Pre-10 SPC CTG

[CougarKiller]

This found it's way into my buddies LGS on trade so I grabbed it super cheap ... I love it! Timing and lock up and nice .. fair amount patina .. Think it's a 1947


Good find at under $300 ?

 

[Arik]

Oooo....a fitz!

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[CougarKiller]

....................... fitz??

 

[steelslaver]

Nickname for a revover with the trigger guard chopped like that.

 

[gmborkovic]

There would have been no hesitation on my part. Just one question, the strain screw looks wonky? Whats the story ?

 

[CougarKiller]

Not sure on that one .. It that the screw on the front of the grip?

 

[linde]

. . . Think it's a 1947 . . . Good find at under $300 ?

It looks to be an early post-war M&P but the serial number from the butt will help us verify the date . . . neat at under $300 especially since the circa 20s grips are worth $50+.

Be careful with that "Fitzed" trigger guard when holstering . . . here's a previous thread that offers a wide range of opinions on the Fitzgerald modification
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-re...up-custom-model-10-snubby.html?highlight=fitz

The strain screw (on front of grip frame) appears to be backed (often done to lighten the trigger pull) but should remain tight.

Enjoy!

Russ

 

[JP@AK]

Yes. A "Fitzified" 2" M&P from 1948 or earlier. It has also been refinished in nickel and wears stocks from the 1920-29 period. Still a good buy at $300.

Please post the serial number. I suspect it starts with the letter S.

And snug up that strain screw!

JP

 

[CougarKiller]

It does start with S XXXXXXX ... I don't have it on me so I will have to grab it when I get home. I did a little bit of research to come up with the 1947 guess ...

So that strain screw will effect trigger pull?

 

[gmborkovic]

Screw affects trigger pull. Pull the grips off and make sure there is no shim behind the screw where it makes contact with the main spring. Gently remove the screw and clean the screw and the frame. Now, replace and make sure the spring is perfectly centered. Tighten the screw. Pls use a proper fit driver. No buggers here. It should seat flush with the frame. Best

 

[DWalt]

I suspect it has also been refinished. As you have already purchased it, it must have been worth $300 to you.

 

[Lee's Landing Billy]

This gun is UNSAFE, UGLY, wrong finish, wrong grips, everything wrong. Since I am your Pal, I will gleefully give you your money back!!!! Am I a great guy or what? PM me with where to send FFL and money!!! Don't keep this junker. Send it to your Forum Pal!!

 

[jsfricks]

Just tighten the screw until it's snug. Some people back it out like that for a lighter trigger pull but it can cause light primer strikes. It's not the correct way to do a trigger job, so just tighten it up with a correct fitting screwdriver. Neat little gun!

 

[CougarKiller]

thanks everyone! I will get that screw dialed in tonight

 

[Jaymo]

Just tighten the screw until it's snug. Some people back it out like that for a lighter trigger pull but it can cause light primer strikes. It's not the correct way to do a trigger job, so just tighten it up with a correct fitting screwdriver. Neat little gun!

It can also cause the gun to be impossible to cock.
That's how I got my pre-Victory so cheap.

 

[chief38]

Jaymo,

While you are correct that many back the Strain Screw out to "lighten" up the Trigger, it is not the correct way to go. As it would have shipped from the Factory, the Strain Screw would have been fully tightened. If it were impossible to cock SA, then it wold not have left the Factory.

Over the years many a Strain Screw have been replaced with incorrect ones causing what you call "impossible to cock" syndrome. Those SHOULD be replaced with correct ones and if one wants to slightly reduce pull, a Strain Screw must be slightly shortened and then fully tightened again rather than left loose or backed out.

While jsfricks is correct about not the correct way to do a trigger job, sometimes a very slight shortening of the Strain Screw does help - with emphases on slight.

As an aside, I have noticed over 40 years that NOT ALL Strain Screw replacements sold from Brownells, Midway, etc. are all the same. I have seen and have some examples of not only different lengths, but different configurations. I've even received slightly different ones directly from the Factory over the years and that is WHY a REPLACEMENT Strain Screw might need to be properly sized for proper function. I would bet that even S&W has purchased their screws from many different vendors throughout the years creating variations.

 

[CougarKiller]

Screw all the way in now .. action is better than ever, took the spongy feel out of it and the trigger is super crisp, almost too good to be factory

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[CougarKiller]

Heres the SN .. was I right on it being a 47?

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[JP@AK]

Heres the SN .. was I right on it being a 47?

Possible, but more likely November, 1946. I show numbers less than 70 digits lower and less than 30 digits higher that shipped that month. There are others nearby that also shipped in November and some just lower that shipped in October.

 

[JP@AK]

BTW this serial number falls into the range of a large batch of 2" square butt revolvers, so I think you can be pretty confident that it left the factory as a 2" revolver. Check to see if the serial number on the bottom of the barrel matches the one on the butt. I suspect it will.

 

[CougarKiller]

Yep .. they match

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