Oversized Bore Brush

[skrazo]

Does it damage the cylinder interiors on a 357 revolver to use a bronze brush larger than 0.38 to clean them? I'm thinking of maybe getting a S&W 40 or even a 45 ACP.

 

[Watchdog]

In a word...no.

 

[Jerry N.]

While that seemed like a good idea, when I tried it, the oversized brush just deformed and did not clean any better. I forget what I was using and what I was using it on (it was years ago), but it didn't work. If you're going to try it, start with just the very next size up. That might work. Given the calibers I have, I probably took a .45acp brush to a 9mm.

 

[LittleCooner]

NO use the next size up

 

[MichiganScott]

It's not going to harm them, but doing so probably has little value. A .38 cylinder should spec out at 0.379". Using a brush that's .40 diameter or above does nothing but wear out the brush faster and potentially may lead to a stuck brush if you try to pull it back before it has fully exited the cylinder.

I hold on to old brushes and use them on smaller caliber guns by themselves, or sometimes with a patch and J-B bore paste. There are options.

Edit: at one time brass or bronze oversize brushes were made specifically for cleaning cylinders. Brownell's still carries them in stainless steel. Brownell's recommend they only be used on the chamber, so it would appear that they are pretty aggressive. I choose to stick with brass or bronze.

 

[Peak53]

I sometimes use a 40 in a 38 chamber with good results

 

[Edmo]

I cleaned four 38/357 revolvers today after a range session.

I always start with a nylon 40 caliber brush in the cylinders coated in Balistol and if the carbon is stubborn I transition to a bronze 40 caliber brush. I usually see the "stubborn" carbon in 357 chambers after firing 38 Specials.

After a good scrubbing, I push square 30 caliber patches into the cylinders with the nylon brush until everything is clean.

Edmo

 

[Alk8944]

Best thing for .38/.357 chambers is a .375/.38 cal. rifle brush. Midway used to sell them by 10 or 12. Clean very well without being so big that the bristles break after just a few passes.

 

[kthom]

The only possible danger with any bronze brush would be if you stop it's forward motion and then reverse the brush and pull it out while it's still in the bore or cylinder. Damage isn't likely, but when the bristles are bent in the opposite direction, the tips are pressed tightly against the metal in either place. I have doubts that any damage could occur unless using a stainless steel brush, but IMO it's still best to push the brush completely through and allow the bristles to relax before changing direction for the pass back through. I have used worn bronze brushes rotated in a slow drill to help clean badly fouled cylinders (near the shoulder at the front of the cylinder. But seldom is that necessary if cleaning is done regularly as it should be. I tend to use a nylon brush first, if I use a brush at all. The secret is to fully coat the interior surface of the bore and cylinders and allow it to sit and soak and soften before further cleaning actions. A good bore can usually be cleaned with just dry patches unless it's been allowed to go too long. And it never hurts to use a wet patch, a bit of a soak, and then a few dry patches after any long shooting session. If you do that, it won't be necessary to use a brush at all in most cases. My experience, FWIW!

 

[drummer007]

Most of the folks I know consider it standard practice to clean 38/357 cylinder chambers with 40 caliber pistol or rifle brushes.

I chuck a section of Garand cleaning rod into an electric drill, screw the 40 cal brush into the end of it and clean the cylinder chambers running the electric drill. Of course, I first remove the cylinder from the revolver and lock it into a cleaning rig.

 

[CaptRon956]

I see nothing wrong with using a oversized brush to clean out the chamber, but I've always used the proper sized brush for the barrel.
Using a bigger brush wont harm anything other than to cause premature wear on the bristle's.

 

[s&wchad]

Brownells still sells bronze chamber brushes:
http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...ze-rifle-pistol-chamber-brushes-prod1287.aspx

Pro-Shot has them too:
.38 Cal. Chamber Brush

 

[NYlakesider]

Since I bought my first gun, (about1962) I always use one size over for cleaning. That is for rifles, handguns, shot guns. Yes they wear out faster but IMHO does a better job. Those brushes are cheap enough and go in the expendable category!

 

[walter o]

Use the correct size brush . As an example when using a wire wheel too clean off rust from a piece of steel ,if you just let the tips of the brush hit the work it removes the rust quickly . If you press the wheel forcefully into the part trying to speed up the cleaning the rust is not taken off as quickly . It is the tips of the wire that do the cleaning not the body of the brissel.(SP)

 

[chief38]

Brownell's sells CHAMBER BRUSHES in .38 Special caliber that are meant for this. They are slightly oversized and are more aggressive on lead. The ONLY downside I have experienced in the many years of using them is that they only last for a couple of cleanings and then the bristles shed real quickly. I get the RIFLE version (longer) so you actually get more cleaning action per stroke. They are NO HARM to your cylinder chambers - just make sure the shedding bristles do not get into your ejector rod opening.

 

[Old cop]

I've used a .45 ACP brush in my .357 & .38 for years w/o any problems.

 

[ontargetagain]

Try a Hoppes Stainless Tornado brush. I have found these much more effective in cleaning revolver cylinder throats and chambers. There is not loose bristles on these, they have a much firmer spiral rolled edge that nicely scrapes clean the deposits.
Karl

 

[lebomm]

I've found a way to avoid a jammed brush if necessary to reverse before exit. The answer is to use a rod w/a non-rotating handle, such as the ring-ended rod supplied by the factory. When the brush is stopped, simply maintain a little forward pressure, and twist the rod to the right (so as not to unscrew the brush) before pulling it back. Works for me every time.

Larry

 

[chief38]

Try a Hoppes Stainless Tornado brush. I have found these much more effective in cleaning revolver cylinder throats and chambers. There is not loose bristles on these, they have a much firmer spiral rolled edge that nicely scrapes clean the deposits.
Karl

Stainless Steel Tornado Brushes should NOT be used. They are too hard and could damage your Cylinder and barrel. Yea they may work effectively, but you run the risk of permanent damage IMHO.

 

[Nemo288]

+1 on the one size bigger BRONZE RIFLE brush chucked in a drill.
I only use the bigger, longer brush on chambers and throats of revolvers.
Push a wet patch thru each chamber.
Rotary brush all the chambers.
Then I spray a little brake cleaner on a patch and push it thru each chamber leaving them degreased.
I turn each patch over so it only takes 3 to do a 6 shooter.

===
Nemo