I just committed to buy what I believe is a pre-36 in nickel. This one is in good but not great condition. The nickel just has some hazing from laying on its' side but the revolver locks up good and tight and I don't think it's been used alot. Would the pre-36 have a pinned barrel?
Pre 36 Question
- Thread starter BigG-n-Tn
- Start date
diamonback68
US Veteran
Pinned barrel, most certainly!
OP
BigG-n-Tn
Member
I thought so. The lack of a model number throws me off. I feel like I'm getting a fair deal. I wish I had pics. Another thing, it does not have the "N" on the cylinder for the nickel. I'm really starting to believe that every S&W nickel gun did not necessarily get all of the marks that folks sometimes expect. Just based on my description, what is a good ballpark value??
diamonback68
US Veteran
That is sometimes true, they did miss some markings, usually the cylinder. Remove the grips and see if there is an N stamp on the left side of the grip frame, that one is usually there.
"Good but not great" is a tough condition to evaluate. If it a pre-36, factory nickel and mechanically in very good shape, I would put it at $300 + -.
OP
BigG-n-Tn
Member
I think it will polish up pretty well. I'm just being conservative. I'll post pics later once I get my hands on it. The nickel on one side of the cylinder is just hazy from laying on that side. I'll have ~$350 in it when it's all said and done and I'm going to shoot it.
diamonback68
US Veteran
OP
BigG-n-Tn
Member
Here are the pics. The pistol actually looks good but the pics make it look sort of crappy. I need some help determining when it was born too. I've never posted SN#s out in the open thread but I'll PM it to whomever thinks they can help me.
What's y'alls opinion of Flitz to get rid of some of the haziness? Alright for nickel?
What's y'alls opinion of Flitz to get rid of some of the haziness? Alright for nickel?
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ar15ed
Member
i think you did fine. flitz, then some ren wax will make it look much better. just post the first 4 or 5 digits of your s.n., and put XXXs for the last few, and someone can get close to your date.
here's a pic of the "N" on the grip frame.
here's a pic of the "N" on the grip frame.
TACC1
US Veteran
Well, there you go, looks like another winner, to me.
Glad you got it! TACC1
Glad you got it! TACC1
OP
BigG-n-Tn
Member
Ended up with less in it than I thought at first too.
Looks like 1956.
OP
BigG-n-Tn
Member
Great! and a good year to boot. Thanks!
JSR III
SWCA Member Absent Comrade
If the 1956 date is correct, then you have a Chief Special from probably the last year of production prior to the Govment requiring S&W to put model numbers on their guns. We could call it a pre 36 pre Govment model...
OP
BigG-n-Tn
Member
JSR, You are a mind freak! LOL. I was thinking the same thing and started writing to pose that question but didn't! LOLIf the 1956 date is correct, then you have a Chief Special from probably the last year of production prior to the Govment requiring S&W to put model numbers on their guns. We could call it a pre 36 pre Govment model...
It is tight -as new- and probably spent most of its' life on the ready. I feel "close" to it. I'm sure that sounds corny but, oh well. I'll just say that I'm really diggin' on it
JSR III
SWCA Member Absent Comrade
I hear what you are saying. To me the model 10 and the model 36 were and always will be the working dogs of S&W. I own several of each. They are like hamsters, they multiply over night.
