I recently bought a S & W 1066 love the gun shots great, put 100 rds of Remington through it and 20 rnds of federal hydo shock no issues. Started reloading star line brass using bulleyes start grs 5.9 up to 6.4. Loaded 20 rnds of each 5.9, 6.0 ,6.1 ect. up to 6.4, every clip had one to four failure to ejected. Reload the same thing using the once fired remington and federal brass (nickle plated) and not one failure to extract. Anyone else having or had problems with star line brass?
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problems with star line brass
- Thread starter grogg
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I found a problem with Star Line brass but it wouldn't cause a FTE.
I purchased 500 10mm rounds from WisconsinCartridge.com which are constructed with Star Line brass. Some of those rounds have the primers mounted above the rim. I thought that WisconsinCartridge.com just didn't seat them all the way down. My Lyman Large Primer Pocket Uniformer (#7810215) told a different story. Apparently some of the Star Line brass primer pockets just didn't have the uniform depth.
I purchased 500 10mm rounds from WisconsinCartridge.com which are constructed with Star Line brass. Some of those rounds have the primers mounted above the rim. I thought that WisconsinCartridge.com just didn't seat them all the way down. My Lyman Large Primer Pocket Uniformer (#7810215) told a different story. Apparently some of the Star Line brass primer pockets just didn't have the uniform depth.
Starline 10mm
Wow, first I have ever heard of this. Starline is only new brass I ever buy,
try to find 10mm in anything else and if you do, check out price difference.
I use it a lot in 10mm and 44 special and have never, I mean never had any issue like you have explained or any other.
I would call them as I would hope they would stand behind their product whether you were first purchaser or not.
Good luck, remember anyone can screw up, even S&W, but they have always fixed their screw ups so I keep buying.
I can not say the same about Sig , which is why I sold all of mine, not because they make bad guns , but because they would not step up when
I had a real problem.
Wow, first I have ever heard of this. Starline is only new brass I ever buy,
try to find 10mm in anything else and if you do, check out price difference.
I use it a lot in 10mm and 44 special and have never, I mean never had any issue like you have explained or any other.
I would call them as I would hope they would stand behind their product whether you were first purchaser or not.
Good luck, remember anyone can screw up, even S&W, but they have always fixed their screw ups so I keep buying.
I can not say the same about Sig , which is why I sold all of mine, not because they make bad guns , but because they would not step up when
I had a real problem.
Titegroups
Member
Failure to eject or extract? I would check the groove where the extractor grips the case and check the extractor for wear. Very unusual problem. Doubt its the brass.
papajohn428
Member
I just bought 500 10mm Starline cases a month ago, primed them with both Federal and Winchester LP primers, and have had NO issues with seating depth, they were very uniform.
I'd contact Starline and ask if they ever had complaints about primer pocket depth issues in older lots of brass.........hard to say how old that stuff is.
I've bought several batches of Starline brass over the years, and have never had any kind of issue with it.
I'd contact Starline and ask if they ever had complaints about primer pocket depth issues in older lots of brass.........hard to say how old that stuff is.
I've bought several batches of Starline brass over the years, and have never had any kind of issue with it.
David LaPell
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I have had problems with Starline brass before. I bought some .41 Magnum ammo from Buffalo Bore once and the occasional one would case the cylinder to tie up in my Ruger Blackhawk. It turns out that it was the same issue with the primers, they were not seating well at all. Personally after looking at some of the problems, I have never really been impressed with starline brass and have gotten just as good results with new Winchester and Remington brass.
First and foremost, I'd suggest cleaning the extractor very carefully, use some aresol gum cutter or something similar to make sure all accumulated crud is removed. If you can, inspect the extractor to make sure the hook is intact. There were several different spring packages over the life of the 1000 series pistols, the last ones were much improved.
If the issues continue, anyone can have an issue with the case forming dies becoming worn or out of adjustment. Mark your troublesome cases and it continues to be an issue, send the stuff back to Starline and/or call them.
I haven't had issues with the Starline 10mm I've bought, at least yet. When I clocked the UMC ball, it ran 1200+ fps from my well used 1006. I tried WW 231 out of curiousity, it runs around 950 fps with depressing uniformity. I prefer a load of 6.7 gr Unique. It's not as uniform, but much more authoritative.
