Questions on refinishing stocks

[26betsam]

Greetings,
My last post was "My latest acquisition" And the revolver came with the incorrect stocks. I just got a correct set of stocks (Silver Medallion) but they looked in a lot better condition on Ebay than what arrived in the mail. Wouldn't make that much of a difference if the revolver they were going on wasn't in such nice condition. Sox drawer revolver with working gun set of stocks.
The question is how difficult is it to "refresh" a set of stocks? No chips or deep scratches but the parts of the checkering are flattened. Your opinion or is it better to keep an eye out for a better set and sell these.
For those that are interested the stamped serial number on the stocks is 726546
Thanks in advance

 

[Gun Relics]

Greetings,
My last post was "My latest acquisition" And the revolver came with the incorrect stocks. I just got a correct set of stocks (Silver Medallion) but they looked in a lot better condition on Ebay than what arrived in the mail. Wouldn't make that much of a difference if the revolver they were going on wasn't in such nice condition. Sox drawer revolver with working gun set of stocks.
The question is how difficult is it to "refresh" a set of stocks? No chips or deep scratches but the parts of the checkering are flattened. Your opinion or is it better to keep an eye out for a better set and sell these.
For those that are interested the stamped serial number on the stocks is 726546
Thanks in advance

I'm interested in what other members say too,

In my experience, unless you have the skill set, a light touch and an expensive set of proper tools, best to leave the checkering refresh to the pros. You can easily ruin the grips, which then is known as the "full bubba".

To simply refinish the grips, you will have satisfactory results stripping with a chemical stripper, lightly sanding and light stain and/or satin clear coat.

 

[MelvinWalker]

I have often wondered how checkering was recut and it would interest me to try my own skills, (or more likely LACK thereof), in refinishing a test set of cheap common magnas, but I wouldn't even know where to begin.

 

[glowe]

Nobody can just pick up a set of checkering tools and recut checkering without many hours of practice. There are so many idiosyncrasies that one must encounter before working on something that cannot be "fixed" if messed up. There are people on this Forum who can recut checkering.

As for the refinish part. I can only tell you how I do the work. After stripping and fine sanding the smooth surfaces, I dilute a small amount of Tru-Oil with paint thinner and apply to the stocks, let it soak in and using compressed air blow out the excess from the checkering before curing. I then apply two coats from the bottle with my finger to the smooth surfaces and let cure. Do not apply any more finish to the checkering. I then use steel wool to take off the luster since factory stocks were satin finish, not gloss. I use no stain and do not believe that the factory stained their walnut either? An example is below.

Last item is that I use a Q-tip dipped in Acetone to wipe down the medallion.

 

[spin132]

Nobody can just pick up a set of checkering tools and recut checkering without many hours of practice. There are so many idiosyncrasies that one must encounter before working on something that cannot be "fixed" if messed up. There are people on this Forum who can recut checkering.

As for the refinish part. I can only tell you how I do the work. After stripping and fine sanding the smooth surfaces, I dilute a small amount of Tru-Oil with paint thinner and apply to the stocks, let it soak in and using compressed air blow out the excess from the checkering before curing. I then apply two coats from the bottle with my finger to the smooth surfaces and let cure. Do not apply any more finish to the checkering. I then use steel wool to take off the luster since factory stocks were satin finish, not gloss. I use no stain and do not believe that the factory stained their walnut either? An example is below.

Last item is that I use a Q-tip dipped in Acetone to wipe down the medallion.

View attachment 771176

Nice work Gary, those look fantastic! Never thought of the air compressor trick, I always tape off checkered area with painter's tape. Your method sounds much easier!

Mike

 

[H Richard]

I do the same as Gary does, but have found that I prefer hand rubbing with Mothers Mag Polish to "satin finish" the stocks verses rubbing out with steel wool.

 

[mikepriwer]

IF i were you, and you have the option, return the stocks and look for a good pair.

Mike Priwer

 

[26betsam]

Did, found a much better pair. I'll flog these. Education is $$ but, one learns from mistakes.

 

[Denverd0n]

Related question...

On an otherwise completely original revolver, would it lower the value to refinish the stocks? Or should they be left completely original also?

 

[glowe]

Depends on condition of the revolver. Well used revolvers should not have pristine stocks. If the gun is 90% or better, then cleaned up or if necessary, refinished stocks are icing on the cake IF they look factory!

 

[Spurdann]

Related question...

On an otherwise completely original revolver, would it lower the value to refinish the stocks? Or should they be left completely original also?

I would imagine than if the gun is original then the wear on the stocks would be similar to the wear on the gun. That being said “improving” the stocks would impact the value as a reblue would.

 

[quinn]

Excellent info. So, who on this forum is reworking checkering?