Perfected my AC drip line flush procedure - takes 60 seconds now!

[chief38]

Here in SWFL AC drip lines are always getting clogged up with the goopy stuff. It's actually a form of bacteria and it clogs the drip line which in turn causes the float switch to automatically turn off the unit until it is cleaned out. Of course this never happens at a convenient time - always at 2am or when you have a house full of people - or even worse..... when you are away! It has happened during a downpour and cleaning it out with a shop vac from the outside is a royal pain in the butt!!

About 2 years ago I had a semi manual system with a hose connector on the inside line and that would get flushed out with a garden hose. That worked well, but I had to manually run the hose into the garage where the ac closet is located. No big deal but I was looking for something super simple that even my wife would not mind doing. Well today I did it!

I cut the wall, found a cold water line, ran PEX from the cold water line into the ac closet and hooked up a ball valve directly into the drip line. Now all I need to do is to turn off the drip line flow valve and open the water supply valve. Run the water for 45-60 seconds and done! Don't even have to go outside now.

Tomorrow I will put the insulation back up, rehang the same sheetrock, spackle and paint. That should not take very long. Luckily I did have a cold water line about 3 feet from the ac unit closet so it was very easy to do this. If you have a similar set of circumstances it might be something you should think of doing. The total cost for all the PEX pipe and fittings were $33 and it took me about two hours to do. Figure another hour to do the repair work on the wall and that's that. I have spackle, tape and paint so no outlay of money there. Works like a charm!!

 

[Heymatt]

Nice work!

 

[Golddollar]

If I tried that I would probably end up with an indoor swimming pool in the basement.

 

[pharmer]

Excellent problem solving Chief. I'm lazy so I put the "enzyme" in the condensate tray (pop out float switch and pour in 1/3 bottle) twice a year. I put 8 oz Darin solve in the condensate line (downstream from air handler) and no problems in 2 years. About $40 for both on Amazon. Came recommended by guy who installed unit. Joe

 

[chief38]

Excellent problem solving Chief. I'm lazy so I put the "enzyme" in the condensate tray (pop out float switch and pour in 1/3 bottle) twice a year. I put 8 oz Darin solve in the condensate line (downstream from air handler) and no problems in 2 years. About $40 for both on Amazon. Came recommended by guy who installed unit. Joe

I have tried the enzyme from the same company but in the bar form. When I service the air handler every 6 months I put one of the slow dissolving enzyme bars in the drip pan. It is supposed to last up to 6 months and helps somewhat but it's not perfect. The water flush with full house pressure pushes everything out now that all I have to do is turn two valves it will take exactly 60 seconds. I will do that religiously once a week and that will keep the line snot free forever, I hope!

The shop vac method is IMO a poor method of cleaning the line out because after the water level in the pan drops in a few seconds, the vac is just sucking air through the line and isn't doing much cleaning action. The water flush really pushes everything out.

My theory is that some of the homes built here have a better drip line pitch than others and the steeper the pitch the more the water will flow out instead of laying in the pipe. Since the pipe is buried within the wall, I truly have no idea how good or bad the pitch really is.

 

[SMSgt]

I have tried the enzyme from the same company but in the bar form. When I service the air handler every 6 months I put one of the slow dissolving enzyme bars in the drip pan. It is supposed to last up to 6 months and helps somewhat but it's not perfect. The water flush with full house pressure pushes everything out now that all I have to do is turn two valves it will take exactly 60 seconds. I will do that religiously once a week and that will keep the line snot free forever, I hope!

The shop vac method is IMO a poor method of cleaning the line out because after the water level in the pan drops in a few seconds, the vac is just sucking air through the line and isn't doing much cleaning action. The water flush really pushes everything out.

My theory is that some of the homes built here have a better drip line pitch than others and the steeper the pitch the more the water will flow out instead of laying in the pipe. Since the pipe is buried within the wall, I truly have no idea how good or bad the pitch really is.

My shop vac will empty the line from one end to the other. I have to refill the line with water to keep the air handler from sucking air through it.

 

[pharmer]

.......The water flush with full house pressure pushes everything out now that all I have to do is turn two valves it will take exactly 60 seconds. I will do that religiously once a week and that will keep the line snot free forever, I hope!

No need to flush so often during "A/C season," lots of flow. Outflow from my drain is pretty fast, Winter is when the "brown snake" grows in the line, no flow. Your final drain should be higher than the slab, supposed to help the drain function. Mine comes out of the ground, straight up maybe 9" with 2 90* elbows on the end.