If the issues continue, anyone can have an issue with the case forming dies becoming worn or out of adjustment. Mark your troublesome cases and it continues to be an issue, send the stuff back to Starline and/or call them.
I haven't had issues with the Starline 10mm I've bought, at least yet. When I clocked the UMC ball, it ran 1200+ fps from my well used 1006. I tried WW 231 out of curiousity, it runs around 950 fps with depressing uniformity. I prefer a load of 6.7 gr Unique. It's not as uniform, but much more authoritative.
Shadow1006
Member
Grogg, the Bullseye may have a high impulse short duration causing the ejection problems.
Are the cases staying in the chamber? Is the extractor pulling off of the case rim?
You didn't mention which bullets/weights you were usings for this venture???
You may want to try a slower burn rate powder to see if the FTE go away.
Also, using a Pass-Thru-Sizer will help all the way around with feeding, standard dies just don't reach down far enough to completely re-size the brass.
Good luck getting it solved!
Are the cases staying in the chamber? Is the extractor pulling off of the case rim?
You didn't mention which bullets/weights you were usings for this venture???
You may want to try a slower burn rate powder to see if the FTE go away.
Also, using a Pass-Thru-Sizer will help all the way around with feeding, standard dies just don't reach down far enough to completely re-size the brass.
Good luck getting it solved!
+1 I would try this first. For 10mm Alliant doesn't even list Bullseye as a load in their load booklet and neither does Speer 13. Also make sure your not limp-wristing
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I've never had a problem with their brass and that includes 38 Spec., 357, 44 Mag and 45 ACP. In fact, Starline is the only one that I can feel the primer bottom out in. With Winchester, it's iffy...sometime you can feel the primer seat and other times I have to run a finger over the primer to be sure it's at or below the case rim in 45 ACP.
So who is Wisconsin Cartridge Co.? Sounds like reloaded ammo to me. Looks like a garage operation. Sounds like they are cutting corners. Don't know what is inside, do you? That would be the last purchase they ever got from me.
They are based out of Friendship Wisconsin. There WEB site is, press here. 10mm rounds is very difficult to purchase where I live so I went online and found a bottom basement supplier. I purchased 500 rounds of "this stuff", I was told by the sales representative that the brass was new. He also informed me that the 357 rounds had new cases "for the time being". So, apparently they are or will be selling reloads. Even if they are reloads, that wouldn't or shouldn't change the primer pockets dimensions. Am I wrong to assume that...? BTW, this is the reason I got into reloading.
WARNING: Large Rifle and large Pistol Primers have different pocket depths. Do not use the Large Rifle Uniformer (#7810215) in pistol cases.
I missed reading that warning in the Lyman case prep accessory set. I found on another site this tidbit of information:
I did find a link to SAAMI RIFLE primer & Primer pocket drawing that someone posted. I enlarged it so I could see it. See Pic
If the small pistol, small rifle and large pistol pockets are the same depth then I could have a condition where the primer protrudes out of the rim. Fir instance, if I had primers that were 0.120" thick and placed them into a pocket that was only 0.118" deep, my primers would stick out .002" from the rim. Wow-lau-lau, the Friendship Wisconsin 10mm stuff might just be assembled to specifications after all.
As a safety measure, I placed an order for the Sinclair UN-8003 Primer Pocket Uniformers, Large Pistol (Mfr. Part: SNC480033) at $25. Buy here
I missed reading that warning in the Lyman case prep accessory set. I found on another site this tidbit of information:
Can anyone confirm this information. I tried going to the SAAMI WEB site and could not find the primer and primer seat drawings.
I did find a link to SAAMI RIFLE primer & Primer pocket drawing that someone posted. I enlarged it so I could see it. See Pic
If the small pistol, small rifle and large pistol pockets are the same depth then I could have a condition where the primer protrudes out of the rim. Fir instance, if I had primers that were 0.120" thick and placed them into a pocket that was only 0.118" deep, my primers would stick out .002" from the rim. Wow-lau-lau, the Friendship Wisconsin 10mm stuff might just be assembled to specifications after all.
