I appreciate the reply and advice regarding stainless. I've been slowly convinced that maybe I should grab up a stainless variant over blued. If I get into collecting these, then I'll grab a blued or two that will be occasional shooters and keep the stainless for carry options.
Pick one
- Thread starter Beauseph
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I appreciate the reply and advice regarding stainless. I've been slowly convinced that maybe I should grab up a stainless variant over blued. If I get into collecting these, then I'll grab a blued or two that will be occasional shooters and keep the stainless for carry options.
Blue finish ( I detest the looks of stainless myself) holds up a ton better than most people believe or say and I don’t care for this steady diet commentary we see a lot. Unless you reload or are a rich guy, you simply are not going to shoot full house magnums or plus p 38’s routinely. I know lots of revolver people and no one does. They use standard pressure 38’s 90+% of the time, leaving full house loads for carry and maybe shooting a few boxes a year. At that rate a gun in good condition will function fine until your great grand child inherits it.
I'll throw a fly in the ointment. Let's not forget the about the 4in model 13/65's.
xfarfuldog
Member
When I was a police officer I mostly carried a Python. At that time,we were not allowed to carry a stainless gun. My 4" blued Python does show wear from daily carry. (Still in my safe after 40+ years) When stainless was finally approved, I bought a model 66 and loved it. I tried a 4" model 686 but found it too heavy for daily carry. Today I have several K frames in my safe but no L frames. As others have said the 686 is a great gun, it is better for magnum use but too heavy. Buy a 66.
Welcome to the Forum, Beauseph! You've come to the wrong place if you want a suggestion on purchasing ONE revolver. I don't think that there's anyone here on the Forum that owns and/or shoots only one S&W revolver. Collecting or acquiring vintage S&W revolvers is addicting, and there's no 12-step Plan to help you! LOL! You will get dozens of opinions and suggestions, but only you can decide in which direction you want to go. Personally, I'm a fan of the larger N-frame revolvers, but I do have some great K-frames (early M&Ps, K-22s, Model 10s, 19s). L-frames (like the 686s) are fantastic revolvers, too. I also prefer adjustable rear target sights on my revolvers in lieu of the simple fixed "combat" sights. Price wise, a 686 or Model 10 (.38 Spl) would probably be the cheapest purchase options. But the blued Model 19s are beautiful revolvers and a blast to shoot. I have a 4" 19-3 (1973) Texas Ranger Commemorative and a 2-1/2" 19-4 nickel snubby and I really like them both. I'm sure that the Model 66s are great too. Like you said earlier, maybe you need a Model 19 and a Model 66 to kick off your collection! Good luck with your search!
otis24
Member
If you are going to shoot magnums, I would suggest L frame. Model 686 or it’s fixed sight brethren,Models 581 or 681.
BLACKHAWKNJ
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I recommend adjustable sight guns, IMHO fixed sights are either for nostalgia or collectability.
I have often seen the M-19/M-66 described as a "38 that can shoot .357s" though some will dispute that. For steady shooting of .357s the S&W N or L frame-the latter was designed IMHO to compete with Colt Python/Trooper, I have seen few complaints that they cannot hold up to steady shootig of magnum loads.
I have often seen the M-19/M-66 described as a "38 that can shoot .357s" though some will dispute that. For steady shooting of .357s the S&W N or L frame-the latter was designed IMHO to compete with Colt Python/Trooper, I have seen few complaints that they cannot hold up to steady shootig of magnum loads.
Doug M.
Member
I can't see the standard fixed sights well enough for my purposes, but the platforms are capable of the same accuracy. A standard .38 of reasonably modern manufacture (anytime 1930 or later, probably) will stand up fine to 38+p. The late member Art Doc/Saxon Pig posted a lot about his research indicating that modern +p is not that hot compared to old school .38s (especially the .38/44 load, which S&W allowed in any K or large platform).
Part of your decision making for the woods gun is what you reasonably might encounter. 2 legged predators and nothing bigger than a wolf or cougar, the 357 is fine. Most of the 4 legged critters want to avoid you unless they are sick, weak, etc. Depending on your climate, stainless might be preferable. I have a slightly customized 4" 66 (gold bead front sight and action job from the PC, round butted by BMCM) that I shoot well. I have qualified with stout-ish .357 loads (Silvertips), but for most uses prefer .38 SWC. If shooting a LOT of 357s, the L or even N frame are better choices. Very few will shoot more than a couple hundred full house .357 in a year due to expense. I happen to dislike the full lug barrel which eliminates most L frames.
There is little wrong with a 19/66 for starting out. You can shoot light target loads to train initially and make empties if you want to reload, then move up to heftier loads when you feel like it. LE learned that training/qualification with the target loads and then carrying duty ammo is not a good practice. I'll admit that most of my training is with auto-pistols as I started in LE during the transition period to those, but my first duty weapon was a .41 magnum (M 58).
