Quality of the SD9VE?

[S&W Rover]

So I've owned a number of polymer, striker-fired guns -- S&W, FNH, Sig. Looking at my SD9, I cannot see any significant difference in quality of the key parts and the overall build.

The striker, sear, and related parts are quite elegant in the Sig P320, while the analogous parts in the in the SD9, M&P9, FNS-9, and Glock are not so sophisticated. But in the latter guns, they are still reliable and provide reasonably good triggers. [I am putting aside from this computation the longer and somewhat heavy pull of the SD9VE trigger, which I will mitigate with an Apex kit later, plus practice].

So my question is, why buy an expensive striker-fired polymer (plastic) gun, when I can get a SD9VE for $275? Are the barrels, springs, plastics, magazines, etc., better on the more expensive models? My experience with my SD9 is that it has worked every time I've pulled the trigger (which I cannot say about every other pistol I've owned, except the classic P-series Sigs).

This is sort of a rhetorical question, but I am also interested if anyone has any experiences or observations that can pinpoint a quality difference between the SD9VE and the classic $400-650 striker-fired plastic pistols that dominate the market. (I know and appreciate the difference between this range of pistols and the next level down, the Kel-Tec, Highpoint, Jimenez, Diamond, Taurus, etc., type guns). I am working myself up to buying another SD9, and believe I will get a level of quality comparable to the more popular -- and expensive -- quality pistols.

 

[Shorty091261]

Some ask why the SD9VE is so cheap. We fans of this sidearm ask why the others are so expensive. Even the stiff trigger really isn't that bad once it is broken in. I've put over 1k rounds through mine, and the feel is not much different than my k frame double action wheelgun.

 

[Shorty091261]

Oh. I still have yet to experience a malfunction.

 

[Vandalct]

I've put about 500 down range and it goes bang every single time with no hiccups. I chose it over much more expensive M & P models, Springfields, Sig 2022 and P250s because I just didn't see enough of a difference to justify the extra spend. My SD9VE is the best $300 I've spent in a long time.

 

[Dr Denby]

My 3 best shooters are the least retail value guns that I have and that I have shot actually. They are $300-350 that I spent far less on.

The SD40VE, I got for $250 and bought the Apex upgrades for and it changed an ok cheap gun, into a thing of beauty. So smooth, so accurate.

Tisas Zig 1911 .. $300-320 gun, got for about $15 in gas..with polishing all contacts, and professional hammer polish, it is smoother and outshoots any $1500 factory 1911

Walther PPX40, $300 gun, traded for computer work. Such a smooth crisp trigger and action, and so accurate.

I have handguns retail value between about 2k and these 3, and as I said my 3 cheapest guns are my best.

There will always be people with the staunch mindset that more expensive = better, most expensive = best and will have it so ingrained that even when shooting something cheaper and better, will swear it is "garbage" and mean it.

Hey more power to them. It's their money and their right. Me, I couldn't be happier that I have these awesome shooters.

Doc

 

[MOONDAWG]

I liked my first one so much I bought it a stable mate.

I liken them to a "thinking-man's" GLOCK.

A "GREAT" reliable gun at almost 1/2 the cost...

 

[Arik]

The finish is different and cheaper. The rear rails are not part of the frame, again. ..cheaper to manufacture.

I cannot afford to buy and extensively test all guns so I rely on those who can. The other guns you mentioned have a proven track record. Simply saying "it goes bang when I pull the trigger" doesn't work for me. It's too broad of a phrase. How many times? In what time frame? Under what conditions? Did anything need changing? For example, my friend considers one successful trigger pull as a sign of good or bad. So one "bang" is all you need to prove reliability. I don't see it that way and I'm sure most of you don't either. So like I said I buy what has a proven track record. After that comes the price. $275 + how much for the Apex? $39.95 for the trigger enhancement and $20.95 for spring kit. So now it's in the $325 - $350 price range. A NEW Sig 320 is only about a $100 more.