As a safety measure, I placed an order for the Sinclair UN-8003 Primer Pocket Uniformers, Large Pistol (Mfr. Part: SNC480033) at $25. Buy here
Thanks for the response.the cases are usally half out of the chamber and the extracter seems to pull off, the case is never tight and falls out easy after i eject the clip. The bullet i am using is a 180 gr. winchester jacketed flat nose. I do have some Unique, I will try that next. Bought some break free powder blaster and cleaned the extracter as well as possible without pulling it. It did have a small burr on the point of the extracter cleaned it up with a fine stone (ark). Will continue working it out sounds like the star line brass is fine.
THANKS TO ALL FOR THE ADVICE.
I'm a little confused.
First you show a picture of a loaded round with a protruding primer and state that it came out of a box of purchased ammo. Then a couple posts later you make comments that imply you overlooked some info on case prep which implies you monkeyed around while reloading the fired brass and maybe did something in error but don't give enough info to figure out what you did without a lot of assumptions.
In either case, if large rifle primers were used in place of large pistol primers, they would stick out of the case - provided the pockets were not altered from normal LP depth. I don't think 10mm brass comes with LR sized pockets like 500 S&W does. Correct me if I'm wrong.
The only difference is who is responsible for the error. If it was Wisconsin cartridge, I would have them send a return shipping label for the rest of the batch and either a refund or corrected replacement ammo. If it was you, then I would spend some time reading a good load manual and not the section with the load tables.
First you show a picture of a loaded round with a protruding primer and state that it came out of a box of purchased ammo. Then a couple posts later you make comments that imply you overlooked some info on case prep which implies you monkeyed around while reloading the fired brass and maybe did something in error but don't give enough info to figure out what you did without a lot of assumptions.
In either case, if large rifle primers were used in place of large pistol primers, they would stick out of the case - provided the pockets were not altered from normal LP depth. I don't think 10mm brass comes with LR sized pockets like 500 S&W does. Correct me if I'm wrong.
The only difference is who is responsible for the error. If it was Wisconsin cartridge, I would have them send a return shipping label for the rest of the batch and either a refund or corrected replacement ammo. If it was you, then I would spend some time reading a good load manual and not the section with the load tables.
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Beans
Member
I have used Starline brass for years without any problems.
I have used the .45 Schofield., .45 Colt, .45 ACP, .41 Mag, .44 Mag .38 special, .357 Mag and 9mm. I purchase the brass in 500 rds lots. The .38 Special, the .45 Schofield and the .45 Colt have been loaded uncountable time. this was the brass I was using when I first got started in CAS 20 years ago and was firing over 50,000 rds a year.
I just shot them, tumbled them, reloaded and then repeat.
I am not saying that mistakes cannot happen.
My shooting buddies and I only buy Starline brass and they shoot as much or more then I do. We have slowed down in our old age and only shoot about 20,000 per year now. I know that I have and still using Starline brass that is over 10 years old
All with Starline brass. We buy direct.
Nemo288
Member
I consider Starline premium brass. The inside is tapered to
the point where the bullet base resides giving more strength
to the lower end of the cartridge.
I have used a couple thousand in 44 Special Magnum and Super
Magnum with no problems. In fact I think their tolerances are
tighter than most.
I once got ONE bad example:
Upon contacting Starline they practically begged me to return it
to them and sent me 10 to replace it. Super service.
They told me it looked like this one got caught sideways in the primer
pocket punch.
All my modern load development is with Starline brass. I also like the fact
they offer nickel plated. Try to find that in 44 Special anywhere else.
...Nemo...
the point where the bullet base resides giving more strength
to the lower end of the cartridge.
I have used a couple thousand in 44 Special Magnum and Super
Magnum with no problems. In fact I think their tolerances are
tighter than most.
I once got ONE bad example:
Upon contacting Starline they practically begged me to return it
to them and sent me 10 to replace it. Super service.
They told me it looked like this one got caught sideways in the primer
pocket punch.
All my modern load development is with Starline brass. I also like the fact
they offer nickel plated. Try to find that in 44 Special anywhere else.
...Nemo...
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