painting the inlay on 15-22

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well I'm new to this forum , just purchased my mp 15 22, and want to know how do you paint the inlay factory print on the lower assembly without making a mess ? :o
 
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Use a crayon and scrape any colored wax into the recessed areas. Wipe off the excess with some Rem Oil. It's surprisingly resilient and if it chips out you can apply more easily or change the color any time you like.

Do some searches on YouTube for "tacticrayola" and see what you find. There are plenty of videos of the technique.
 
For a more permanent solution you can use Sharpie Paint Pens with the extra fine point.

Because the SAFE and FIRE lettering is so small you'll get over run, simple use some fine grit sand paper of emery cloth to remove the over-flow and finish with a very fine grit paper to remove any scratches you may have.

You don't have the advantage of color selection like Crayola, but how often do you want to redo it?

Here's what mine looks like done with paint pens:

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I started the process of using crayons to color in mine today. I think that if the weapon and crayon are warm it will fill in better. It is fairly cool today and I am not liking the results so far. I think when I finish up I will disassemble the upper and lowers and gently warm the lower.
 
I started the process of using crayons to color in mine today. I think that if the weapon and crayon are warm it will fill in better. It is fairly cool today and I am not liking the results so far. I think when I finish up I will disassemble the upper and lowers and gently warm the lower.

A hair drier on low will heat up the lower nicely. You want it just warm to the touch.

I did mine with crayons, but my grandson's I did with acrylic hobby paint. I wiped the excess off with a damp rag. I like the paint better.

One hint, no matter which way you go - for any color but white, don't put it directly on. Put a "base coat" of white on first and then the color. It makes the color lettering much brighter.

If I ever do mine over, I'll give the Sharpie paint pens a try.
 
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Also, you can use a torch lighter to heat the wax that is in the letters, it will then flow freely and evenly into all of the grooves. Just don't heat too much, just enough to melt the wax.
 
Take a look at a product called Lacquer Stick. I used to use them on office equipment. They should hold up better then crayons and they are heat resistant.
 
How long does the coloring effect last? Does anything in particular speed up the wear-down?
 
How long does the coloring effect last? Does anything in particular speed up the wear-down?

My crayon lettering is almost a year old and still looks good. Unless you flood the lettering with something that dissolves wax, it should last for several years. It's recessed, so rubbing wear won't remove it.
 
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Also, you can use a torch lighter to heat the wax that is in the letters, it will then flow freely and evenly into all of the grooves. Just don't heat too much, just enough to melt the wax.

I found this method to work best when i did mine
 
I just used acrylic paint on mine. Wipe the brush over it so the whole area is painted, then wipe it off with your thumb. The paint stays in the recess. I've done everything like that. 1911 slides, Glock 26 slides, Glock magazines. I have not done it to my 15-22 because I stopped doing it before I bought it.

It has lasted for years with multiple cleanings with different oils/ cleaning agents.

KBK
 
What Kayback said. I just did mine by cleaning the area with alchohol, and using some white and red auto touchup paint that comes in the little bottles wih a brush I had around the house. I let it dry a day then I scraped the excess off with my thumb nail. Couldn't be easier.
 
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a china marker also works very well. Clean everything up with acetone then fill in the lettering. Excess wipes of with a rag. M1 owners have been using this method for years

Ted
 

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