Picked Up New TRR8 this Morning

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bigfatty

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Doing this on my phone while waiting at mt dentist's office, so it ain't gonna be perfect, but I stopped at the ffl to pick up my new TRR8 on the way. Mostly good to report initially.

Barrel seems straight. No dings or scratches I could find on the frame. Cylinder gap is .006. Tight lockup but with a little bit of play ... haven't gotten one rock solid yet.

The trigger is smooth and feels to be about 10 pounds; about in between my 686+ PC and my new M66. Really light for a revolver this big.

The bad: a pretty nasty tool gouge on the left outer side of an otherwise perfect, brightly polished forcing cone. And it feels pretty nasty, too. :(

Will try to get pics up after my torture session and will ask advice about the gouge -- I really don't wanna send it back.
 
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Question: Before photographing I'd like to install the rails and check the new RMR out on it ... is it "necessary" to loctite the screws, or only if there's a problem?
 
Here it is with the rails and RMR mounted (with loctite ... thanks, colt).

image.jpg1_zpsxa19cp1g.jpg

Here is the forcing cone gouge ... looks mostly cosmetic, may have the local LGS smith file and sand it down, I'll see if it becomes a problem.

image.jpg2_zps9rxep3mo.jpg


I'm having a hard time picking up the dot on the RMR, but no problem with the Fastfire III ... the RMR seems like it was a return; I'll have to think about what to do as to whether to return the $600 sight and go with the $250 sight, or just try to keep training with it and give it time. I'm figuring for home defense I'd probably put a Streamlight TLR2G light-green laser combo on it, anyway, but for hunting when I can get to it, a red dot would come in handy, I'd think.

Anyone have any experience with the RMR vs. a FFIII on a revolver?
 
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Gouge on the outside of the forcing cone is just cosmetic. I wouldn't worry about it. Just shoot it!
 
Looks great

I had trouble getting used to my RMR, but I had been using the giant Tasco ProPoint 5s before that.

You may not realize this, but you have an IFS (Interchangeable Front Sight) on that barrel. Since you have optics mounted you could remove the front sight.
 
BF, that is one fine looking revolver. Looking forward to hearing how it shoots.

I would not think twice about the small chips.
 
Is the big "M&P" engraving on the other side or am I thinking of the wrong revolver, M&P R8? I like all the n frame 357's, and would love any of the 8 shot models. Excited for you. Hope it brings as lot of enjoyment.
 
HOUSTON RICK said:
Is the big "M&P" engraving on the other side or am I thinking of the wrong revolver, M&P R8? I like all the n frame 357's, and would love any of the 8 shot models. Excited for you. Hope it brings as lot of enjoyment.
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Thanks, Rick. No M&P engraving on this one.
 
davetnitro said:
i have something that looks like that, great shooter...

20150620_111952_zpsdup8r7ph.jpg
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Nice pair! How do the Miculek's compare size wise to the stock hard synthetic grips? About as thin? These grips seem a little toy like to me ... hollow noises coming out of 'em and all. I was thinking Miculek's or a set of the rosewood combats as on the 7.5" 629 PC. I really liked the feel of that gun and nearly bought it, but went for the TRR8 when it was all said and done.
 
Congratulations!!! I just shot my TRR8 last night for the first time. It is a tack driver! I am very curious as to how the FF holds up to revolver use. I have some shooting buddies that haven't had much luck with them on bottom feeders, and have moved to a RMR or a Delta Point. Also what are you looking at in the way of holsters? I'm looking at simply rugged made specific for my TRR8.
 
aktrp said:
Congratulations!!! I just shot my TRR8 last night for the first time. It is a tack driver! I am very curious as to how the FF holds up to revolver use. I have some shooting buddies that haven't had much luck with them on bottom feeders, and have moved to a RMR or a Delta Point. Also what are you looking at in the way of holsters? I'm looking at simply rugged made specific for my TRR8.
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Likewise! I'm sure the RMR is great, just that the one I have was messed around with -- way "off" to have been set this way at the factory ... if I wind up shooting the FF3 on it I'll be sure to update, but if I don't, I'll likely put it on my Model 66 so at some point I'll get some experience with it.

