max503
Member
My 638 came from the factory looking like someone used vice grips on it.
Proper Way to Unscrew Ejector Rod
- Thread starter kbm6893
- Start date
Same tool as KBM6893 uses...very good tool
Obviously there are many ways to skin a cat so to speak but I found the Gunsmither tool to fit all my needs great. Very well made, has never slipped or marred any of my S&W's. Comes with a small bag of rosin if needed.
Sure came in handy when reaming out my sticky cylinder Model 34 and Model 17 (and a couple for friends too).
I'm basically a tool hound anyway, so another specialty in the tool chest doesn't bother me a bit.
Even comes with clear instructions for those that may not know their left from their right.
Obviously there are many ways to skin a cat so to speak but I found the Gunsmither tool to fit all my needs great. Very well made, has never slipped or marred any of my S&W's. Comes with a small bag of rosin if needed.
Sure came in handy when reaming out my sticky cylinder Model 34 and Model 17 (and a couple for friends too).
I'm basically a tool hound anyway, so another specialty in the tool chest doesn't bother me a bit.
Even comes with clear instructions for those that may not know their left from their right.
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OutWest50
Member
I used the Power Custom tool to remove/tighten extractor rods and have had good results. I have found that on some occasions the extractor rod has slight excess runout after it has been removed and re-tightened. To easily solve that issue I use a Power Custom fixture to eliminate the runout. The fixture is a bit expensive but compared to my "valued" S&W revolvers it is justified (in my mind 
).
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I bought the tool. the rod just spins in it. I don't recommend it.
shil
Member
I've used my Brownell's tool successfully. There are two sizes. Make sure you have the right size.
Nesmith
Member
Just a quick comment: did I simply overlook it or did no one mention that ejector rods with left-hand threads have a shallow annular groove machined just aft of the knurling to identity them as such? I find this identification aid quite helpful.
Can you (or someone) post a picture of this.? Also how to determine if the gun is a newer or older, What date did they change.? I always get confused with right or left, clock or counter??
OutWest50
Member
Here is a photo that illustrates the way to differentiate between the RH and LH rods.
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Excellent! Thank you
As to CW or CCW that is facing the front of the cylinder and rod yes?
CW and CCW
Answer is yes.........hold cylinder your left hand, with rod knurled end facing you. With your right hand grasp the knurled tip of the ejector rod and then just pretend you are holding a normal bolt head in your right hand, and your left hand is holding the "nut".
With bolts and nuts normally threaded for right hand threads, you tighten by turning to the right, hence the old machinists saying: "Righty tighty...lefty loosey"...meaning Clockwise to tighten, Counterclockwise to loosen.
The OPPOSITE is true with left hand threads, meaning (same holding orientation).. turn bolt head Counterclockwise to tighten, turn clockwise to loosen.
Hope this helps.
Answer is yes.........hold cylinder your left hand, with rod knurled end facing you. With your right hand grasp the knurled tip of the ejector rod and then just pretend you are holding a normal bolt head in your right hand, and your left hand is holding the "nut".
With bolts and nuts normally threaded for right hand threads, you tighten by turning to the right, hence the old machinists saying: "Righty tighty...lefty loosey"...meaning Clockwise to tighten, Counterclockwise to loosen.
The OPPOSITE is true with left hand threads, meaning (same holding orientation).. turn bolt head Counterclockwise to tighten, turn clockwise to loosen.
Hope this helps.
Besides the empty cases, don't forget the rosin on the vise-grip jaw's circular cuts to hold the rod. If you want your work to look good, you gotta have the tools; and i doubt i'd try to remove the rod w/o the Brownells vise-grips...
gmarshall99, if the Vise-Grip is slipping on the rod and you cant get the jaws to close tighter, you can try using some thin cardboard- like the thickness of a matchbook used to gap points sprinkle a bit of the powdered rosin that shoulda shipped with the tool on both sides of the paper and cut the paper just long enough to wrap around the rod, close the jaws tight and not have any 'double-thickness' of paper on the rod.
sprinkle a bit of the powdered rosin that shoulda shipped with the tool on both sides of the paper and cut the paper just long enough to wrap around the rod, close the jaws tight and not have any 'double-thickness' of paper on the rod.BillBro
Member
Preferably fired emptys at that to prevent the most amount of rotational movement.
