Peening overcut revolver extractor ratchet pad

[__steve__]

Has anyone had success here?

For a 500mag, 1 of the 5 cylinder chambers is failing to fully carry up in SA/DA (with empty cases in chambers) due to not enough meat available on extractor. 100% confident that is the cause. Offending ratchet (gear tooth) measures at least 0.003” less than the other 4. I can see with magnification it wasn’t cut perpendicular. Right before cyl stop is supposed to lock, the cylinder no longer rotates and I can see the hand slipping over the static extractor as the trigger drops (or hammer locks).

I refuse to send it to S&W because I have a similar revolver just returned for repair for this issue where they didn’t address the problem (they replaced trigger and repaired yoke). Furthermore this one was repaired a year ago and had been returned as such.

With fast action, inertia allows it to work fine, but I’m not a fan of having the massive cylinder slam in to the stop, and I furthermore don’t rapid fire 500 mag loads.

I have tried peening the individual area but can’t seem to change anything, perhaps I am not using a hard enough punch device (see image, using an old extractor rod tapered at the end). Is there a specific type of metal required to more effectively peen this? Just need a couple thousandths

 

[Protocall_Design]

The best way to fix that would be to get a new extractor. Until then, you can use a 1/4" steel rod or punch with a polished flat end. Put the punch on top of the ratchet, with the top of the punch slightly leaned in the direction you want the metal to move. Give it a tap or 2, and check your progress. Adjust number and strength of taps as needed. Go easy. It doesn't take a lot of force.

 

[__steve__]

Thanks. Sounds like the tool I used is too small then, and maybe the support under cylinder is absorbing too much energy. I have already tapped it dozens of times.
So about how much surface of the ratchet pad needs contact, about half?

 

[Protocall_Design]

Set the punch so it covers the entire ratchet. Lean it towards where you want the material to go. When you move the metal, about 1/2 of the ratchet will be hit by the punch.

 

[__steve__]

Copy, thanks

 

[Rpg]

Occasionally, a gun makes more than one trip to Smith before the problem is solved.

The last thing I’d do is try to fix it myself.

 

[Protocall_Design]

I just try to help those that ask. It's usually pretty hard to determine someone's level of mechanical ability over the internet. Some are OK to work on their gun, some are not. Not my call. Everyone has to decide that for themselves.

 

[__steve__]

The extractor seems to be too hard anyway, maybe they hardened these more to withstand the extra weight. Only worked the surface slightly, didn’t change but ~.001. It’s almost there though, but I give up on this thing. Wonder if a more solid stop spring might help.

In the meantime, it’s just a 4 shooter.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Wolff Springs has heavy duty stop springs.

 

[__steve__]

About to purchase springs. I assume X frame uses the same springs that are used in K, L, and N, because they don’t list the X frame on their site

 

[Jeff in Cincinnati]

While it has been many years ago, during the two week S&W Armorer’s revolver course, there was no peening or other adjustments of the ratchets to increase contact with the hand. Instead, a “fatter” hand was selected if the cylinder did not “carry up.” If the thicker hand made the other ratchets too tight (“long”) some judicious filing was used to fit those ratchets. Frankly, this issue of fitting ratchets was to me the most touchy of all of the hand fitting of a revolver and very easy to overdo.