Now. I don't often buy new guns when I can get used. Most of my guns were bought in the $300 - 500 price range. All are Glocks, Sigs and HK. So.....I would rather spend an extra $100 or two for a model/brand that I know has a proven track record vs one that I dont.

So I don't really care "why should I buy Y when X is just a little bit cheaper". Is it proven? Yes! Is it affordable? Yes! That's the begging and end of my buying decision

 

[bigsteve113]

My SW40VE has been great. I have no complaints and I actually really like the DA 'revolverish' trigger. To me they are the unsung heroes of the handgun world.

 

[Dr Denby]

A couple things Arik

I have always been able to find a way to test fire a model of a gun before I buy. I would not spend that money especially a gun I would rely on for defense without doing so.. even if it has cost $10 to test.

The other thing, is that when I have found a gun I think I want, I first have to make sure that it is comfortable to shoot... one factor of which is trigger pull, then a vast selection of other factors. It could be the most reliable but if it is a brick in my hand and uncomfortable, it is no good to me.

These 3 best cheap shooters are both, so much so that my SD40VE is and will most likely be my last carry weapon. And just an interesting aside, I have shot the Sig 320 and my upgraded SDVE is more comfortable and shoots even to slightly better than the factory 320.

And not a single malfunction even in the breakin period.

Doc

 

[Arik]

A couple things Arik

I have always been able to find a way to test fire a model of a gun before I buy. I would not spend that money especially a gun I would rely on for defense without doing so.. even if it has cost $10 to test.

The other thing, is that when I have found a gun I think I want, I first have to make sure that it is comfortable to shoot... one factor of which is trigger pull, then a vast selection of other factors. It could be the most reliable but if it is a brick in my hand and uncomfortable, it is no good to me.

These 3 best cheap shooters are both, so much so that my SD40VE is and will most likely be my last carry weapon. And just an interesting aside, I have shot the Sig 320 and my upgraded SDVE is more comfortable and shoots even to slightly better than the factory 320.

And not a single malfunction even in the breakin period.

Doc

I don't own a 320 but was only referencing it cause the OP did.

I've been around guns long enough to know how they shoot. I have a G22 I bought without shooting but I've owned one before. I just bought a Sig 228 but I've owned a 228 and 226 before. Bought a G17 but I've shot that before and own/carry/shoot my G19. Never shot my Springfield TRP before buying it but I have shot 1911 before. And not all guns can be rented and shot. My first S&W 3rd gen was bought 5 years ago. ....long after they stopped making them and no one has them for rent. Now, generally most guns in the same caliber and class will shoot similarly. I didn't notice a difference between my G17 and FS M&P9. They feel the same as far as actual shooting. There is no major recoil difference which is subjective anyway.

The feel in my hand doesn't concern me too much. Yes there are differences and some guns do feel vastly different but again. ...I can pick up and shoot my G17, and can go to an M&P or a Sig without really carrying about how it feels in my hand. The only ones I don't care too much for are thin single stack but if I had one I'd just get used to shooting it. When I bought my first Glock it did feel a little weird but now I don't understand why it felt that way cause when I pick it up it just fits my hand. I shot it and got used to how it felt. Most duty guns I pick up and they feel fine ...Beretta, Sig, Glock, HK....I don't feel a difference. Of course they have differences but it's not a bother to me. Best way I can explain that is if I'm driving my Toyota Corolla and go rent a van to move furniture. Different vehicle but I feel just as fine driving it.

Trigger pull does make a difference but that can be tried at the gun store. If I don't like it I just don't buy that gun.

 

[copterdrvr]

The first place to start for me when evaluating a new pistol is how it fits in my hand...

I have mediumish sized hands and that's been a huge factor in my decision making process. As an example, I can't stand any of the doublestack Glocks as they all feel like I'm holding the wrong end of a baseball bat.

My favorite pistols ALL have slender grips be they a Browning P35, 1911, CZ 75's, Series 88 Tanfoglio's, Kahr's and of course my SD9VE.

