Problems with a Lee Crimp Die
- Thread starter MarTay6
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Cdog
Member
I've been using the FCD for magnum loads for many years without issue. I however have not tried coated bullets with one. I couldn't get enough roll crimp on some 300+ grain 44 magnum bullets to reliably keep them in place in a Super Blackhawk load. The Lee FCD worked.
I believe my first move would be to try a standard hard cast or jacketed bullet to see if the results are different.
I believe my first move would be to try a standard hard cast or jacketed bullet to see if the results are different.
Looking at the pics I have a question; are the bullets rubbing or are the cases rubbing? I started reloading 44 Magnums with Lee dies in about '87, pre FCD. No problems. I tried a Lee FCD for handguns and ran into a major leading problem. Easy fix was to drive out the sizing ring, but soon replaced the FCD with a "normal" roll crimp die and shortly thereafter got a Redding Profile Crimp die. (my FCD now resides in a landfill somewhere in So. Oregon)...
I solved my lee crimp die problem years ago. I threw it in the trash and bought a set of Redding dies. FYI I crimp after seating, not while.
Funflyer
Member
The problem with Lee products is their quality is all over the map and some dies need to be opened up a bit. Some of my FCDies were just fine and wouldn't size when using cast bullets up to .0015" over jacketed bullets, however several were slightly under and would just kiss the brass with standard bullets. Those I opened up so I could use cast/coated bullets up to .002" over standard size. The trick to opening up the sizer ring is to use diamond grit polishing compound as carbide is harder than Chinese arithmetic. It helps to chuck them in a lathe also. I recall my 44 FCD did the same as the OP's and swage even standard size bullets.
I've never used a Lee FCD. Come to think of it, don't think I've ever needed such a thing. Well, there was a Bar-Sto 1911 barrel, but that chamber was cut to absolute minimum specs, not the fault of the ammo, but a finish reamer fixed that issue.
Or the same length. I have had new Starline brass vary considerably in length.
I trim them all to a standard length for which I have a special case with which to adjust the trimmer.
Different length brass really screws with the crimp.
Only use I have for the FCD is with the "bulge buster" setup I use for 10mm fired in my Glock.
STORMINORMAN
Member
I routinely use the LEE FCDs for all my calibers, both the carbide versions and the collet-style when available. I view (and record) each reloading session with info to refer to in any future repeat and, of course have my favorites.
Different bullets certainly require different crimps: different expansion techniques as well. I personally believe 90% of crimp problems are due to seating and expansion errors. I have collected a bunch of different dies specifically designed for expansion (i.e., the Lyman M-dies, some RCBS, etc.), although for "production" purposes the Hornady design certainly has it over the LEE powder-through version, IF the brass is consistant, IMHO. There are both roll crimp and taper crimp versions for some calibers, BTW. I REALLY like the LEE 357 SIG collet-style die!
Case gauges and the ol' PLUNK TEST also seem to drastically reduce problems at the firing line...?
CHEERS!
Different bullets certainly require different crimps: different expansion techniques as well. I personally believe 90% of crimp problems are due to seating and expansion errors. I have collected a bunch of different dies specifically designed for expansion (i.e., the Lyman M-dies, some RCBS, etc.), although for "production" purposes the Hornady design certainly has it over the LEE powder-through version, IF the brass is consistant, IMHO. There are both roll crimp and taper crimp versions for some calibers, BTW. I REALLY like the LEE 357 SIG collet-style die!
Case gauges and the ol' PLUNK TEST also seem to drastically reduce problems at the firing line...?
CHEERS!
Exactly. No reason NOT to resize new brass & match all your other sized brass.
Besides, you're not going to send your fired brass back to their manufacturer & have them resize them each time, right.
I've found new brass is often several thousandths fatter before I resize it. I like good bullet-case tension on my jacketed bullet magnum revolver loads.
If I want less bullet-case tension I use the appropriate M-style expander die.
.
Some of my Lee pistol FCD dies had carbide rings that were undersized & tried to resize no matter what bullet I used.
On several cartridges (40S&W & 41MAG) I removed the carbide ring because of that. On the other FCDs they've not been a problem.
