Pick one

[Beauseph]

I'm brand new to the revolver world. I've shot them and always thought they were "neat" but I never actually considered their reliability until I thought of all the malfunctions you can have with an autoloader compared to a revolver.

In addition, revolvers are the best looking handguns.

It seems that my timing is terrible as all of the older model Smiths have skyrocketed in price... well I guess I should've expected that (and I did). I missed out on the surplus/turn in sales from companies and now I've been researching based on what I can find online.

What should I look for in my first revolver? I'm partial to age, history, and older designs in my search. I do like the added value of them being used as police / military in their history - I don't necessary need a prior marked LE/MIL gun though.

My intended uses are mostly going to be range use and the occasional walk in the woods gun. It may be delegated to the wife's side of the bed since it's so easy to use in comparison to my decked out autoloaders with optics.

I'm going into this with limiting my purchase to one gun at this time. Like a, if you could only have one, which would it be, type of scenario. If I enjoy it, I may get others.

The options I've researched have been:

Model 10 (Dash 4, 5, 6)
Model 19 (Pre lock)
Model 66 (Pre lock)
Model 686+ (Prefer pre lock but that's been thin picking)

I've been trying to find a decent price for these and they've seemed to be all over online. Anybody able to give me a good range to start with/go by?

I've gravitated toward a 4 inch barrel and I don't have a huge preference on blued vs SS.

As far as caliber, I'm not terribly partial but I'd think a .357 capable gun is the best option currently since you can run 38s through it.

Any other insight, recommendations, pricing history, etc is greatly appreciated.

 

[22hipower]

They're like potato chips, nobody can have just one. But you have to start somewhere and those you've listed are as good a place to start as any. Personally of those listed I'd go with a 4 inch M19 or 66. Whichever I found first at a reasonable price ($600-$900 where I shop) without box/papers/etc. While I was looking for one, should I stumble on a Combat Masterpiece .22 (M18) I'd grab that too. After those, the sky is the limit. Good luck and be sure and show them off here. And welcome to the Forum.

Jeff
SWCA #1457

 

[Beauseph]

They're like potato chips, nobody can have just one. But you have to start somewhere and those you've listed are as good a place to start as any. Personally of those listed I'd go with a 4 inch M19 or 66. Whichever I found first at a reasonable price ($600-$900 where I shop) without box/papers/etc. While I was looking for one, should I stumble on a Combat Masterpiece .22 (M18) I'd grab that too. After those, the sky is the limit. Good luck and be sure and show them off here. And welcome to the Forum.

Jeff
SWCA #1457

I appreciate the reply. So far I'm leaning toward the 19/66 with a slight preference to the 19 because a blued gun is nicer to my eyes to look at.

Finding one seems to be the difficulty, at least locally. I've been to no less than a dozen gun stores and pawn shops with no luck finding any of the listed models.

What's the range on that M18?

 

[ColumbusJBR]

All of those are fine choices. If you want the flexibility to handle .357 rounds, eliminate the model 10.

I’ve yet to meet a person who dislikes their Model 19 or 66 (They’re essentially the same gun, 19 is usually blued, 66 is stainless). K frame is a great size, adjustable sights, .357 mag flexibility… what’s not to love?

686 also a fine weapon, albeit a little beefier than the K frames. If you want to shoot a LOT of .357, the 686 was designed specifically to handle that. Not that you can’t shoot .357 in the 19 or 66, but there have been rare but documented instances of the forcing cone cracking due to overuse of hot .357s… just something to consider. I wouldn’t let that deter me from a 19 or 66 if they check all the other boxes.

For realistic pricing, it’s helpful to check completed auctions on GB. Gives you a current idea of what people are willing to pay, and just as important, AREN’T willing to pay.

And IF I could only have 1? That depends on the person, but personally I’ll be dead and gone before I sell my blued Model 19 4”. It’s mine forever

 

[JBTrucker]

I've owned all of the models listed would choose Model 66 . Blued guns are nice but most used and show scratches and wear. You can cold blue but usually rubs off . Stainless can be lightly sanded and polished . other models 64 ,67 and Model 65 mag. Other common blued model would be Model 14

 

[bananaman]

Welcome to the FORUM from Michigan! Once you start you want more! Good luck with your search. Bob

 

[Truckman]

I've always told newcomers to choose what fits the hand well, but even having said that the K-frames you listed are easily adapted to any size/shape hand by changing the grips...I would suggest any .38/.357 that fits your budget as a first one since you'll have a very wide variety of target/plinking/defensive ammo to choose from...Of the ones listed you have one with fixed sights and the others with adjustable sights...Choose the sights that are quickly acquired by your vision...Those are my suggestions based on what you have listed...