I remember picking up my first SD9-it felt like it was custom made for my hand. I also picked up a M+P9 at the same time and the grip of the SD actually fit my hand better. Picked the SD up on sale for 278 bucks.

I liked the SD so much I decided to trick it out so I purchased the Apex trigger and spring kit, recoil spring/rod and replacement sights. I have some really nice pistols but it's amazing how often the SD ends up in the shooting bag for a trip to the range.

After over 1000 rounds it still has never failed to go bang when I pulled the trigger.

 

[micocyco]

The finish is different and cheaper. The rear rails are not part of the frame, again. ..cheaper to manufacture.

I cannot afford to buy and extensively test all guns so I rely on those who can. The other guns you mentioned have a proven track record. Simply saying "it goes bang when I pull the trigger" doesn't work for me. It's too broad of a phrase. How many times? In what time frame? Under what conditions? Did anything need changing? For example, my friend considers one successful trigger pull as a sign of good or bad. So one "bang" is all you need to prove reliability. I don't see it that way and I'm sure most of you don't either. So like I said I buy what has a proven track record. After that comes the price. $275 + how much for the Apex? $39.95 for the trigger enhancement and $20.95 for spring kit. So now it's in the $325 - $350 price range. A NEW Sig 320 is only about a $100 more.

Now. I don't often buy new guns when I can get used. Most of my guns were bought in the $300 - 500 price range. All are Glocks, Sigs and HK. So.....I would rather spend an extra $100 or two for a model/brand that I know has a proven track record vs one that I dont.

So I don't really care "why should I buy Y when X is just a little bit cheaper". Is it proven? Yes! Is it affordable? Yes! That's the begging and end of my buying decision

Guess thats why the gun cases have so many different brands in so many different calibers & sizes & & prices.
3 years ago after looking on line I went to a gun show to buy a Glock this was just at the beginning of ' run on guns ' Glock 19 was $539 SD9ve was $299 I did not think of it at all as taking a chance on a cheaper pistol , I knew it was a S&W with a life time warranty. I also got 200 rounds of ammo went right to the range & 3000 rounds later I just shoot it & clean it every now & then

 

[Dr Denby]

The first place to start for me when evaluating a new pistol is how it fits in my hand...

I have mediumish sized hands and that's been a huge factor in my decision making process. As an example, I can't stand any of the doublestack Glocks as they all feel like I'm holding the wrong end of a baseball bat.

My favorite pistols ALL have slender grips be they a Browning P35, 1911, CZ 75's, Series 88 Tanfoglio's, Kahr's and of course my SD9VE.

I remember picking up my first SD9-it felt like it was custom made for my hand. I also picked up a M+P9 at the same time and the grip of the SD actually fit my hand better. Picked the SD up on sale for 278 bucks.

I liked the SD so much I decided to trick it out so I purchased the Apex trigger and spring kit, recoil spring/rod and replacement sights. I have some really nice pistols but it's amazing how often the SD ends up in the shooting bag for a trip to the range.

After over 1000 rounds it still has never failed to go bang when I pulled the trigger.

That was my experience with the feel as well. With the Apex trigger and springs, it became a beautiful gun for fit, action and accuracy, and reliability.

What was it that you did with the recoil assembly? I had found it great. Was it aesthetics decision? or had you found something lacking?

Doc

 

[copterdrvr]

Actually a combination of reasons-that made sense to me anyway!

Yes, it does "look" nicer but what's important to me is that the guide rod is made out of stainless steel-I just can't get excited about a plastic guide rod that supports a recoil spring that gets scraped over it every time the gun cycles. I've replaced the plastic guide rods in every pistol I own-that has a replacement available of course. I like the ever so slight weight increase to the front of the pistol as well.

