Possible R8 issue?

[BCWood64]

Hey guys I've been shooting a R8 a tad and I want to know if this issue I'm having with the pistols is either being caused by me or something actually is wrong with it. It seems that sometimes on a double action pull, the cylinder will advance but the hammer will not drop. I have to usually totally remove my finger from the trigger so the hammer fully resets. Is that normal? My friend Bill who owns a 629, and numerous Colt's was doing the same thing with it. I don't know if its me just being use to Semi-Autos, but my Model 15-3 does not do it. Just curious, thanks!

 

[dwever]

If I understand what you're saying then it is not normal at all. The trigger should not be able to get all the way to the trigger stop without the hammer falling.

However, if what you're talking about is 'staging' then that is normal.

Again, though, pull the trigger all the way to the trigger-stop. If the hammer ever does not fall then there is a problem.

 

[BCWood64]

I guess lets say I take a shot in DA, let go and take another shot. The trigger makes it all the way back, cylinder advances to the next round but the hammer does not fall. So the round does not fire, since the hammer didn't drop, nothing on the primer.

 

[Ashlander]

If you are shooting too rapidly in double-action, you may not be letting the trigger reset all the way out (kind of like short-shucking a pump shotgun). Another possible factor - I am not sure if the R8 has the normal factory rebound spring, but I suspect the Performance Shop (excuse me if I have the name wrong) might have put in a reduced power rebound spring to lighten the trigger pull a bit. If so, it is all the more important that you consciously let the trigger all the way out before pulling again in double action (because there is less power in the spring which is supposed to help get that done).

 

[HOUSTON RICK]

I have not noticed that problem, but I do not shoot rapidly.

 

[jaymoore]

I'm with Ashlander. Usual cause is not letting the trigger all the way forward. Not a common drama, and may be eliminated by something as simple as a change in grip. But since two of y'all are experiencing it, I think it's either a weak return spring or something is interfering with the full return of the trigger. Generally not hard to diagnose nor eliminate if you are familiar with the innards of your revolver.

 

[kaaskop49]

Difficult to diagnose an issue without having the gun in hand. Why not bring it to a competent gunsmith and have that person take a look at it? Your gun is an expensive, quality model: it's worth a trip to the 'smith for a diagnosis.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

 

[BCWood64]

I don't really have any local gunsmiths that are good with revolvers. You guys think I should call Smith?

 

[kaaskop49]

I don't really have any local gunsmiths that are good with revolvers. You guys think I should call Smith?

No revolver smiths, huh? I guess things have changed on Long Island since I moved from NY. Give Smith a jingle, nothing to lose. As I said above, it's a quality gun; it's deserves proper care. Best wishes.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

 

[TAC]

I don't really have any local gunsmiths that are good with revolvers. You guys think I should call Smith?

I'm beginning to wonder if the 'Performance Center' is any good with revolvers?

I bought an TRR8 new, when they were first introduced. I paid $1,400.00 for it. The trigger, both SA, and especially DA, was horrible! I pulled the side plate, and it looked like a gravel truck drove through it. It wasn't just burnt powder residue either. It was hard, sharp grit, like would come off of emery cloth! Maybe that's how they smooth them out!

 

[dwever]

I'm beginning to wonder if the 'Performance Center' is any good with revolvers?

I bought an TRR8 new, when they were first introduced. I paid $1,400.00 for it. The trigger, both SA, and especially DA, was horrible! I pulled the side plate, and it looked like a gravel truck drove through it. It wasn't just burnt powder residue either. It was hard, sharp grit, like would come off of emery cloth! Maybe that's how they smooth them out!

Someone almost always jumps in and makes that kind of comment when someone posts an issue.

The TRR8 is as noted a quality revolver. Both of mine (TRR8 & M&P R8), along with Performance Center 627's, a 629, 586 L-Comp, and a 686+ have been excellent out of the box. If you're allowing the trigger stroke to cycle fully and this is happening give S&W a call.

 

[Nightowl]

It sounds as if the trigger is not resetting far enough forward to pick up the sear. As stated it could be a weak trigger return spring, a burr somewhere interfering with the return or a sear that is not correctly installed.

I would call Smith and they will send you a FedEx mailing label. You can pack it according to their instructions, run it into a FedEx hub and they will put it in a box and send it off. You will have it back pretty quickly, but they will be taking a holiday break soon, so you might want to wait until January if you can't live without it for awhile.

 

[BCWood64]

Thanks guys, I'm gonna take the side plate off and see if there is any dirt or grit in there. I did buy it used and the previous owner said he only put 500 rounds in it but who knows right?

 

[scooter123]

I suspect that your DA Sear is either lacking a small critical chamfer or the chamfer is too small to allow a reliable reset. BTW, this is one of the final "fitting" steps during assembly of the lockwork and that chamfer is file fit by hand. It's about a 2-3 minute task for someone who knows how to do this but unfortunately today finding that someone is not easy. What I would suggest is that you purchase the Kuhnhausen S&W shop manual and read the section for fitting a replacement DA Sear VERY VERY carefully. Take it in baby steps and stop as soon as you get a reliable reset.

BTW, I learned about this when I decided to replace the flash chromed hammer and trigger in my 625 JM for a blued set with a smooth trigger. Put the new parts in my 625 and it did the EXACT same thing as your revolver. Fortunately I already had the Kuhnhausen Manual so it was just a matter of reading the instructions carefully. My 625 now works perfectly.

Had a bit of a "Blonde Moment" there because I'm a died in the wool do it yourselfer. If you don't want to fool with this problem then use the Lifetime Warranty on your R8 and let S&W repair it.

 

[Goblin]

Just to clarify, when you pull the trigger all the way back, is 1) the hammer coming back to fill cock but not releasing? Or 2) does pulling the trigger rotate the cylinder and the hammer never lifts off it's resting place in the down position?

 

[Apples]

...........

Just to clarify, when you pull the trigger all the way back, is 1) the hammer coming back to fill cock but not releasing?

BCWood64

I guess lets say I take a shot in DA, let go and take another shot. The trigger makes it all the way back, cylinder advances to the next round but the hammer does not fall. So the round does not fire, since the hammer didn't drop, nothing on the primer.

 

[BCWood64]

Don't mind my breathing didn't realize I was that loud but here is a video of whats going on.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQpS3mu9GQs[/ame]

 

[davetnitro]

send it in to the mothership

 

[kaaskop49]

I could very well be wrong in this instance, but this has happened on 2 revolvers when the sideplate screws were not properly tightened or had worked loose. Tightening the screws correctly (not overly tight) solved the problem. Worth a try?

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

 

[Protocall_Design]

Either you are not letting the trigger all the way forward or the sear on the hammer needs a little fitting. It almost has to be one of those. Fitting the sear is a 10 minute deal for a (good) revo smith. There is nothing inherently wrong with the gun.

After watching again, I'm pretty sure it's the gun, not you.