Police Trade-in 640s at Centerfire

Alright, a pic of my 640 'Internet Special' (my new name for it, ala' 'Detective Special' :) )

First time in many years that I've screwed a set of new Pachmayr's on anything. Not real pleased with them. Regardless of how I placed them on, or how hard I screwed them together, a noticeable 1/16th in. gap remained on the front of the grip frame area. Even closed the gap with padded clamps overnight, and upon their release, the gap came back.

Phoned Pachmayr (part of Lyman now), and they're sending a replacement pair. We'll see.
I seem to recall the older Pach's for the J-round were two (2) piece grips and this issue did not occur.
I chose the Pach's because I have large hands, and intend on using some magnum ammo in this working gun. They're not huge, and are relatively flat.
Did you remove the frame pin?
After calling Pachmayr they told me to remove it.
They fit better but still had a gap.
Sent mine back.

Ended up with the Tamers but haven't shot it yet.
 
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Here's how I feel about plastic parts in classic handguns (including the mainspring housings on 1911s):

[ame]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XOILKHmZBwc[/ame]

Attention firearms manufacturers!!! As I said above not just in Smiths, but in new Colts and Kimber 1911s. What are they thinking??

Best Regards, Les
 
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I bought one of the Center Fire PD 640's.
What's a mainspring swivel?

Ozark:

See the pictures that I took in post 417 above. It's the little cup that the mainspring seats in, that the mainspring guide passes through. The ones on our guns are plastic. Some of us are replacing them with steel.

Best Regards, Lesl
 
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Thanks for the info.
The only thing I've done to mine is load it up with snap caps and dry fire it.
I should remove the grips and shine it up with Flitz.
But in my old age I'm getting lazy.

Your not alone in being old and to lazy to Flitz it. I've been toying with it since last week and every time I start to get the Flitz out I decide I think I'll just leave it alone. To lazy to get started.;)
 
Ozark:

See the pictures that I took in post 417 above. It's the little cup that the mainspring seats in, that the mainspring guide passes through. The ones on our guns are plastic. Some of us are replacing them with steel.

Best Regards, Lesl

Thanks. I did look at that post and if I decide to replace them (also have a 686) I'll leave it to my gunsmith.
Hate to "fix" things and then pay more to a expert to fix my fix.
 
I have put snap caps in it and have been dry firing it a bunch. The trigger has IMO gotten lighter or I have just gotten more familiar with it. Anyway I am really liking the trigger. I can easily control trigger to the drop point then squeeze it off. The cylinder has just now developed a turn line. My gun couldn't have been shot but very little if any.
As far as the finish I just keep looking at the SS with enjoyment. I never cared for the bead blasted dull look. That is the one thing I would have different about my 627-5 finish. I would prefer the glossy SS look.
I really believe this gun will be my favorite.
 
My apologies to qballwill for the liberties I took with his post. I deleted several of his photos to emphasize the contrast between before and after. Original post is I think on page three of this thread. I very much admire the rehab on his 640-1, and think that the addition of the new stocks made a really professional touch to a great refinishing effort


Just some random thoughts.

Best Regards, Les
No apology necessary, I take it as a compliment.
 
I ordered a bunch of steel mainspring swivels too, came today.

When I have the spring off the shaft I usually stone the edges, there always seems to be a bunch of scalloping, figure the spring may be dragging in spots.

If you look at les b.'s second pic, you can see how the spring snakes on the shaft.

When you take it apart, put the paper clip back in from the same side. The hammer end of the shaft has worn in on the hammer, if you flip it you get to break it in again.

Not sure if this stuff actually contributes to a smoother trigger, but it makes me feel better.
 
I had a chance to take mine apart yesterday. Inside was pretty cruddy and fairly dry. Couple shallow scratches here and there. The cylinder notches are marred up a bit on each edge. The side plate screws are also butchered a bit. I ended up breaking it down and cleaning it entirely. Any tips on what to lube and what to use for lube? I did some searching but found conflicting tips.


Other than that I ordered some speed loaders and snaps caps. I'm currently looking for an IWB kydex holster. Most of what I'm finding is for the .38 J-Frames. I understand the longer under lug is the problem.

 
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I ordered a bunch of steel mainspring swivels too, came today.

When I have the spring off the shaft I usually stone the edges, there always seems to be a bunch of scalloping, figure the spring may be dragging in spots.

If you look at les b.'s second pic, you can see how the spring snakes on the shaft.

When you take it apart, put the paper clip back in from the same side. The hammer end of the shaft has worn in on the hammer, if you flip it you get to break it in again.

Not sure if this stuff actually contributes to a smoother trigger, but it makes me feel better.

Jimmy:

Thanks for the tip!! I just replaced the other two swivels on my two remaining modern centennial style Smiths, and paid particular attention to the edges of the shaft...I could notice considerable roughness on the "back" sides of these small parts. I went back and checked the two that I had already retrofitted with the steel swivels. In each case, the smooth side was up, or facing the right side of the gun. I don't know if this is something that is always this way as a part of the factory assembly process, but at least on my four examples I won't have to worry about getting them reversed, as they were all installed in the same way.

I went ahead and stoned the rough edges of the rear surface of the shafts, for as you pointed out, even this miniscule ammount of roughness could contribute to grittiness and resistance in the double action trigger pull. Very small amount of money and time are required to make these improvements, so why not?

Here is a group shot of all four of my "modern" Centennials, all now have the steel swivel installed, and the stoning done to the mainspring guide rod.



Thanks again to Jimmy for this tip, and to serger for the initial tip on the steel replacement swivels.

Best Regards, Les
 
640 at Centerifire

They'v been out of them for a while, but when I walked
Into their store yesterday, one in the case. Guy behind the counter said it was the absolute worst of them all, has "road rash". He was not lying, rough in the right side with a lot of dried lube. It did come home with me, took me a while to get it cleaned up and it's much better. Although not as nice as the first one I bought, but did get it for a few less dollars. The wife and I shot the other one for the first time today and it shot very well, although my wife has claim d it for her carry gun. Good thing I bought the second one.

Very nice guns for the money.
 
One more thanks to John for a great thread and for sharing info on this great deal from Centerfire! I did the best I could with the finish, added Wilson Combat springs, a metal hammer spring retainer, Hogue Tamer grips, and an XS sight. Not bad!!!!

Thanks guys!!!
Dave:D
 

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One more thanks to John for a great thread and for sharing info on this great deal from Centerfire! I did the best I could with the finish, added Wilson Combat springs, a metal hammer spring retainer, Hogue Tamer grips, and an XS sight. Not bad!!!!

Thanks guys!!!
Dave:D
Looks really good

The grips on mine are worn almost slick. Are the Hogue Tamers any more compact (thinner/shorter) than the Uncle Mike"s?
The UMs are a little to fat for me, and a little shorter would be nice.:D
 
The Tamers only stick below the actual grip frame 5/8", just enough for the pinky. I believe they are a tad wider than the UM, but not bad at all. If you want small and quality, I suggest the Hogue Bantams. I have a set on a 38 but wanted something with a bit more girth for magnums on this gun.
 
The Tamers only stick below the actual grip frame 5/8", just enough for the pinky. I believe they are a tad wider than the UM, but not bad at all. If you want small and quality, I suggest the Hogue Bantams. I have a set on a 38 but wanted something with a bit more girth for magnums on this gun.

Thanks for the info. I'll have to measure the UM to see how far past the frame they hang.The Tamers look more compact, but it's hard to tell in pix. I haven't been able to find one locally.

As to the Bantam's, I'm not a fan of a two finger grip.
 
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