I upped the spring weight to 20 pounds also (over the 17 lb factory) again, to satisfy my own warped mind. In MY opinion, I think it reduces the potential for frame battering especially when shooting "hotter" ammo, or high volume shooting in general. Also, in my opinion MY perceived recoil is reduced because the slide velocity has slowed more before the slide bottoms out at the rear of its movement. In my opinion, that transmits less "clunk" to the frame and the recoils seems "softer". This isn't an issue with me but I let a lot of folks shoot my SD at the range and to a man and woman, they've all commented on how "soft" the SD is to shoot as compared to other pistols they've tried. I do feel that the ergonomics of the SD has a lot to do with this as well.

I reload and even when using 115 gr loads that are at the VERY bottom of the powder range for a given recommended target load, I've never had a short stroke for FTE.

 

[GKC]

So my question is, why buy an expensive striker-fired polymer (plastic) gun, when I can get a SD9VE for $275?

In my opinion, there is no reason...but others may have different opinions.

The only thing I've found on the SD9VE that I don't really care for and can't change is the slide release. It works just fine, so it's not an issue with function...it just seems a little cheap on an otherwise well made gun. I can replace the plastic guide rod, the plastic rear sight, and the take down lever with an extended one, but the rest of the gun is as good (IMO) as more expensive polymer guns. Again, that is my opinion.

I think it's worth noting that there is a large aftermarket supply of parts for Glocks...so Glock owners must like to "improve" their guns too.

 

[Monteman1971]

I really find little difference between my Glock and my SD9. But the SD9 certainly feels better in the hand. At the range I prefer the SD9. Although there are no modifications to my Glock I did add the Apex spring kit to the SD9 which made the trigger similar to the Glock.

Both are dead nuts accurate. Both are 9mm.

 

[S&W Rover]

Thanks for all of the inputs. Most opinions focus on how good the SD9 feels and how well it shoots...

No one has questioned the quality of the SD9 or its design. Some folks have observed some individual parts that can be upgraded (e.g., plastic guide rod and the stamped slide release). This means that S&W used a few less expensive materials, design, or processes to outfit the SD9, but although these can be detected, no one seems to suggest they make the pistol any less functional. And some very expensive pistols use plastic guide rods...

No complaints on these items in the SD-9/40, though, since they contribute to the competitive price.

I've upgraded my recoil spring/plastic rod to a Galloway, not because it is necessary but because it makes me happy. I have held off on the Apex trigger because I'm okay with the pistol the way it is, want to hold costs down, and have other plans for other pistols that take precedence.

But, overall, no one has suggested any of the key components -- the striker, the barrel, the frame, the magazines, the various springs, etc., are anything less than equal to other S&W pistols -- which are first class.

I've gazed at a lot of SD9VE advertisements over the past couple of years -- my SD9 is black, and three or four years old -- but this past week I got to look at a SD9VE up close in a gun store. I still prefer the black -- wish S&W sold both black and stainless (silver colored) -- but the current model looks pretty nice.

 

[leejack]

Mine works just fine too. So did my Sigma.

 

[OKFC05]

I've had the pleasure of using S&W Sigma series pistols for classes and loaners for 20 years, and they are truly rugged and reliable.

When I decided to shoot IDPA/SSP and USPSA Production in State-level matches, I bought an M&P Pro9 5" barrel. Why?
It came all set up to run competition with all the features I like, including FO sights, 4 1/2# trigger, readily available spare parts and tech support at major matches, and the frame is somewhat heavier and stiffer with the steel insert.
About $600 for the gun, plus buying 5 magazines, mag holders, belt, Blade Tech holster, for maybe $850 total.
Compared with entry fees, travel and subsistence cost for 6 major matches a year, and ammo for matches and practice, the extra $300 for the M&P over a Sigma/SD is not so much. Particularly if you start spending money on trigger mods and new sights for the SD.

All of them ran great for their selected purpose.

 

[Edknn123]

I've got over 2000 rounds through my SD9VE and not one problem. I actually like the trigger and wouldn't think of changing it. I'm buying a gun for my son and his wife for home protection. I could use my 1st responder discount and get most any Glock, Sig, or S&W for a great price and give them my SD9VE and buy myself a more expensive firearm, but why? I like this gun so much, I plan to get them their own SD9.. Nobody's taking mine.