Preferred cleaners and lubricators

spearcrow: "I will say that I have thought about trying the M-Pro 7 cleaner, but haven't bought any yet..."

I actually picked up some of the oil last week from my local "Made in China" distributor, and it's good stuff in my opinion. I am getting the cleaner as well, both for $20 and enough to last me at least a year.
 
I clean my revolvers and pistols with Hoppe's, lube the latter with Slip 2000 EWL and Slip 2000 grease on the slide rails. My ARs I clean with BreakFree CLP, the Slip grease on the BCG races and lots of EWL on the bolt assembly.
 
I use CLP on all of my weapons and i think its one of the best out there..Rusty
 
I actually picked up some of the oil last week from my local "Made in China" distributor, and it's good stuff in my opinion. I am getting the cleaner as well, both for $20 and enough to last me at least a year.

Glad you had good luck with it! Like I said, I've had good luck with the Weaponshield clp, but I feel like I waste too much "cleaning" for the amount I get, and it's not cheap... relatively speaking. I'd like to get a big spray bottle of the m-pro 7 to clean with, then use my WS to lube and protect.

Also didn't mention that I've got a few special gals in the safe that get the Renaissance treatment. It's really fantastic stuff, and it really lasts, but just too expensive to put on em all!
 
What cleaners/lubes have you tried, which ones are you most/least satisfied with and why?

Upon firing I tried CLP to clean the barrel, slide, and surrounding areas and then Lubricated with the Outer's oil that came with a kit. No complaints here, but I'm very interested to see if anyone has used a 0W-20, 0W-30, plain 0W or any other viscosity full synthetic motor oils versus oils that are labeled specifically for pistols and what your experience has been.

Hoppes #9 to clean and weapon shield oil and grease to lube.
 
I always use hoppies number 9, but I have been looking and trying everything on used guns. Lots of bargains on the used gun market but, the crud left on these guns can be a challenge. The lead, copper and hard carbon just won't come off without scraping with one form of brass or another. I'm getting quite an assortment of cleaners and none have impressed me. The foul out two gets the metal but the don't make it any longer and the carbon isn't touched. Lewis lead remover works, my home made scaper for smith and Wesson 64 barrel muzzle works (it's a two part barrel with a long recess at the muzzle). Wrapping copper wool on a bronze brush helps. Going to try winter green oil, it's a carbon solven I just read about on the net.
 
I am a big fan of M-PRO 7 cleaner which is non toxin and odor free, along with their non toxin Gun Oil LPX. The LPX replaces CLP.

I'm with Jaysq....I was using Frog Lube for all my firearms but.....have found it is a great lube and protector but not so hot as a cleaner.

Since you can't mix FL with other cleaners I decided to totally swith to the M-Pro 7 line of cleaners and oils. The cleaner is awesome for dissolving carbon and the LPX doesn't run all over the place.
 
Have used Hoppe's, Rem oil, K Grease, and Otis with good results. Am now using Mil-Comm TW25 on rails, and Mil-Comm MC2500 on everything else. Seems to be excellent.

For cleaners have used Hoppe's, Barns CR10, Otis and Hornady One Shot. Still using Hoppe's and One Shot.

Use the the same Mil-Comm , great stuff. I use Hoppe's to loosen the debris and use Gun Scrubber to blast away. Use TW25 on the rails and MC2500 per weapon specs.
 
Here's my own personal observations with Lube's I've used;

Frog Lube - Works okay. Didn't like the pain in applying it with having to heat the gun etc. I also found it's easy to over lube the gun with this stuff. Doesn't seem to work well in cold temps. Great minty smell.

Ballistol - Very easy to apply. Better cleaner than lubricant, IMO. Couldn't stand the smell. It's a great household item though. I've used it for a lot of things other than firearms.

Breakfree CLP - Works okay but didn't like the fact it's not non-toxic.