Initially I was a fan of them but mainly I see no reason for them anymore.
Lee rifle FCDs are a different story.
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typetwelve
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Exactly. No reason NOT to resize new brass & match all your other sized brass.
Besides, you're not going to send your fired brass back to their manufacturer & have them resize them each time, right.
I've found new brass is often several thousandths fatter before I resize it. I like good bullet-case tension on my jacketed bullet magnum revolver loads.
If I want less bullet-case tension I use the appropriate M-style expander die.
.
Some of my Lee pistol FCD dies had carbide rings that were undersized & tried to resize no matter what bullet I used.
On several cartridges (40S&W & 41MAG) I removed the carbide ring because of that. On the other FCDs they've not been a problem.
Initially I was a fan of them but mainly I see no reason for them anymore.
Lee rifle FCDs are a different story.
.
With 44 magnum, my Lee was causing more harm than good with that resizing ring. I ran some tests and found that some 44 brass is .010" thick, some is .011" thick. Couple this to larger lead projectiles or the Zero .430-.431" projectiles I currently run and the Lee was really squeezing the snot out of the loaded round.
It was a terrible combo of using the .011" thick brass and some lead projectiles, the Lee would squeeze that .430" lead projectile down to .428" and I was getting all kinds of leading issues.
Like I said above, I just removed the ring...saw a good youtube video on it, used a socket down into the die and banged it out...wasn't a huge problem.
NJM15
Member
Not the same caliber but ----
I resize most reloads and at least with Lee bullet setting dies you can crimp with it too on my .40s' and .9's You have to get the settings right so you dont over set the bullet.
I usually set my crimp with an empty case then try a bullet into it , if it dont go then it would be a tite enough crimp to seal
I resize most reloads and at least with Lee bullet setting dies you can crimp with it too on my .40s' and .9's You have to get the settings right so you dont over set the bullet.
I usually set my crimp with an empty case then try a bullet into it , if it dont go then it would be a tite enough crimp to seal
Greenjoytj
Member
There has to be some rubbing on the case because the bullet seating die body has the job of reducing the diameter of the case that was stretched open by the expander plug. Also the seater die closes the case mouth flare.
In the short term (while your waiting for a Redding Profile crimp die to arrive) I would try smearing very lightly some Imperial Sizing Wax on the area of the case that is getting excessively rubbed by the seating/ crimping die. The lube will smooth and quiet the crimping operation.
Redding even recommends lightly lubing the case mouth during sizing with carbide dies and while crimping.
Are there any lathe tool marks visible inside the die body?
If there is these will make a grinding sound as the case mouth flare slides across the tool mark bumps.
My LEE pistol crimp dies have the split finger collet inside.
Always size new brass right out of the box or bag (it says so in the reloading manuals) then measure for length and trim long cases to match the average length. I hate culling the too short cases set them aside till you get enough to make a box of shorter cartridges adjust powder charge for these shorter cases.
Ideally all the cases should be the same length.
Primer pocket uniform and flash hole uniform and inside chamfer the flash hole.
These are one time operations so don't skimp on your brass preparations then whine about group size on the targets.
In the short term (while your waiting for a Redding Profile crimp die to arrive) I would try smearing very lightly some Imperial Sizing Wax on the area of the case that is getting excessively rubbed by the seating/ crimping die. The lube will smooth and quiet the crimping operation.
Redding even recommends lightly lubing the case mouth during sizing with carbide dies and while crimping.
Are there any lathe tool marks visible inside the die body?
If there is these will make a grinding sound as the case mouth flare slides across the tool mark bumps.
My LEE pistol crimp dies have the split finger collet inside.
Always size new brass right out of the box or bag (it says so in the reloading manuals) then measure for length and trim long cases to match the average length. I hate culling the too short cases set them aside till you get enough to make a box of shorter cartridges adjust powder charge for these shorter cases.
Ideally all the cases should be the same length.
Primer pocket uniform and flash hole uniform and inside chamfer the flash hole.
These are one time operations so don't skimp on your brass preparations then whine about group size on the targets.
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