Part of your decision making for the woods gun is what you reasonably might encounter. 2 legged predators and nothing bigger than a wolf or cougar, the 357 is fine. Most of the 4 legged critters want to avoid you unless they are sick, weak, etc. Depending on your climate, stainless might be preferable. I have a slightly customized 4" 66 (gold bead front sight and action job from the PC, round butted by BMCM) that I shoot well. I have qualified with stout-ish .357 loads (Silvertips), but for most uses prefer .38 SWC. If shooting a LOT of 357s, the L or even N frame are better choices. Very few will shoot more than a couple hundred full house .357 in a year due to expense. I happen to dislike the full lug barrel which eliminates most L frames.
There is little wrong with a 19/66 for starting out. You can shoot light target loads to train initially and make empties if you want to reload, then move up to heftier loads when you feel like it. LE learned that training/qualification with the target loads and then carrying duty ammo is not a good practice. I'll admit that most of my training is with auto-pistols as I started in LE during the transition period to those, but my first duty weapon was a .41 magnum (M 58).
Ivan the Butcher
Member
Everyone started some place and 38/357 is as good a place as any. In the last 45 years, I have owned between 95 and 105 S&W revolvers and currently have 16. 4" guns are a standard for holster carry since WWII, but 5" and longer were common before that. That may be a holdover from Black Powder days.
The most common S&W revolver has to be the Model 10, called a M&P before 1957 model numbers never existed. The stainless equivalent is the Model 64 (Not old enough to have a name). I have owned several 10's and one 64, and find them to be a tried and true standard for firearms! The 4" guns I had all shot about the same accuracy. I stumbled into a 6" model 10-7 as it was being traded in. It is the most accurate fixed sight gun I have ever owned. You might wish the "Lengthen your List" when finding used guns.
As to 357's; they started in N frames, which can be considered heavy for all day/everyday carry. So, S&W brought out K frame 357's as duty guns. They have a few minor problems as a group (but not many problems as individual shooters). SO, S&W brough out the 586/686 series (581/681 is the fixed sight version). N-frame upper half, K frame grip, weight about in the middle. I had One 4", a "No-dash" with the "M" (for factory recall service), my brother had a 586 6". We found nothing that outstanding about the guns and opted for 4" or 6" N frames.
3" N-frames are a niche gun all their own, and worth a long look at.
I would like to invite you to a different area of S&W revolvers: The big bores! From turn of the Twentieth Century 44 Specials, through the WWI 1917's in 45 ACP, the 1920's with Steer carved grips, the late 30's in 357's, The Military Targets in 44 Special & 45 Colt to the "Dirty Harry Days" of 44 Magnum. There is also the "Cult Following" of the models 57 & 58, in 41 mag.
The Wonderful World of N Frames! My personal shortest is a 629-10 with a 2 5/8" barrel to my longest, a 29-3 Classic with a 8 3/8" barrel. There are dozens of variants, and always something new on the Horizon! As both a warning and an encouragement remember: IT ONLY TAKE ONE TO BECOME HOOKED! My first was and is my 4" Model 28-2, in 357, I shoot it with a fairly heavy loaded 180 grain load I developed for a companion carbine. The heavy load has a felt recoil of a target load in a 4" model 10!
Yes, N frames will pull your pants down, if you let them! They will also cure whatever ails you, if you give them a chance.
In addition to your N frames, you also NEED a brace of 22's. A K-22 (model 17/617) with a 6" barrel is considered to be one of the finest revolvers on earth. A Kit Gun (J frame 22 with 3 or 4 inch barrel) is also a fine gun for anyone outdoors.
This is totally outside the area you were looking at, and uninvited, however I didn't want you to wander around for years without knowing the JOYS (and expense) of the world of N-Frames.
Ivan
The most common S&W revolver has to be the Model 10, called a M&P before 1957 model numbers never existed. The stainless equivalent is the Model 64 (Not old enough to have a name). I have owned several 10's and one 64, and find them to be a tried and true standard for firearms! The 4" guns I had all shot about the same accuracy. I stumbled into a 6" model 10-7 as it was being traded in. It is the most accurate fixed sight gun I have ever owned. You might wish the "Lengthen your List" when finding used guns.
As to 357's; they started in N frames, which can be considered heavy for all day/everyday carry. So, S&W brought out K frame 357's as duty guns. They have a few minor problems as a group (but not many problems as individual shooters). SO, S&W brough out the 586/686 series (581/681 is the fixed sight version). N-frame upper half, K frame grip, weight about in the middle. I had One 4", a "No-dash" with the "M" (for factory recall service), my brother had a 586 6". We found nothing that outstanding about the guns and opted for 4" or 6" N frames.
3" N-frames are a niche gun all their own, and worth a long look at.
I would like to invite you to a different area of S&W revolvers: The big bores! From turn of the Twentieth Century 44 Specials, through the WWI 1917's in 45 ACP, the 1920's with Steer carved grips, the late 30's in 357's, The Military Targets in 44 Special & 45 Colt to the "Dirty Harry Days" of 44 Magnum. There is also the "Cult Following" of the models 57 & 58, in 41 mag.
The Wonderful World of N Frames! My personal shortest is a 629-10 with a 2 5/8" barrel to my longest, a 29-3 Classic with a 8 3/8" barrel. There are dozens of variants, and always something new on the Horizon! As both a warning and an encouragement remember: IT ONLY TAKE ONE TO BECOME HOOKED! My first was and is my 4" Model 28-2, in 357, I shoot it with a fairly heavy loaded 180 grain load I developed for a companion carbine. The heavy load has a felt recoil of a target load in a 4" model 10!