SLIP 2000 EWL - Just ordered a bottle… :)
 
I've used/checked out a LOT of lubricants over the years. There are some great lubes at great (Read: EXPENSIVE) cost out there. I need a high volume of good lube cheap (At least 3 quarts in reserve). I've tried fully synthetic motor oils(Internal combustion engine additives that are unwanted), auto trans fluid (More additives, plus the smell), and other concoctions. I want a PTFE (Teflon) lube that has great film strength, good adhesion for a liquid, and performance over a wide temp range.
Here is what I've come up with:

9 ozs. of Mobil1- 75W90 full synthetic rear end lube mixed with 7 ozs. LSA Mil/spec semi fluid lubricant.
It has great flowing properties, film strength, lubricity, and it flows at -5degrees F (The lowest my freezer will go). There is VERY little separation over long periods of time. Most PTFE products separate out in a very short time.
I have used this concoction for several years across a broad spectrum of guns- revolvers, metal automatics, composite autos, bolt guns, Garands, M1As, and the AR15 series.

For grease I use:
8 ozs. Mobil1 full synthetic gear grease (The red stuff) mixed with 7 ozs. of the same LSA PTFE semi fluid. This makes a light grease that can be used on all sliding parts. It has a great drop temp and adhesive properties.
Any opinions? Anyone want to try it?
_______________________
Boxers or briefs? At my age, Depends.
 
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Cleaning = Hoppes, Boretech, and/or Ballistol

Lubrication = Mobil 1 5W-30W synthetic. I have used most of the gun specific products out there, and found Mobil 1 hands down the best. I think it's safe to say the car industry has spent far more money, research and development around lubricants to protect the seriously hostile, mechanical environment created by a high RPM engines...that run for hours....than the firearms industry. While some of the gun specific products are very good, synthetic oil is better.....and much cheaper. A slide action auto is child's play by comparison.

Outside - Ballistol. Great for metal protection, does not harm wood or leather (slings)...as close to the 'perfect all around product' out there. Nothing chaps me more than some cleaner stripping/damaging the wood and finish of my gun.
 
Ballistol here...the stuff rocks (also echo the sentiments that wives hate the smell...mine does, but I kinda like it. Reminds me of my dad's workshop smell growing up). Cleans and lubes very well. I do use Hoppe's after all is cleaned i.e. drop on the trigger and run a smidge through the bore. So listen to me...I've been shooting well over a year...ha! What do these folks know that have been shooting 20, 30, 40 and even 50 plus years know? wink wink. Lots of good insight here...listen to the voices of experience (not this n00b) and then find what works for you.
 
I use mil-comm produtcts on all my hand guns TW25 and MC2500 and find it works really great .. I use Mobile Syn.5/30 on my XCR-M and run the bolt assembly wet ,never had a problem with it and its my best combat rifle.
 
For this new shooter, thanks all for a lot of good ideas.

Common thread here seems to be, doesn't appear to matter a whole lot what you use, as long as you use something. My dad (WWII Vet) taught me to take care of my equipment if I wanted it to take care of me.

I've settled on Froglube (CLP + solvent), for cleaning, plus Hoppe's oil for lube. I've been following the manufacturer's instructions for my pistol (M&P FS 9mm #209301) and seems to be working so far.
 
Anybody ever read the MSDS sheets on these automotive lubricants?

There's no way I'd drench my gun it it and then get it all over my hands and face through random contact on a repeated basis. I just don't see the benefit of using automotive fluids and getting some pretty harsh stuff all over myself.

Ballistol's MSDS sheet looks like something I'm pretty comfortable using and coming in repeated contact with. I've been using it several years on all my stuff and really like it.


Not telling anyone they're wrong. Just that I'd prefer to not come in contact with automotive lubricants more than I have to.

YMMV.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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^^^ True for me. I always treated motor oil, old or new, as a carcinogen. I would not tell anyone else who uses it for firearms anything, if it works for them.
 
I use eezox for its rust protection on all metal surfaces. I use a dab of tetra grease or oil on the wear point according to the S&W owners manual.
 
I love rem-oil, however good old military clp works great as well.

One thing people use WAY to much of is oil to clean or lubricate their weapon. Either cleaning or lubricating it shouldn't take more than a couple of drops. Especially with a good oil rag.
 
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