with it. I went with the -2 because I could score higher with it in Bullseye. I don't shoot BE anymore so I'm happier with the JM Special. My BE guns were strictly utilitarian (except for my custom 38). Like a Ginsu steak knife, they got the job done very well but were not something I was emotionally attached to. The revolvers I have now are different.
Keith

Thanks. I actually ended up finding someone on this site that was looking to trim down his collection and was selling his 625-2 3", so I just bought that from him. The price was fair and I'd rather help out someone from the forum over some random pawn shop on gun broker.

For those familiar, I didn't even know they made a 3" 625-2. I thought the 3" and 4" models weren't available until 625-3. Did they make some while in the transition phase and still printed 625-2 on them or something?
 
"For those familiar, I didn't even know they made a 3" 625-2. I thought the 3" and 4" models weren't available until 625-3. Did they make some while in the transition phase and still printed 625-2 on them or something?"

I didn't think that they did, either. I thought all of the 625-2's were 5 inchers and the 3 and 4 inchers didn't come along until 625-3. Learn something almost every day.

You can tell us for sure when yours arrives.
 
I have seen somewhere a picture of the 625-2 stamped on the frame but the bigger cylinder stop notches on the cylinder. I guess S&W doesn't waste anything.
 
There's actually one for sale on Gun Broker right now that is a 3" 625-2 as well. I even sent the guy a message to confirm that it wasn't a mistake and he confirmed that it does say 625-2.
 
To add a bit more mystery to the 625 puzzle, the 3" on GB is a Model of 1989, but the serial number is BDC28xx (if the seller is correct), and my Model of 1988 (5") is BDC49xx.

I never have been able to figure out the 625 numbering system.
 
Last edited:
To add a bit more mystery to the 625 puzzle, the 3" on GB is a Model of 1989, but the serial number is BDC28xx (if the seller is correct), and my Model of 1988 (5") is BDC49xx.

I never have been able to figure out the 625 numbering system.
That is really odd. The one I'm getting is BEN45xx so at least that makes a little bit of sense. When I receive it, I can try to comb it over to see if it actually has the -2 or the -3 changes. I won't check for the floating hand but I can check the cylinder stop.
 
The dash 3's I've seen were BEN my dash 2 is BDC. The one mentioned above on GB must be where I saw the dash2 with the -2 cylinder & 1989 barrel markings.
 
Last edited:
I have a 625 jm and was wondering if anyone who owns one has measured the forcing cone. The forcing cone on mine has a rough finish and measures .485-.498 max diameter with dial calipers. This seem excessive. Brownell sells a go-no go plug gauge to check it with. I call their tect support to see if they could tell me the max diameter of the gauge but they could not.
Just wondering if anyone may have similar experience. The gun shoots great but there is fouling in the forcing cone.
Also if anyone has the forcing cone plug gauge and could measure the large end and would please post it It would be appreciated.
 
What are the thoughts on the 625-6 mountain gun version chambered in 45ACP? Purposes? Range, woods, hunting, self defense?
 
Last edited:
I prefer the balance of the 4". This -3 is my favorite range gun (I love the.45acp cartridge), purchased here on the forum with the original Gripper grips and box. Not bad for self defense either :D I added the Hogue grip and SDM front sight.

IMG_4513_zps1e8wed2g.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks everyone for the responses. Just picked up my 625-3 3" today. It's in excellent condition and can't wait to get out to shoot it.

BrNF4Bg.jpg
 
There's actually one for sale on Gun Broker right now that is a 3" 625-2 as well. I even sent the guy a message to confirm that it wasn't a mistake and he confirmed that it does say 625-2.

I saw that gun as well. The barrel appears to have been cut down. The markings are off center, and it is laser etched, not roll marked. It is probably mis-stamped as a dash two. Also, it has an after-market front sight. The seller refused to acknowledge that the barrel was shortened after I pointed out those items to him. He is asking a hefty price for a modified gun. Buyer beware!
 
I saw that gun as well. The barrel appears to have been cut down. The markings are off center, and it is laser etched, not roll marked. It is probably mis-stamped as a dash two. Also, it has an after-market front sight. The seller refused to acknowledge that the barrel was shortened after I pointed out those items to him. He is asking a hefty price for a modified gun. Buyer beware!
Wow thanks. Glad I didn't bid on that one.
 
Back
Top