Yes, N frames will pull your pants down, if you let them! They will also cure whatever ails you, if you give them a chance.
In addition to your N frames, you also NEED a brace of 22's. A K-22 (model 17/617) with a 6" barrel is considered to be one of the finest revolvers on earth. A Kit Gun (J frame 22 with 3 or 4 inch barrel) is also a fine gun for anyone outdoors.
This is totally outside the area you were looking at, and uninvited, however I didn't want you to wander around for years without knowing the JOYS (and expense) of the world of N-Frames.
Ivan
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You cannot go wrong with a 4-in Model 10 as a first revolver. It is the least costly option, there are plenty of good used revolvers for sale, it will handle all the 38 spl +P you want to shoot, and there are excellent modern hollow-point cartridges available.
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No idea where you are but don’t rush into anything. By chance you live in a normal state where there are no crazy gun laws drive a little and save a lot. Go to some small town gun shows and see what there. Look up what and how to check any revolver for miss use or damage. By chance you know some one that is already “ into revolvers” ask them for help.
Oldengineer
Member
I would not rule out a nickel plated gun if you are concerned about the durability of a blue finish.
Aukula1062
Member
It's really hard to beat a Model 19. While prices are indeed climbing you can still find a clean pre-lock 19 for under a grand. I lucked into the one below at a local gun shop a year or two ago for around that price. Yes I know there are guys claiming they find these for $600 all the time, but they obviously don't live where I do.
And BTW not sure what your budget is, but if it's under $1500 don't rule out the new Colt Pythons either. Hopefully I don't get banned for saying that.
And BTW not sure what your budget is, but if it's under $1500 don't rule out the new Colt Pythons either. Hopefully I don't get banned for saying that.
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mikeruns
Member
If I were to choose just one, it would be a 4” model 686.
I have a model 65 which is close to weight of the 4” 686 and have carried them both many hours a day in the hills and trails and in a sturdy holster and belt, I for one, cannot feel any difference in heft on the belt as the L frame is only 4 or 6 ounces heavier than the k frame heavy bbl. I have found the L frame to be the easiest to hit with and when in hand on target, that is where I feel a bit more heft in terms of stability/balance. I also have a 6” 686 and it balances a little more nose heavy but not problematic….
One might think about a shorter barrel such as the 3” or 2.5” L frame or the 2.5” model 66. Another favorite is the k frame model 15s’ with tapered 4” and now that is definitely a lighter feel also with excellent handling and accuracy…..I also have a 2” model 15 and it is a honey….the model 15 is a k frame .38 with adjustable sights that shoots +p quite well too….you have a lot to consider, good luck!
I have a model 65 which is close to weight of the 4” 686 and have carried them both many hours a day in the hills and trails and in a sturdy holster and belt, I for one, cannot feel any difference in heft on the belt as the L frame is only 4 or 6 ounces heavier than the k frame heavy bbl. I have found the L frame to be the easiest to hit with and when in hand on target, that is where I feel a bit more heft in terms of stability/balance. I also have a 6” 686 and it balances a little more nose heavy but not problematic….
One might think about a shorter barrel such as the 3” or 2.5” L frame or the 2.5” model 66. Another favorite is the k frame model 15s’ with tapered 4” and now that is definitely a lighter feel also with excellent handling and accuracy…..I also have a 2” model 15 and it is a honey….the model 15 is a k frame .38 with adjustable sights that shoots +p quite well too….you have a lot to consider, good luck!
Jack Flash
Member
My first revolver was a 4" M-19. I bought it for its touted versatility, ruggedness, reasonable size/weight, ... It was a good choice and served me well for many years. For full-power .357s, the blast and flash really gets your attention out of a 4" barrel. I personally sure wouldn't want to try these in anything any shorter.
Later on I came across "deals too good to pass up" on a nickel 4" M10-6 and a blue 3" M10-7. Both of these are great guns. The 3" has become my favorite. Of all the guns mentioned so far, I would bet that your wife would find it to be her favorite too. Of course both of these guns are .38 Special Only but that's all most people shoot out of Magnums anyway.
I looked at your profile and didn't see a geographic location, so I don't know if wolf/cougar/bear encounters are a realistic possibility. If so, I would just suggest carrying one of your autoloaders. At least you'd have more shots (if it doesn't jam).
Later on I came across "deals too good to pass up" on a nickel 4" M10-6 and a blue 3" M10-7. Both of these are great guns. The 3" has become my favorite. Of all the guns mentioned so far, I would bet that your wife would find it to be her favorite too. Of course both of these guns are .38 Special Only but that's all most people shoot out of Magnums anyway.
I looked at your profile and didn't see a geographic location, so I don't know if wolf/cougar/bear encounters are a realistic possibility. If so, I would just suggest carrying one of your autoloaders. At least you'd have more shots (if it doesn't jam).
I've reached out and most of my colleagues aren't into revolvers. WI is still mostly normal for now.