And welcome to our sickness...There is no cure, nor should there be......Ben

 

[Buzzzer]

Range and "walk in the woods" gun, the 686 since most can handle the weight for those kinds of instances (unless you plan on spending hours upon hours in the woods). If you would plan on daily carrying the 66 hands down. I have the 686+ and while it's a superb firearm with an excellent trigger it gets a little long on the tooth for EDC as far as weight is concerned. I'm on the lookout for a good 66.

As has already been mentioned get your hands on them and see what feels best. If it feels good in your hand you'll shoot good with it. I've never seen the opposite so far...

Welcome to the addicts club!

 

[Yendor 1]

As long as it has adjustable sights, you can’t go wrong.

 

[Beauseph]

I really appreciate all of the replies and information provided! It seems I made a great decision by joining up.

I've been hesitant on the 686 because of the extra weight. When I go into the woods, it's normal for me to be out there for an easier counted amount of days rather than hours, so weight is a factor.

That being said, I've carried my full size 20 round Staccato P on over night trips already. I'd consider the revolver for shorter, lighter weight type treks rather than over night, deep woods excursions.

It seems I'm settling on a model 19 the most. I don't mind that the bluing shows some wear and age, as long as I do my part, it should be a non-issue as far as corrosion / pitting is concerned. I just like the look of blued better.

 

[Frailer]

If I had a desire to shoot .357 magnums, I’d buy a 686.

But as you say you don’t have your heart set on this I’d vote for a 4” Model 10. They are the quintessential service revolver, they’re easy to find, they are the least expensive of the presented options, and they’re a hoot to shoot.

 

[Bald1]

If you want a revolver. Buy the epitome of a revolver. S&W 10-5 or 10-6 depending on your barrel preference. You’ll never regret it

 

[Beauseph]

If I had a desire to shoot .357 magnums, I’d buy a 686.

But as you say you don’t have your heart set on this I’d vote for a 4” Model 10. They are the quintessential service revolver, they’re easy to find, they are the least expensive of the presented options, and they’re a hoot to shoot.

I like the option of being able to load some 357 for the woods, if desired. How does the 10 hold up to .38 +P?

 

[AveragEd]

You sound a little like me. My first firearm was a four-inch Model 19 with the "three Ts" - target trigger, target hammer and target sights. I now own 22 Smith & Wesson pre-lock, pre-MIM revolvers, including the Model 66 version of that Model 19 (pictured below) so they are infectious. My suggestion is a four-inch Model 66 because of its flexibility - it can be used for target shooting, hunting and self-protection as that barrel length is not unhandy to carry - and its low-maintenance finish. Three of my S&Ws are Model 66s.

The slightly larger-framed Model 686s are nice - I have a small fleet of them as well - but the K-frame is to me just a little nicer. All that said, if you can find a nice older Model 19 their bluing is gorgeous. Shucks, you could just buy them all!

Ed

 

[Truckman]

Shucks, you could just buy them all!

No you can't!...I've been trying for years...Everytime I think I've bought them all, there's another one on the horizon...I feel like the poor, drunken Canadian sailor who sat crying under the billboard that read "Drink Canada Dry!"...He lamented over and over, "It can't be done, it can't be done!"......Ben

 

[Beauseph]

You sound a little like me. My first firearm was a four-inch Model 19 with the "three Ts" - target trigger, target hammer and target stocks. I now own 22 Smith & Wesson pre-lock, pre-MIM revolvers, including the Model 66 version of that Model 19 (pictured below) so they are infectious. My suggestion is a four-inch Model 66 because of its flexibility - it can be used for target shooting, hunting and self-protection as that barrel length is not unhandy to carry - and its low-maintenance finish. Three of my S&Ws are Model 66s.

The slightly larger-framed Model 686s are nice - I have a small fleet of them as well - but the K-frame is to me just a little nicer. All that said, if you can find a nice older Model 19 their bluing is gorgeous. Shucks, you could just buy them all!

Ed

I do have to say that 66 looks gorgeous. I'm back and forth for sure whether 19 or 66. Maybe both is the right answer.

Does a 66 normally take more out of the wallet to purchase compared to a 19?