 

[rwsmith]

I can unplug it pretty good with my wet/dry Shop Vac from the back yard. Don't even have to go into the attack.

 

[AJ]

This works well for me. https://nydirect.com/products/recto...hgReoWWvthO2jIUdCrJGojeW8iYmCb4RoCfskQAvD_BwE They can be found much cheaper than this one. Takes about 5 minutes or so to do the job, most of that is in connecting it.

 

[Greyman50]

Our HVAC system was in attic so every 6 months I dumped bleach in the drain pan, no issues. Easy to get to after I put flooring to get to unit and several lights. Will do same when I get another home.

 

[Marine Corps Air]

I like the solution that chief38 used! We have two HVAC units in our basement that create condensation. The lazy rascal that built our home ran both condensation drain lines through our home and out to the compressor units. We had a problem similar to chief 38, but the termite inspectors (they are a problem in Georgia) went nuts. Fortunately for me there is a washing machine drain six feet from both units. Both units have a Little Giant sump pump. I bought 50' of clear drain line from Amazon and re-routed the condensation lines from the pumps to the drain opening. Later I added a dehumidifier and the condensation drain goes to the Little Giant pumps and out of our home. Problems solved!

Bill

 

[ladder13]

We have an upstairs and downstairs unit. The downstairs unit empties in the mulch bed.
I could never find the upstairs drain, looking everywhere. During our spring service last year the tech informed us that the builders tie into the washing machine drain which goes out into the main drain. I guess we are cleaning right out into the street.

 

[WR Moore]

This depends upon just how long and complicated your condensate drain lines. But one of the issues in many drain lines is the use of 90 degree fittings in the line. Our upstairs unit had 6. After I replaced 2 of them (closest to the AC unit) with 2 45 degree fittings to improve water flow, the problems were greatly reduced. I wanted to do another, but it was going to be a major project to do that. Also redid the drain line from the emergency catch pan under the unit. AFTER I jacked up the unit and moved the pan to be better placed. Also helped to have that drain on a better angle-not that it's been needed much since I redid the primary condensate drain.

 

[chief38]

My shop vac will empty the line from one end to the other. I have to refill the line with water to keep the air handler from sucking air through it.

I know - that is why this high pressure water flush system works so well. My days of using a Shop Vac for this purpose are over.

 

[wood714]

Since 2001 my AC drain has clogged once. Used a shop vac to clean it out. I forgot to pop the float valve out and pour bleach down it. That's what the builder of the house told me to do.

Had a new unit put in a few years ago, they told me to use vinegar. I pour a little down every couple months.

 

[chief38]

This works well for me. https://nydirect.com/products/recto...hgReoWWvthO2jIUdCrJGojeW8iYmCb4RoCfskQAvD_BwE They can be found much cheaper than this one. Takes about 5 minutes or so to do the job, most of that is in connecting it.

Yes - that works OK, just more of a hassle than turning two valves for 60 seconds, without even leaving the garage. Even my wife won't find anything to complain about this new system. lol

 

[chief38]

This depends upon just how long and complicated your condensate drain lines. But one of the issues in many drain lines is the use of 90 degree fittings in the line. Our upstairs unit had 6. After I replaced 2 of them (closest to the AC unit) with 2 45 degree fittings to improve water flow, the problems were greatly reduced. I wanted to do another, but it was going to be a major project to do that. Also redid the drain line from the emergency catch pan under the unit. AFTER I jacked up the unit and moved the pan to be better placed. Also helped to have that drain on a better angle-not that it's been needed much since I redid the primary condensate drain.

I agree - the more fitting a line has the more potential it has to catch bacteria and get clogged. Unfortunately many homes (including mine) have their lines inside the walls and unless one was to take apart the wall and be willing to re-do the line, there's not much that can be done about it.

 

[chief38]

This job took me about 2 hours and $33 to do. It wiil take me another 1 1/2 - 2 hours to spackle and paint. Then the ease and enjoyment of doing a task nbo on e really like to do becomes a cinch.

 

[chief38]

Here are the two final repair pictures. One after the first coat of joint compound and the other complete. I did my best to match the texturing on he sheetrock and it came out fairly descent - for my first attempt at texturing.

 

[Leonard]

My units are in the garage I installed a devise that allows me to hook up a garden hose, has shut off to prevent backing up in unit and it blows the line out very effective.