Question

[Cities n Dust]

I recently received a full complement of reloading gear (RCBS Rock Chucker) at no cost to me. it is basically brand new though it is about 50 years old.
My question is what does it mean when looking at a large pistol Primer box and it says #2-1/2 ? I have seen small primer boxes say Like CCI say #500 box of 1000. I do know its a box of a 1000 primers. Please keep in mind I know absolutely nothing about reloading. I'm trying to get all the essentials, Pwdr, bullets and necessary components together 1st. I will be loading 45, 44 special and magnum 38/357 as well as 9mm ect.
I have all the dies for these calibers. I've mainly asked only a few people about loading and such. Just thought I would ask here to get some insight on this.

Please move if in wrong location for this question.

THANKS

Cities

 

[gwpercle]

Do you have any printed Reloading Mamuals .
In the beginning of the manuals are Informational Chapters.
These chapters will more clearly answer your questions .
Primers can get confusing , each maker has his own code and this info will be spelled out in the Primer Chapter .
Things have gotten more complicated with some calibers being produced with Large and / or Small primers ...
I liked it better when they were all one or the other .
My advice is get 4 printed Manuals and study the first informational chapters ... My favorite are
Hornady , Speer , Lyman and the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook 4th and 3rd Editions (I cast and shoot lead and plated bullets) The data for Lead / Coated / plated bullets is different from jacketed bullets ...
Good Luck & Load Safe ,
Gary

 

[robertrwalsh]

Primers are not that hard. The numbers are just put on there and mean nothing really. The size description is what is important. Small Pistol. Large Pistol Small pistol magnum. Large pistol magnum. Small Rifle. Small rifle magnum. Large rifle. Large rifle magnum. (You can then get into match primers and other specific stuff as well.) Get a good manual and read the general information portion. I like the Lyman the best. Eventually you will end up with several manuals. That is a good thing.

 

[Just another 22 shooter]

If know someone who has been reloading for some time, see if they would be willing to mentor you. But DO get your hands on a couple of manuals and soak in the first few chapters.

 

[TIMETRIPPER]

The numbers usually designate the specific type of primer. Each manufacturer uses their own code. The main difference, as stated by others, is in primer size, as in small rifle or pistol, and large rifle or pistol. There are also different varieties of each particular size. For example, a manufacturer will have different numbers for small rifle primers to designate between regular, magnum and bench rest primers.

John

 

[Beancounter81]

My question is what does it mean when looking at a large pistol Primer box and it says #2-1/2 ? I have seen small primer boxes say Like CCI say #500 box of 1000. I do know its a box of a 1000 primers.

To answer this specific question, each primer company has their own numbering system for primers. For large pistol, CCI uses 300, Federal uses 150, Remington uses 2-1/2 and Winchester denotes theirs as WLP. I'm less familiar with what the various foreign primer manufacturers use.

 

[WR Moore]

OK, Beancounter8 got it, the numbers you're seeing are product IDs from the manufacturers. If you don't already have them, Buy some reloading manuals. Also, I believe the NRA has some material on reloading.

Besides signaling primer size, the numbers can ID standard primers, magnum primers (harder cups, hotter fire), match primers and mil-spec primers (harder cups). Almost forgot "green" non-toxic primers.

 

[imakmst]

And for additional emphasis: Get some reloading manuals.
And get ready to reload so you can shoot and shoot so you can reload.

 

[Cities n Dust]

THX to all who replied!!!

I read in the past that a specific Loading manual was a must, but coming up empty on the search.
I think Lyman number 46th edition? Or something like that?

 

[mtgianni]

Any of the Lyman manuals are good. I have 39, 41, 45, 46, 47, 48, and 50. I would check out Abe Books or a similar used book store for older manuals. If I were just buying one, it would be the current one. IIRC, 48 is available as a download.

 

[WR Moore]

Midwayusa or Grafs.com will have a slew of manuals.

 

[gwpercle]

THX to all who replied!!!

I read in the past that a specific Loading manual was a must, but coming up empty on the search.
I think Lyman number 46th edition? Or something like that?