 

[steelslaver]

A model 19 or 66 in decent shape will fire 38 specials forever and a lot of 357 mags if you use bullets around 158gr and don't +p absolute max loads on the 357s. A 4" 686 will digest a lot of about anything and is about 42oz while a the 19 or 66 are about 36oz

If your really weight conscious and only fire a couple hundred 357s a year go with the K frame Or you could keep an eye out for a 386. A Scandium alloy L frame 357 that is about 18 oz

So says the guy with J, K and N frame 357s LOL. The 5 shot J steel frame is kind of brutal and having several scandium 44 specials and 45 acps, I will tell you the recoil with the real light guns is "SNAPPY"

 

[Hondo44]

When comparing on-line auction prices be sure to only look at SOLD auction prices under completed auctions.

 

[Frailer]

I like the option of being able to load some 357 for the woods, if desired. How does the 10 hold up to .38 +P?

The SAAMI max pressure for .357 Magnum is 75% higher than that for 38 +P. I would trust a Model 10 to stand up to a steady diet of the latter much more than I would a trust Model 19 to stand up to a steady diet of the former.

 

[MelvinWalker]

Having carried and qualified with a K frame for 20 years, my personal overall choice is a Model 64 4 inch...I have a really nice Model 10, Model 15, 1969 Colt Trooper MkIII, etc. but a basic K frame stainless is just hard to beat.

With stainless, you don't have that inevitable cylinder drag wear line that is so obvious on a blued gun...Plus, the fact that the value is never going to go down...If you want L frame, the 4 inch pre-lock 686 is awesome too...But again, go stainless if you plan on using the gun...You can always buff a little cylinder drag line away from a stainless gun....Blue requires major surgery.

 

[Beauseph]

Having carried and qualified with a K frame for 20 years, my personal overall choice is a Model 64 4 inch...I have a really nice Model 10, Model 15, 1969 Colt Trooper MkIII, etc. but a basic K frame stainless is just hard to beat.

With stainless, you don't have that inevitable cylinder drag wear line that is so obvious on a blued gun...Plus, the fact that the value is never going to go down...If you want L frame, the 4 inch pre-lock 686 is awesome too...But again, go stainless if you plan on using the gun...You can always buff a little cylinder drag line away from a stainless gun....Blue requires major surgery.

I appreciate the reply and advice regarding stainless. I've been slowly convinced that maybe I should grab up a stainless variant over blued. If I get into collecting these, then I'll grab a blued or two that will be occasional shooters and keep the stainless for carry options.

 

[MajorD]

Blue finish ( I detest the looks of stainless myself) holds up a ton better than most people believe or say and I don’t care for this steady diet commentary we see a lot. Unless you reload or are a rich guy, you simply are not going to shoot full house magnums or plus p 38’s routinely. I know lots of revolver people and no one does. They use standard pressure 38’s 90+% of the time, leaving full house loads for carry and maybe shooting a few boxes a year. At that rate a gun in good condition will function fine until your great grand child inherits it.

 

[dwh]

I'll throw a fly in the ointment. Let's not forget the about the 4in model 13/65's.

 

[Beauseph]

I'll throw a fly in the ointment. Let's not forget the about the 4in model 13/65's.

Did not know about these. Thanks!

 

[xfarfuldog]

When I was a police officer I mostly carried a Python. At that time,we were not allowed to carry a stainless gun. My 4" blued Python does show wear from daily carry. (Still in my safe after 40+ years) When stainless was finally approved, I bought a model 66 and loved it. I tried a 4" model 686 but found it too heavy for daily carry. Today I have several K frames in my safe but no L frames. As others have said the 686 is a great gun, it is better for magnum use but too heavy. Buy a 66.

 

[Hawg Rider]

Welcome to the Forum, Beauseph! You've come to the wrong place if you want a suggestion on purchasing ONE revolver. I don't think that there's anyone here on the Forum that owns and/or shoots only one S&W revolver. Collecting or acquiring vintage S&W revolvers is addicting, and there's no 12-step Plan to help you! LOL! You will get dozens of opinions and suggestions, but only you can decide in which direction you want to go. Personally, I'm a fan of the larger N-frame revolvers, but I do have some great K-frames (early M&Ps, K-22s, Model 10s, 19s). L-frames (like the 686s) are fantastic revolvers, too. I also prefer adjustable rear target sights on my revolvers in lieu of the simple fixed "combat" sights. Price wise, a 686 or Model 10 (.38 Spl) would probably be the cheapest purchase options. But the blued Model 19s are beautiful revolvers and a blast to shoot. I have a 4" 19-3 (1973) Texas Ranger Commemorative and a 2-1/2" 19-4 nickel snubby and I really like them both. I'm sure that the Model 66s are great too. Like you said earlier, maybe you need a Model 19 and a Model 66 to kick off your collection! Good luck with your search!

 

[otis24]

If you are going to shoot magnums, I would suggest L frame. Model 686 or it’s fixed sight brethren,Models 581 or 681.

