Picking a nickle S&W , pitfalls ?

[ANGST]

I have stainless , and blued , so obviously now , I need a nickle finished S&W of some type .

Are there any obvious signs that it is a factory original nickel finish across models ? I know the ejector is blued on most, but all ?

Picking up a used gun what should I look for as far as a "good" finish .

What would be some good models to target, looking for nice finish , not uber-rare , in .22LR , .38/357 , .44Spl/44Mag calibers ?

Thanks for any and all input here .

 

[blackdeuce]

Nickel is fairly soft and scratches if cleaned improperly. I believe some light abrasions can be removed with Flitz, but you can't get scratches out. Nickel can also peel like chrome. The blems will be obvious when you see them (if there are any). Most (if not all) factory nickel guns have an N stamped on the loading end of the cylinder (someone more knowledgeable than me may comment). A re-nickel might have a R-N stamp.

For affordable nickel guns, you might look at model 10's. I bought a nice 10-8 recently. I also have nickel versions of 19s, 27s, and 29s. The N frames will run more money, but you might find one at a decent price.

 

[XTrooper]

Nickel is fairly soft and scratches if cleaned improperly. I believe some light abrasions can be removed with Flitz, but you can't get scratches out. Nickel can also peel like chrome. The blems will be obvious when you see them (if there are any). Most (if not all) factory nickel guns have an N stamped on the loading end of the cylinder (someone more knowledgeable than me may comment). A re-nickel might have a R-N stamp.

For affordable nickel guns, you might look at model 10's. I bought a nice 10-8 recently. I also have nickel versions of 19s, 27s, and 29s. The N frames will run more money, but you might find one at a decent price.

Well said and bonus points for spelling nickel correctly.

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

My 40 yr old nickel 29's & 19's have held up exceptionally well. I love nickel Smiths. Wish all of mine were.

 

[fyimo]

Most factory nickel S&W revolvers have a N stamped on the frame under the grips and also a small N on the cylinder near the extractor star. I think a clean and waxed nickel revolver is the best looking of the S&W revolvers,

 

[blackdeuce]

This is my favorite nickel gun. It's a 27-2 transition gun (recessed cylinder, barrel not pinned). The checkered topstrap looks really neat when nickeled. I just bought this gun's twin, but I don't have it yet. The new purchase is a 1972-73 gun.

 

[Doc44]

This 44 Magnum with a nickel finish will be fifty-eight years old in a few months and looks nearly new.

Bill

 

[blackdeuce]

This 44 Magnum with a nickel finish will be fifty-eight years old in a few months and looks nearly new.

Bill

My gun looked nice until you posted yours. LOL.

 

[BigBill]

Any nickel S&W N Frame Revolver gets my juices a flow in. The rest of the other frames in nickel too. Nickel finish is a big part of the history of s&w revolvers. With everyone discontinuing there nickel finishes s&w is the last one still offering revolvers. S&W nickel finish was always at the top of the heap. Blue is cool, stainless is butter, but nickel is just freaking awesome.

We need to convert more of you blue and stainless guys/gals over to the shiney nickel side? Once you go nickel your spoiled forever.

Blackduce your nickel looks awesome the cylinder glows.

 

[blackdeuce]

Here's a 4" 29-2 in nickel. Not as nice as Bill's, but still a keeper.

 

[Art Doc]

You can look for the letter N stamped on the frame under the stocks if nickel is original finish. If the hammer and trigger are plated that's a sure sign of refinish as these parts are case hardened and not nickel.

This one is 44 years old and still looks nice. Was carried for 18 years as a duty weapon.

This one is 54 years old and still looks pretty good. It's not a safe queen like Doc44's 44 Magnum and has been used a lot. Note the front site is blued. At some point they started plating it, too.

This one is 64 years old and shows its age. Some pinpoints of corrosion here and there and not as shiny as it was when new.

 

[Twiki357]

If you want to go a little smaller, here's a factory nickel 2" Airweight (Pre Model 37) from 1956 and a factory nickel 3" Model 36-1 from 1977. Almost forgot the 32 Hand Ejector from around 1920/21.

Sorry for the poor quality of the pictures.

 

[STCM(SW)]

I have a few.
This one is a old one and shows it..


M28-2 but not done by S&W....

I use it in bad weather as a back-up hunting big game sometimes.

M25-2, best looking one I have.



An the one that goes in the truck or night stand, M10-6 HB.

It also the one that gets shot the most...

 

[glenncal1]

Nickel seems to knock down the price here in Denver, I picked up this 57



So I decided to get it a brother 58



Got 'em both for about $500, sorry for the crappy pix.

 

[BigBill]

My '80's used s&w m27-2 6" in nickel 99.999% condition looks just as good as my new nickel s&w's.

 

[JCS&W]

I am a big fan of S&W revolvers with a nickel finish. This is the oldest nickel Smith I own.

 

[410bore]

I much prefer blue but do have a couple shiny guns lying around.

 

[Rick_A]

As a rule keep any solvent that removes copper off the finish and be careful with tools and hard objects near the gun.

I avoid a solvents in general and wipe off any fingerprints as they can etch themselves if left there too long. Wax isn't a bad idea to keep it looking good after a wipe down.

Not being a big fan of nickel in the slightest, I ended up with two of 'em, as they were the models I wanted, found locally at good prices.

This one is mine:

This one I owe a payment or two yet:

 

[inventorguy]

I really like my nickeled revolvers too. If you are a true perfectionist and like nickel plated revolvers though, here's something that may give rise to a little disillusionment. I have a friend that visits the factory now and then and is on very good terms with them. He was told that most of the nickeled guns have welded up flaws in non-critical spots. They weld and then plate, as the blueing will not conceal the welds.

Dave

 

[BigBill]

Being a welder, I doubt it. The metallurgy changes after 400 degrees. Welding is much higher. There's a high liability risk in welding guns.
I can't see them welding before or after forging. I think s&w is smarter than that.

I inspected my nickel revolvers and can't see any welded areas under the nickel.