Problem ejecting brass from 642

[mltndw3]

I've had my 642 for over a month and have never had an issue with it. Today I fired my first 5 rounds and went to eject the brass and the ejector wouldn't move. I pulled 4 of the casings out manually with no problem, but the last one wouldn't move until I pried it out. I examined it and saw no bulging but did see what looked like a very thin black scorch mark on one side. I fired another 20 rounds with no problems. Any idea what might have caused this malfunction?

 

[Jim1392]

Hand loads, factory ammo?

 

[mltndw3]

Hand loads, factory ammo?

Freedom Munitions reloads. I've been using this ammo for months and never had a problem before.

 

[klausinak]

did see what looked like a very thin black scorch mark on one side.

Sounds like it may have been a split case, run your thumbnail over it. Sticky extraction generally means over pressure. A split case could have the same effect.

 

[326MOD10]

It could have been a split case causing the problem like klausinak advised. I had a similar situation develop but mine was after owning, daily carrying and firing my 642 for 10+ years. It became so that I had to hand pull the spent casings out because they would eject about a 1/8 of an inch and then bind up the ejector rod.

I bring this up here because the charging hole involved had always been hard to get positive extraction, 100% of the time, from the time I purchased the weapon. But I attributed this to the short ejector rod and my lack of knowledge. Sometimes it would be fine and others it would not.

At first I believed it could be an issue of the cylinder or internals having some residue built up that might be causing the problem. I took it to a friend and he pulled the entire weapon apart and did a very thorough cleaning. When I received it back it was clean enough to eat off of! But that did not fix the problem.

I took it to a local machinist and he was able to see a slight bulge that had developed over time in one of the charging holes. I had looked and looked and could not see it until he eyeballed it and pointed it out. Then it was as plain as day. Ended up buying a new cylinder and having it replaced. It is as good as new now and back in the rotation.

If it is not the casing and it continues to drag or be difficult you might consider sending it back to have it checked.

Good luck.

 

[mltndw3]

Excellent advice as usual. I ran my finger over the marking and didn't feel anything. It may have been hairline and I missed it. I didn't use my fingernail which would have discovered it--lesson learned. I've never seen a marking like that so it stands to reason that it may have been cracked. If it happens again, I will contact both S&W and Freedom Munitions. Thanks again!

 

[MichiganScott]

Black scorch marks are normal and occur because the case lies in the bottom of the chamber. When fired, a certain amount of gas and fouling escape the case before it obturates.

Sticky cases happen. It can be as simple as a soft case from the manufacturer or one charge hole may have just a bit of fouling left that you missed during the last cleaning. Don't worry about it unless it continues, and then clean the gun well before considering sending it back in.

 

[M3Stuart]

+1 on all these comments.

I have a 642 and sticky extraction is NOT normal.

Black scorch marks are VERY normal.

Try different ammo. If the problem persists, and it were mine, I'd send it back to S&W.

FWIW: I shoot 99% reloads in my 642. These are midrange target loads, not +P. Other than a little leading (depending on the powder and lead bullet combo) I've not ever had a sticky extraction issue with mine.

 

[mltndw3]

I clean the guns after each use but I guess I might have left some Break Free residue in one of the cylinders. I run patches until they are clean but it is a possibility. I don't use +P so I know it's not that. We shoot each week so I'll run some more rounds through it next week and see what happens and will keep the casing and take a picture. After the incident, I shot another 20 rounds with no problems. Here is another data point that I failed to mention, it was a steel casing and not brass. I got a box of 50 with mixed steel and brass. I have read that steel isn't meant to be reloaded (along with other comments that it is all of the time) and wonder it that might have contributed to the problem. Thanks again.

 

[VictorLouis]

Guarantee you it's what Klaus posted. Your ammo is reloaded (remanufactured), and they are not likely using virgin brass. It's been quite awhile since I've reloaded, but it seems like I used to get round 10 loadings out of .38 brass before the case-mouths would split too far to use the case, or I'd start seeing brass cracked like that.

Even in practice, I try my level best to handle the gun as I would hope to in a fight. THIS load technique is designed to help with ejection possiblities....

037 Massad Ayoob Demonstrates the "Stressfire" reload for the Revolver - YouTube