Painting Front Sights - Questions

My question is this. If you paint your revolver sights do you paint the entire ramp or just the top part of it? I have a 1981 Model 63 with the factory red insert and it is only the top half. I painted the Model 10 sight (entire ramp). See pictures. Is it personal preference or is one way the best? Any preference on color?
Doesn't make much difference. Either way is OK. You're probably only going to see the upper half, anyway. I suppose you might do upper half only, so that you can elevate the front sight some appropriate amount for a particular long distance like 75 or 100yd or something, but that's a personal choice. So is color. I happen to prefer the color you illustrated, but some folks might like fluorescent green, or even white, especially if it emits light after having been "loaded" with a flashlight.
 
If my pistol/revolvers did not have white dot sights/night sights,I painted the entire front blade/post with Testers gloss yellow. I tried red but it does not index (eyes pick up) as fast as the yellow for me. I use the Testers paint thinner on a Q tip to clean off any oil/dirt before I paint the blade/post. Been doing this for 50+ years.
Before anyone comments,I know night sights have only been around for 10+ 40+ years.

I agree with the above post that it is personal preference on color used and amount of the blade is covered.

Be SAFE and Shoot often!
Fixed it for ya.
 
I've been using the same bottles of orange (Revlon) and white (not sure of brand) nail polish for more than 10 years. White undercoat and orange top coat on the full length of the serrated face of the ramp, whether blue or stainless. The orange does fade after a few years (haven't tried to keep track, so no exact times available) but it's easy enough to strip with acetone or lacquer thinner and reapply. And it has been WELL worth the effort. Especially on stainless front sights.
 
I take blue paint masking tape and keep adjusting until all you can see of the front sight aligns with the bottom of the rear sight pocket.

Then I use acetone to clean the serrations of the front sight blade. Then tape the sides of the sight blade and trim them flush to the serrated front.

Next, use 2 coats of white Testers or fingernail polish. Let dry 24 Hrs.

My preference for color is fluorescent red or orange. Again use Testers or fingernail polish and put 2 coats on and let dry 24 hrs.

Finally, I put 2 coats of clear over the fluorescent and again wait 24 hrs.

Lastly, I clean the rear sight with acetone and use a toothpick and white paint to parallel the rear sight notch.

The paint job that I did on my N28 has lasted over 10 years!
 
I use nail polish and have tried red, orange, white and flo. green. Much of it for me depends on the target background, whether I am shooting paper, 6 O''Clock hold or game.
 
White-Out Correction fluid is flat white lacquer , cheap , found in any wally mart , and comes in brush/bottle or pen applicator ....I keep pens in my shooting box.
The pens allow you to make nice round dots also .
I usually cover all the serrations of the sight .
The flat white makes a good base for colored paints ....I find white works just fine for me .
 
I have used my wife's Ted nail polish for the last 40 years and see no reason to change now.

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Today, I painted the entire ramp of the front sight of my Model 18, with white, then yellow acrylic paint. Then, I went to the range. I was still having a hard time seeing the front sight; so, I took a black Sharpie, and drew a line up the middle of the ramp. Worked great for visibility but the acrylic paint isn't very durable. Need to get some Testor's.
 

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I prefer fluorescent orange, as it's one of the last colors to dim out in low light. Red quickly turns black. I haven't tried fluorescent chartreuse or yellow.

But since I've never been a collector and don't buy guns with an eye toward flipping them for profit, several times I've had a smith properly install a fluorescent orange insert in a front sight blade. It's not an expensive fix, but pricier than the Testor's.
 
I've used it all. Testors, White Out, and now a couple of bottles of white and day glow orange nail polish I got at the dollar store, oddly enough, for a buck a bottle. They'll last me the rest of my life I'm sure.

I generally paint about half the sight. That's about what a factory sight insert is.
 
Sorry for the bad pic, but I pretty much painted the whole sight. I didn't paint the top, although this pic kind of makes it look like it. I just wanted to be able to pick it up quick in low light. I don't really think it's the best for daytime shooting. I'd rather have black. But since a lot of crime happens at night.....

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The rubber bands wrapped around the grip remind me of the favored (reportedly) method of snub-nose revolver carry for NYPD detectives. [emoji3526]

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It gives me a little bit of girth to help my right thumb stay out of the way of my trigger finger. It probably gives a little cushion for recoil too. And a little bit more to hang on to. It works for me. But the main reason was the first one. Sometimes if I draw real quickly and don't have a perfect grip on it, without the rubber bands, my trigger finger will hit my thumb and it messes with my mind and trigger pull.
 
I appreciate all of the very helpful tips. These two 28-2's are both shooters and I don't know why I didn't paint the sights long ago. Used Testors flat white followed by two coats of Testors florescent orange 24 hrs later. Tomorrow or the next day I'll put some of my wife's "top coat" over it.

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If you are shooting low and have no more rear sight adjustment:

Try painting down on the lower half of the ramp. This will help keep that barrel higher during aiming.
 

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