Problem field stripping

[lthrnck03]

Has anyone ever had a problem field stripping a M&P after polishing the sear and trigger bar?

 

[robkarrob]

Neither of those parts would have anything to due to breakdown, unless the sear is still holding the striker. If you can dry fire the gun, the problem with breakdown is due to something else. Are you sure you didn't bend the trigger bar? If it disassembled OK prior to your polishing, you had to have changed something. I have polished mine, and there were no changes to the take down operation.

Bob

 

[lthrnck03]

Neither of those parts would have anything to due to breakdown, unless the sear is still holding the striker. If you can dry fire the gun, the problem with breakdown is due to something else. Are you sure you didn't bend the trigger bar? If it disassembled OK prior to your polishing, you had to have changed something. I have polished mine, and there were no changes to the take down operation.

Bob

I'm starting to think that than I polished the trigger arm I took more material off than I thought. When I pull the trigger to release the slide it won't unless I push back in the slide ever so slightly. It didn't do that prior to the polishing.

 

[lthrnck03]

Neither of those parts would have anything to due to breakdown, unless the sear is still holding the striker. If you can dry fire the gun, the problem with breakdown is due to something else. Are you sure you didn't bend the trigger bar? If it disassembled OK prior to your polishing, you had to have changed something. I have polished mine, and there were no changes to the take down operation.

Bob

Do you think giving everything a good lubing might help?

 

[lthrnck03]

As robkarrob noted, if you are able to dry fire then the striker is being released from the sear. This should not hang up the slide. I suppose if you polished too much, your sear travel may be enough to release the striker, but not enough to release the slide. Any problem releasing the slide when using the sear deactivation lever, as S&W suggests in the manual?

No, No problems releasing the slide when using the deactivation lever. I think you are correct about the sear travel not being enough to release the slide. Just to cover myself...I think I am going to order a new trigger bar assembly. The trigger also doesn't seem as crisp when dry firing now(or I could just be too critical)

 

[jajo]

Could be a bent trigger bar.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Rastoff]

Just a note, replacing the trigger bar isn't as easy as it looks. At least mine wasn't. The pin that holds it to the trigger is very tight. Mine took some stiff raps with the hammer and punch to get the pin out.

Not trying to discourage you, just a note.

For the record, my slide hangs up some times when I try to remove it by pressing the trigger. I don't know what it's catching on. So, I just use the sear deactivation lever and have no issues.

 

[Tinn-Can]

When I was reshaping my sear I took off too much on the over travel bit and it wouldn't fire until the very back of the travel. I little changing of the loop to engage sooner and it was perfect.

 

[lthrnck03]

When I was reshaping my sear I took off too much on the over travel bit and it wouldn't fire until the very back of the travel. I little changing of the loop to engage sooner and it was perfect.

How did you change the loop of engagement?

 

[Tinn-Can]

Rubber over channel lock pliers and compress the loop forward to backwards to make it stand a bit taller and a bit more to the rear... It took a long time to get it just right...

 

[lthrnck03]

Rubber over channel lock pliers and compress the loop forward to backwards to make it stand a bit taller and a bit more to the rear... It took a long time to get it just right...

On the trigger arm?

 

[lthrnck03]

Rubber over channel lock pliers and compress the loop forward to backwards to make it stand a bit taller and a bit more to the rear... It took a long time to get it just right...

You were spot on! I made just a small adjustment to the loop and its perfect again. I didn't have to pull out the channel locks or anything. All I had to do was bend the loop arm up just a small amount.