Problem Ruger Mark I Dissassembly

ajellydonut

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I failed to pull trigger on my Mark I Ruger, prior to opening rear grip latch for disassembly.... Now latch 1/2 open and won't budge ! Nothing moves... forward or back ! HELP!
 
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Is the mainspring housing all the way in the grip frame? If the hammer is still cocked,that puts enough pressure on the MSH to keep it from coming the rest of the way out,but you should still be able to fire it and take that pressure off of it.If the pressure's off,it's possible the rivet that holds the MSH together at the bottom has walked sideways and is catching on the frame
 
Most PITA gun I've ever disassembled! Reassembly not much better. I just take the grips off and spray the heck out of it with gun cleaner and re-lube! Has worked for me since first time 40+ years ago.
 
You have to hold your tongue just right. You might try holding the gun upside down and shake it a little. Then try closing the lever. If still doesn't work then shake as you try closing the lever. The post probably has come out of the hole causing the problem.
Go online to Ruger website and download the field strip instructions.
I just bought the new Ruger MK IV and really like push a button and the gun is stripped for cleaning. I do still have my Ruger MK II and plan on keeping it.
I like the above post saying remove the grips and spray it down. Good idea. Actually the Ruger MK 1,2 and 3 seldom need the total strip and clean anyway. Mine MK II went 15 years without a total take down and it never had a problem.
 
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If I'm understanding your question, and you started disassembly with the gun still cocked, the only thing I know of is to force it back upward, as hard as you can, against that strong-*** spring, until you get it up far enough you can relatch it.

Then disassemble in the CORRECT order - dropping the hammer first.

I did that once. It ain't fun. I hope I never do it again.
 
The first two or three times they are tighter. I have a pin the same size as the leaver assembly to help line up in the rear hole.
 
It only took 60+ years and four generations to get it right. Ruger builds nice guns, but I never understood how they came up with such an absurd design.
 
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It only took 60+ years and four generations to get it right. Ruger builds nice guns, but I never understood how they came up with such an absurd design.
The "absurd" design made for one of the most robust, accurate and easy to build handguns ever made.

They recently updated it to make it easier to field strip. I wish I could get one.
 
The Ruger MK I/II/III series can be a PITA to reassemble until you understand what's going on inside. Essentially, EVERYTHING revolves around the proper (and known) position of the hammer and it's strut during disassembly and (especially) reassembly. Once you understand ( and can picture) the relation of the hammer to the rest of the internals, it all becomes second nature. ( Honest!)
You tube has several good vids on the topic to get you there.
For the OP, my guess is you need to: a) take pressure off the mainspring (if any exists)b) pull the mag, c) point the muzzle down and pull the trigger in order to get the Hammer and strut forward. (slapping the receiver helps too.) d) Tap the receiver forward to separate.

p.s. Got to handle my first Mk 4 today. Have to say it came apart in a heartbeat! That said, it still relies on the user to do a few things in certain order in order to break it down AND reassembly. Still easier than it's predecessors but not completely foolproof.
 
That video is very nice, but I had to laugh out loud when the guy in the video said you could shoot the Mark II 300 rounds before you have to clean.

I have been shooting mine at every range visit and it has never been taken down for cleaning. I found it so complicated and such a pain that I just vowed never to do it again.

Maybe once a year, I use some CLP and a Q-tip to scrub around the feed ramp, the bolt face and the extractor, but that is it. I have never had a malfunction. Oh, and horror - I run a patch down the barrel from the front (I am careful to not damage the crown and rifling).

This method has worked forever for me, so I see no reason to change. The current Ruger 22 has 30,000 rounds or so downrange in this manner, without any malfunctions.
 
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