I was checking out Simply Rugged, but I'm not sure about whether they can do a pancake with both rails and a mini red dot attached. It looks like Garrett Industries does it with the Silent Thunder (original version), but that wouldn't conceal something so big all that great, I wouldn't think.

Please update on what you find, and I'll do the same. I've never paid this much money for something that didn't have an "11" in it, so I'm looking forward to seeing how this compares!
 
I figured if I was going to run an optic on it as a carry option I would just get some Kydex and make my own. It's not hard and you can customize it to fit you, and what exactly you want. This is my first big revolver my other is a little sp101. I'm new to revolvers and know what you mean about the "11". So I'm figuring it out as I go.
 
I ordered a holster from Falco Holsters for my Trr8. I specified which rail was to be mounted (lower) and it fit perfectly. I ordered a pancake and roto-shoulder holster for it. Both were excellent
 
Thanks. I've discovered a "ring" of tool marks/scratches in rifling of the barrel, apparently the result of a worn tool being used to screw the barrel in ... I posted here http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/350415-scratches-barrel.html#post138802730 but I don't think that area gets a lot of traffic.

Any experience with this issue anyone could share would be appreciated. I thought I was having a bad day, the gun was all over the place ... could still be, but I'd hate to have to buy a rest/vise that I don't really need just to find that out ... and God, I don't wanna have to send my 3rd new S&W revolver in 6 months back for service again ...
 
You seemed to have doubts regarding the sight you installed. Before I
got too excited, I would remove the sight and rail and fire it with the factory supplied open sights.

After the problems you have had, it would tend to make you super sensitive to anything which did not appear to be perfect which is understandable.

I have run into optical sights which drove me crazy until it was obvious that they were the problem and not the firearm.
 
frankcr said:
You seemed to have doubts regarding the sight you installed. Before I
got too excited, I would remove the sight and rail and fire it with the factory supplied open sights.

After the problems you have had, it would tend to make you super sensitive to anything which did not appear to be perfect which is understandable.

I have run into optical sights which drove me crazy until it was obvious that they were the problem and not the firearm.
Click to expand...

Point well taken, although the 38+p did "ok," but they started landing all over the target with 1500 fps 125's and 1300 fps 158's. I'll try, hopefully by the end of the week.
 
Hope it works out Friend. I will be disappointed along with you if there is an actual problem.

Those are some pretty hot loads which gave you problems. Maybe someone else who has shot those loads will chime in.
 
frankcr said:
Hope it works out Friend. I will be disappointed along with you if there is an actual problem.

Those are some pretty hot loads which gave you problems. Maybe someone else who has shot those loads will chime in.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Frank. Funny thing is, my Model 66 is a tack driver with the same loads and a few very minor adjustments to the rear sight, and the same for my 686 Plus Performance Center (that one makes my hands bleed with those loads, lol). I'll also try it with Golden Saber 357's (which would likely be the primary load for it, anyway). Those are about as weak a 357 load as you'll find, but they control well and do a great job on expansion and penetration on 4"-plus barreled revolvers, from the tests I've seen.
 
Feeler gauge sets are easy to find at Sears, Pep Boys, and auto parts stores. They come in a few different ranges of thickness. For guns, you need a set with thicknesses from .0015", .002" to .025 in .001" increments (.002 .003 .004 etc.). That's about a 25 blade set and only cost $5-$10. Get the flat blades, not the ones angled on the end. Don't get metric ones.
 
No, ABSOLUTELY sent it back to S&W, it's not covered by warranty so you may be looking at a $250 and up "repair" for a cosmetic issue?

I'll bet you go wild over car door dings :-)

Seriously, unless you live in a box of Q tips cosmetic things happen to handguns, fret less and shoot more :-) You did good, it's a great firearm. Comparing it to my other S&W's it took me a bit to get used to it give it some time at the range.
 
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