 

[BLACKHAWKNJ]

I recommend adjustable sight guns, IMHO fixed sights are either for nostalgia or collectability.
I have often seen the M-19/M-66 described as a "38 that can shoot .357s" though some will dispute that. For steady shooting of .357s the S&W N or L frame-the latter was designed IMHO to compete with Colt Python/Trooper, I have seen few complaints that they cannot hold up to steady shootig of magnum loads.

 

[Doug M.]

I can't see the standard fixed sights well enough for my purposes, but the platforms are capable of the same accuracy. A standard .38 of reasonably modern manufacture (anytime 1930 or later, probably) will stand up fine to 38+p. The late member Art Doc/Saxon Pig posted a lot about his research indicating that modern +p is not that hot compared to old school .38s (especially the .38/44 load, which S&W allowed in any K or large platform).

Part of your decision making for the woods gun is what you reasonably might encounter. 2 legged predators and nothing bigger than a wolf or cougar, the 357 is fine. Most of the 4 legged critters want to avoid you unless they are sick, weak, etc. Depending on your climate, stainless might be preferable. I have a slightly customized 4" 66 (gold bead front sight and action job from the PC, round butted by BMCM) that I shoot well. I have qualified with stout-ish .357 loads (Silvertips), but for most uses prefer .38 SWC. If shooting a LOT of 357s, the L or even N frame are better choices. Very few will shoot more than a couple hundred full house .357 in a year due to expense. I happen to dislike the full lug barrel which eliminates most L frames.

There is little wrong with a 19/66 for starting out. You can shoot light target loads to train initially and make empties if you want to reload, then move up to heftier loads when you feel like it. LE learned that training/qualification with the target loads and then carrying duty ammo is not a good practice. I'll admit that most of my training is with auto-pistols as I started in LE during the transition period to those, but my first duty weapon was a .41 magnum (M 58).

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

Everyone started some place and 38/357 is as good a place as any. In the last 45 years, I have owned between 95 and 105 S&W revolvers and currently have 16. 4" guns are a standard for holster carry since WWII, but 5" and longer were common before that. That may be a holdover from Black Powder days.

The most common S&W revolver has to be the Model 10, called a M&P before 1957 model numbers never existed. The stainless equivalent is the Model 64 (Not old enough to have a name). I have owned several 10's and one 64, and find them to be a tried and true standard for firearms! The 4" guns I had all shot about the same accuracy. I stumbled into a 6" model 10-7 as it was being traded in. It is the most accurate fixed sight gun I have ever owned. You might wish the "Lengthen your List" when finding used guns.

As to 357's; they started in N frames, which can be considered heavy for all day/everyday carry. So, S&W brought out K frame 357's as duty guns. They have a few minor problems as a group (but not many problems as individual shooters). SO, S&W brough out the 586/686 series (581/681 is the fixed sight version). N-frame upper half, K frame grip, weight about in the middle. I had One 4", a "No-dash" with the "M" (for factory recall service), my brother had a 586 6". We found nothing that outstanding about the guns and opted for 4" or 6" N frames.

3" N-frames are a niche gun all their own, and worth a long look at.

I would like to invite you to a different area of S&W revolvers: The big bores! From turn of the Twentieth Century 44 Specials, through the WWI 1917's in 45 ACP, the 1920's with Steer carved grips, the late 30's in 357's, The Military Targets in 44 Special & 45 Colt to the "Dirty Harry Days" of 44 Magnum. There is also the "Cult Following" of the models 57 & 58, in 41 mag.

The Wonderful World of N Frames! My personal shortest is a 629-10 with a 2 5/8" barrel to my longest, a 29-3 Classic with a 8 3/8" barrel. There are dozens of variants, and always something new on the Horizon! As both a warning and an encouragement remember: IT ONLY TAKE ONE TO BECOME HOOKED! My first was and is my 4" Model 28-2, in 357, I shoot it with a fairly heavy loaded 180 grain load I developed for a companion carbine. The heavy load has a felt recoil of a target load in a 4" model 10!

Yes, N frames will pull your pants down, if you let them! They will also cure whatever ails you, if you give them a chance.

In addition to your N frames, you also NEED a brace of 22's. A K-22 (model 17/617) with a 6" barrel is considered to be one of the finest revolvers on earth. A Kit Gun (J frame 22 with 3 or 4 inch barrel) is also a fine gun for anyone outdoors.

This is totally outside the area you were looking at, and uninvited, however I didn't want you to wander around for years without knowing the JOYS (and expense) of the world of N-Frames.

Ivan