Play between yoke and frame
- Thread starter ANGST
- Start date
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Okay. I give. I've been looking at this photo (beautiful picture, by the way) for 5 minutes, and I can't see a problem.
I see the problem. No, I don't think this is "normal". Does the -3 have the newer spring loaded "pointed" yoke retaining screw? And does the yoke have a "v" groove (to match the pointed spring loaded retaining screw), or does it have the square bottomed groove to be used with the "Fitted" yoke retaining screw? It almost looks like it might be a older square bottomed yoke retaining screw slot with a pointed spring loaded retaining screw. This would cause the yoke to slide back and forth as I am seeing. Or, it might be an incorrectly fitted screw.
tomcatt51
Member
Looks a bit excessive. Is the yoke screw plunger free to move? Or stuck down in the screw? I think a -3 has the (new style) plunger type yoke screw.
OP
ANGST
Member
OK, emailed the pic to Smith , will see if they look at it.
tomcatt51
Member
I'd sure look at the yoke screw before I sent the gun back...
OP
ANGST
Member
Yeah I'll do that now that I figured out what a yoke screw exactly was
I am very new to any sort of "revolver-smithing" , but I have detail stripped Sigs, Berettas , and 1911s . Installed triggers , fitted some 1911 parts , built an AR15 from components , so I think I should try out revolvers next
So I should be good to back out the yoke screw with the properly sized screwdriver to inspect it correct ?
Will the whole yoke come out too if I pull on it with the screw out ?
Any "gotchas" I may run into , other parts that may fall out ?
Thanks for the assist here.
tomcatt51
Member
In the order asked:
Yes, just use a "good" screwdriver.
With the yoke screw removed, slide the yoke forward, towards the muzzle, to remove it. It will slide out of the frame and cylinder.
No "gotchas".
Take a pic of the strain screw so we can tell which "style" it is.
OP
ANGST
Member
OK, screw and yoke end.
Looks like the "dimple" is a little large maybe ??
Looks like the "dimple" is a little large maybe ??
tomcatt51
Member
That's the "new style" yoke screw.
That "dimple" in the yoke shouldn't be there.
It looks like the plunger in the yoke screw isn't extended like it should be, it looks like it's stuck in the screw body. Will it depress and then extend back out if you push it in?
That "dimple" in the yoke shouldn't be there.
It looks like the plunger in the yoke screw isn't extended like it should be, it looks like it's stuck in the screw body. Will it depress and then extend back out if you push it in?
OP
ANGST
Member
Yes, goes in a little bit. I have a new yoke screw on order as well.
Looks like you need a new yoke screw.
OP
ANGST
Member
On the way from Brownells
Says it's bead blasted, any good way to polish it to match ?
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Only thing I could think of would be to polish it with very fine (800 grit) emery paper or better and then finish on a rag wheel with jewelers rouge. Then cold blue with a couple coats and then some wax to protect. Wasn't there an option of bright blue or satin blue? Depending on the age of your gun, it may match pretty close when it comes.
tomcatt51
Member
+1 You have to remove the surface texture the sandblasted finish has then play with finer grit sandpaper or crocus cloth or scotch brite pads and maybe a metal polish 'til you get a finish that matches the frame.
Go slow and put the screw in to check how it matches. Too much polishing will make the screw look "wrong" as easily as not enough.
You might want to see if S&W will repair the divot in the yoke button. I have seen the divot deepen to a point where the yoke and cylinder will fall out when open, and not held in. It only seems to happen with the new style yoke screws.
OP
ANGST
Member
tomcatt51
Member
What they would do is install another yoke. They don't "fix" things, they replace parts.
Can you feel a "glitch" from the yoke screw plunger hitting the divot as you open and close the yoke? Is the divot in a spot that matters?
OP
ANGST
Member
Nope, can't tell it's there at all .