Get the newest edition of any manual first ...
It will have data for new powders .
Nothing special about Lyman #46 , published in 1982 ...a lot of things have changed ... get a newer #50 or #51 edition for now and keep an eye out for the older #46 ...
some of the powders in #46 may not be available any longer .
Gary

 

[Dave Haynes]

I'd first suggest buying one of the Lee hand primers. The RCBS in tube priming systems suck out loud and you'll wreck a lot of primers using them. The Lee machine comes with both sizes of primer trays that turn over the primers into proper orientation to go into the prepped cases. The original round model and the "Improved" triangled model both work well, I prefer the old model. you will need to buy the appropriate shell holder for the priming machine and it will not work as a die shell holder. These items are good and not expensive. Buy or use the best powder scale (10--10) do not buy or use the electronic scales as they can cause serious mistakes. Use a bullet board and inspect each charged case after placing powder. It isn't dangerous but a double charge of Bullseye can blow up a revolver. You will get over 1000 shots from a 1 lb can of B.E. Almost all commercial made 38, 45 9mm will be made using B.E. or an equivalent fast powder. Older manuals will usually charge a bit hotter than new manuals (Lawyers). New manuals will sometimes not show data for these older powders like Unique, Bullseye, Red Dot, Green Dot. Some IMR powders like 4895 can be used for many many different calibers. Limit lead bullets to under 1000 fps. You will wreck a lot of cases and bullets while you learn from your mistakes. For shotgun trap loads a MEC Grabber is the absolute cat's meow. A 25 round box in less than 10 minutes. Powders have a long shelf life..

 

[JP@AK]

Cities n Dust

I started handloading when I was 13 years old. I'm 75 now. The advice you received here to get one or more good handloading manuals is excellent. I have lost track of the number of manuals I have bought over the years, but it's a bunch and I still have all of them.

The advice I'd give is to start with the latest Hornady handbook. The reason is that the front part of the book gives detailed information on the basics of handloading. Hornady's coverage of the basics is second to none. Read through that carefully and then read it again. That will get you started on the right foot. Then you can add a few more manuals for comparison purposes.

One other bit of important advice is that you should NEVER start with anything listed in any manual as the maximum load. ALWAYS start with a lighter load and work up with each gun you are loading for. Also, you should never load a cartridge BELOW the minimum load listed.

Best of luck in your new endeavor.

 

[Reloader Fred]

I started reloading in 1963, and currently load for 35 different calibers. Some more than others. You've been given some good advice, especially concerning written manuals. The information in those manuals has been tested over time and for the most part are geared towards the novice reloader, which you are. I always recommend the latest Lyman manuals, simply because they aren't restricted to one brand of bullet, and the information sections on reloading are thorough, plus it gives loading data for cast bullets.

Read everything you can about reloading before putting powder in a case and a bullet on top. Keep in mind that whatever you put together will be tested in your hand, so use well established published loads from reputable sources. I've seen some loads recommended on the internet that make me shiver just thinking that someone is actually going to shoot them. Don't go below suggested starting loads in most cases, or you may stick a bullet in the barrel. Approach maximum loads slowly. Firearms differ, so a load tested safe in one firearm may not necessarily be safe in another. Kind of like one car runs fine on regular gas, while another chokes on it.

Check each step, and then check it again. A small flashlight on your bench can be an invaluable tool for checking cases for powder charges once placed in a loading block. Seating primers is very important. Primers must be seated below flush with the case head, preferably about .004" below flush. Primers are designed to seat the anvil into the propellant charge at the proper distance when the primer is seated properly. Primer seating is where I see most reloaders having problems, so pay close attention to that step once you get started. Keep written records of your loads, and mark whatever container you use for your loads as to what the load is, the date it was loaded, etc. If you have a problem with a particular batch, you'll want to know where the rest of them are, and what's in them.

The Rockchucker is an excellent press for both the beginner and advanced reloader. I did wear one out, but that's rare, and RCBS replaced it for free about 20 years ago. I currently have four presses on my reloading bench, but the Rockchucker gets the most use, simply because it's so versatile.

Hope this helps.

Fred

 

[NW Montana]

My current go-to manual is: Modern Reloading - Second Edition by Richard Lee. It covers the how-to basics very well and covers most powders, both older types and modern ones. It has loading data for a host of cartridges. I also cross-reference with the Lyman 50th Edition downloaded to my phone and tablet. Having a digital version is handy for resolving "discussions" among friends at the range or lunch.

Your RCBS equipment is good for another 50 years at least. I agree with the commenter who said that having a separate hand priming device is far superior to using the 'Chucker's priming system.

Old words of advice : always double check your powder level in your cases before placing and seating bullets.

Just some of the manuals I have accrued since I started reloading in 1972.

The major powder manufacturers have on-line loading guides for their powders. These are updated as new powders are released.

Relax and enjoy your new hobby.

 

[Rule3]

Remington Large Pistol Primers are marked #2.5

 

[oldman10mm]

 

[oldman10mm]

Since it appears you'll only be reloading 9mm, 38/357, 44sp/44M, 45, you'll only have to contend with the upper 28 lines of the burn rate chart.

 

[richrd]

If you are anywhere around Arkansas or Nebraska I could arrange a sit down session at your bench to answer your questions. Or there may be others near by to help.