Question .44 Hand Eject 2nd Model Target?

[Marcruger]

Hi Folks, One for you Hand Ejector long-action experts. I am trying to help out a friend with a fine 1922 .44 Special Hand Ejector Target action issue. I am not familiar with the old actions, hence posting here.

The revolver acts fine double action. In single action cocked mode, the trigger is dangerously light, and when the hammer drops, the trigger kicks forward against the finger. It happens on four out of six chambers. The other two chambers behave normally. It will vary however.

I pulled the sideplate, cleaned it out with Gun Scrubber, flushed it with Break Free later, dried it, and lubed the bearing surfaces lightly. It cycles fine and the trigger is normal in single action with the sideplate OFF. When the sideplate reinstalled, the problems resurfaces. The hammer spring tension screw is screwed in all the way.

Any suggestions oh great gurus of the S&W boards?

Many thanks and God Bless, Marc

 

[Retired W4]

You will get more informed responses in the Smithing section of this forum with that title. Do you have "push off", that is when the hammer is cocked and you exert forward pressure on the hammer, does the hammer fall? I'm not a gun smith, but there are many here who are. Your problem could be identified in that section and, hopefully resolved. Good luck.

BTW, I have a .44 HE, 2nd model, and I love it.

 

[71firebird400]

I'm with Retired W4. This sounds like a classic case of push off and it is not long-action specific; this can happen on any revolver where the trigger sear or hammer notch is worn.

Look about half-way down this thread for how to fix the trigger end of things on a gun exhibiting push-off. If the hammer cocking notch is worn there is not much you can do beyond replacing it.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/94072-faqs.html


Furthermore; I would speculate that it happening on 4 of 6 chambers was simply luck of the draw. Outside of a very odd situation cylinder position should not impact this.

 

[Marcruger]

Many thanks folks, and thank you Moderator for relocating this to the right spot for me. Yes, I checked his gun and it does push off. If we are faced with finding a new hammer for this gun, where would be the likely spot to find a replacement? Does the 2nd Model HE have the same hammer as, say, a 1917? My concern would be to find one that is correct, and not get a bad replacement. Best wishes, and thanks again, Marc

 

[crsides]

a 1917 trigger should work. 1917 parts are not as easy to find as they once were, given the increase in gun values of late. Expect to pay around $50 for a good prewar N frame hammer.

I got one from popperts on ebay not long ago.

Charlie

 

[71firebird400]

Try dressing the trigger (per the FAQ linked above) before assuming you need any new parts. Also, be sure the notch on the hammer is very clean and that no dirt/grease has built up on it.

 

[Marcruger]

Many thanks for the suggestions. I will enlist the help of our local smith to see if we can get this old boy back in shooting form. I hope it is just a dressing that is needed. God Bless, Marc

 

[Nemo288]

If you can find a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's "The Smith & Wesson Revolver A Shop Manual",
you will be in possession of more than enough information to be dangerous if you are not a gunsmith.
Seriously, this is really good reading even if you only take off the side-plate.
It allows a thorough understanding of the interaction of all the parts and can guide those braver than I in fixing these gems.
Recommended for all S&W addicts.

===
Nemo

 

[Marcruger]

Thank you for the tip. I love that book! However, to quote Clint....."amn's got to know his limitations." ;-) Stoning the sear on someone else's expensive hammer and trigger is more than I want to attempt. I think I will refer it to the local gunsmith. Thanks again! God Bless, Marc